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74 NovaMan's 1979 Chevy Truck - LS Swap - 5/6 Drop

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    need new project for 'unloved' motor you're welcome
    I had actually though of that. The Caddy is next up though and I don't have room for everything I have. Maybe I can trade the 5.3 for lumber to build more garage!

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    need new project for 'unloved' motor you're welcome

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    My plan when I bought the junk yard motor was to run it for a while then swap it out for the rebuilt one at a later date - selling the JY motor to recoup some $. If I was on track with that plan the truck would have the new motor in it and the one in the truck would already be sold. As it is now, the motor in the truck seems to be running very well. It has 60lbs of oil pressure and probably enough HP & torque for what I want it to do. This has me wondering what I should do with the rebuilt mill after assembly. We've tossed around the idea of using it in the Caddy but we are not sure that is the right choice. We've got time to make that decision though as the soonest we would start blowing the Caddy apart is next year in July (after the 50's weekend). The Nova is also another option, but that runs so well and is so generally "right" I really don't want to mess with it that way.

    Stopped at the frame shop yesterday and he is confident it can be fixed. Unfortunately, he is crazy busy and doesn't know when he can get to it. I am hoping for sometime before spring. My new front springs showed up a couple of days ago so that is this weekends project. Stay tuned for revised ride height pictures.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    And then we get to the scary number. The 5.3 rebuild cost for the motor that is not assembled:
    5.3 LS REBUILD
    260.41 Cam Swap
    299.47 Gaskets, Oil Pump, Timing Chain
    156.86 Crank - Polish & Bearings (Crankshaft Supply )
    465.29 Rods Scat - 2-350-6125-2100
    476.21 Pistons Forged .005 over
    98.92 Piston rings
    176.59 Head Bolts (ARP 134-3609)
    126.52 Intake Valves - Summit
    27.81 Cam Bearings
    73.81 Knock Sensors
    49.23 Knock Sensor Harness
    81.53 Head Gaskets Felpro
    210.99 Lifters
    238.42 Rockers
    664.27 Balancing, honing, cam bearing install, block prep
    550.00 Heads - Machine work - and clean misc parts
    3,956.32 LS Rebuild Cost on Motor Not Used

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Here is the LS Swap breakdown:
    79 CHEVY TRUCK - LS SWAP ITEMS
    1,050.00 Donor - 2003 Suburban
    (1,782.00) Parts Sales - 2003 Suburban & 79 C10 only
    328.64 LS Swap Headers
    490.00 Fuel System - Tank, pump, lines, filter etc
    306.00 LS Motor mounts, crossmember & ECM bracket
    245.00 Second LS Motor mounts & crossmember
    322.25 Fans, shroud & wiring
    271.70 Water pump, idler relo, hoses, belts
    343.00 Junkyard 5.3
    761.29 Drive Shaft
    690.56 Misc LS Swap - See Separate List
    3,026.44 LS Swap Total
    Breakdown of the Misc $690.56:
    Misc LS Swap Items
    107.57 Wire for harness rework
    24.31 Temp sensor 12551708, tx111 or tu280 (3 Mfgs)
    13.73 pigtail - pt2139, s619 or 1p1065
    28.40 Oil Pressure sensor - AC Delco19244932
    7.38 Weather Pack connector
    15.83 Fuse/relay box
    25.00 Battery tray bracket - drivers side OE type - reuse tray
    54.01 O2 Bungs and welding
    89.65 Relay/fuse box, oil & temp senders, connectors
    71.00 Gas Pedal
    58.00 Air intake tube and elbows
    93.00 Instrument Cluster 1990
    52.88 Oil Pressure Sensor, Brake switch, Steam Port Fitting
    25.00 Relays - Bosch - Amazon
    10.85 Evap Delete - Ebay
    13.95 metric adapter - Autometer 2268
    690.56 Total

