I may not be thinking about this right but, if 10% of the trailer load is on the tung and the loaded trailer is 6000 pounds. Then it's 600 lbs on the hitch. Would you let 3 of you buddies sit on the tailgate or stand on the bumper if the truck had a c notch.
If it's slammed all the way you might need air bags to bring it back up when loaded or 3/4 ton / over load springs
Chris, I'd do the flip kit without the shackles, to keep the truck with a little rake. forgo the c-notch, add some progressive bump stops, and some air helper springs...then you can tow/haul to the truck's original weight rating. http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/ener...dword&gclid=Cj 0KEQjwlNy8BRC676-W0JezxbwBEiQA4Ydg0Xz_IP7DIl3Gd_T6AfciBml_pm1MKLaF0 _Ug6uJ1QPwaApv98P8HAQ
I may not be thinking about this right but, if 10% of the trailer load is on the tung and the loaded trailer is 6000 pounds. Then it's 600 lbs on the hitch. Would you let 3 of you buddies sit on the tailgate or stand on the bumper if the truck had a c notch.
If I'm concerned about the scenario above (and the question is: should I be?) I certainly shouldn't trust it while hauling 6000 pounds down the road. At a minimum I think I'd weld a plate on the open side of the frame rail at the "C" for extra insurance. Thanks for the input.
Chris, I'd do the flip kit without the shackles, to keep the truck with a little rake. forgo the c-notch, add some progressive bump stops, and some air helper springs...then you can tow/haul to the truck's original weight rating. [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1115765[/ATTACH] http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/ener...dword&gclid=Cj 0KEQjwlNy8BRC676-W0JezxbwBEiQA4Ydg0Xz_IP7DIl3Gd_T6AfciBml_pm1MKLaF0 _Ug6uJ1QPwaApv98P8HAQ
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1115772[/ATTACH] http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index....5d3ccd8db86684
That approach is probably more sensible. If I use the air helpers, maybe I can loose a leaf or 2 to get a little extra drop and a softer ride when empty. Thanks,
So last time I went to drive the truck, it would not move because the transmission leaked out too much fluid. Today I finally had some time to work on it so instead of working on the transmission leak, I swapped out the grill. We picked these up yesterday:
Last weekend we picked up the grill, headlight buckets and turn signal lights from a 75-78 GMC. We were hoping to install the original style 73-74 grille pictured above but the hood latch bracket and the mounting brackets for that year are different from 75-80. I'll chase those down eventually. In the mean time we have this:
I'd like to say that I have accomplished great things on the truck but all I've really done is buy a receiver hitch (not installed), a stereo and speakers (Cyber Monday deals - also not installed yet) and a 73-74 core support. I got the core support for the brackets to mount the 73-74 grille I scored with the tube grill. I paid almost as much for the core support as it would have cost for a set of repro brackets but I was planning on using all the mounting holes for the grille. This will make sense (hopefully) as we progress through the pics.
This is the picture of the brackets not included in any kit I could find. The Chevy grille I have mounts on the tabs that do not have the plastic inserts. I am guessing that the other bolt on brackets are for a GMC grille.
Here are all the bolt on brackets harvested from the support. The 2 on the left are likely for the GMC grille and the 3 on the right are what you get with the aftermarket kit that runs $75-$90. My Chevy grille also required me to move the plastic insert in the center support to the lower hole.
After this I spent a bit of time removing the other brackets that are actually part of the support with the thought of making them a bolt in type. After I got them off an looked at what it would take I decided to save them for later (if needed) and just use the bolt on brackets.
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