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Thanks for the feedback guys. I spent some time with my project spreadsheet yesterday categorizing the different expenses and came up with some interesting results. The first stage is just general truck costs that would have been incurred if I had not LS Swapped it:
    79 CHEVY TRUCK - NON LS SPECIFIC ITEMS
    2,775.50 Purchase Price incl Tax Titile & License
    611.85 Misc Parts, Tune up, Grille, Mirrors, Radio
    208.59 Rear Bumper
    105.00 Tilt Column & Seats
    197.89 HVAC Rebuild
    72.31 Inner Fender & bolt kit
    600.38 Brakes & Front End Rebuild
    641.76 Tires
    811.80 Lowering spindles/springs & Flip kit
    172.82 Body Mounts
    168.14 Shocks front & rear
    110.00 Sway bar front
    1,168.87 Posi, Gears & Bearing kit
    1,272.27 Dual Exhaust
    750.00 Trans Rebuild
    9,667.18 Truck Total

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  • DirtyWhiteBoy
    replied
    I really like this project, however it has convinced me NOT to go LS in mine just yet.

    I'll save my LS virginity for phase 2

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by milner351 View Post
    this is a great build thread with allot of great information on parts that work and went together smoothly. I'm personally not a big fan of super low vehicles, mostly because I've lived in the midwest my whole life and our roads are generally crap, so - lowered usually means fixing broken stuff.... ALOT. I hope you find the happy medium for this truck so it will fullfill your styling desires as well as retaining the utility of the truck. I really like the idea of air bags on the rear - that allows you to keep it lower than stock, but pump up the air and still tow safely, makes a lot of sense to me.
    move? or, to quote a former great contributor... Samsonite?

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  • milner351
    replied
    this is a great build thread with allot of great information on parts that work and went together smoothly. I'm personally not a big fan of super low vehicles, mostly because I've lived in the midwest my whole life and our roads are generally crap, so - lowered usually means fixing broken stuff.... ALOT. I hope you find the happy medium for this truck so it will fullfill your styling desires as well as retaining the utility of the truck. I really like the idea of air bags on the rear - that allows you to keep it lower than stock, but pump up the air and still tow safely, makes a lot of sense to me.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Yes, they CAN be too low. Truck hits the bump stops on one particular lump in the pavement here in town but is fine nearly everywhere else so I live with it - he has a Belltech lowering kit.

    Dan

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    After that, I need to get it to the frame shop and then back in for alignment.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    The trim adjustment worked OK but left the center area pretty weak. On the other side I left more material and folded it over to give it some decent structure. I took it around the block and the adjustment seemed to work pretty well. Yesterday, I drove it to work (70 miles round trip). It worked well, but I did manage to bottom out on a stretch of pretty smooth freeway. I have come to the conclusion that it is just a bit too low as I want to drive it a lot and not worry about every tiny bump. I ordered some new springs that should get me 1 - 1 1/2 inches. I hope to get them installed this weekend. The truck at work:

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    The drive home was considerably less loud but I did bottom out on a couple of bumps on the way. The shop also could not align the front end due to the insufficient fender clearance. The passenger side was particularly bad. The tire was actually bending the trim and fender lip out when turning. A few observations:
    • The body appears to be shifted slightly to the passenger side (I might pick up 1/2 inch on the passenger side if I can move everything - anything gained here will of course be lost on the other side)
    • A-Arms are 2 - 2 1/2 inches off the pavement (oddly enough, my floor jack fits under the crossmember)
    • Tires tend to contact the fender lip and inner fender when turning or under compression
    • The rear is about 2 inches higher than the front (measured at the fender lip)
    Step one was rolling the fender lip and trimming the wheel opening trim. Marked the center and 6 inches on either side and removed trim:

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    I started to tip the flange in with an adjustable wrench. From there I taped a thick piece of plywood to the outer fender and eased the flange in with a pair of channel locks:

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    I had drilled 2 new mounting holes for the trim just outside of the planned crimp area before I removed it. Next, I trimmed the wheel opening trim:

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    It's fully welded but I had them add flanges right before the axle in case I need to remove bits of it later for service. Here it is on the ground at home:

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Dropped it off last week Monday for the dual exhaust install. 2 1/2" pipes all the way back:

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