The good news is that I did not break off any extractors in the bolt. The bad news is that the bolt remnants are still in there and it looks like I hit the threads with the drill bit.
That head will have to come off and go to the machinist.
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74 NovaMan's 1979 Chevy Truck - LS Swap - 5/6 Drop
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Ah....there we go.
Rats, I was hoping to learn a new craigslist trick. Happy selling!
And the truck project is a neat thread, thanks for sharing. Nice work as always.
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Originally posted by STINEY View PostChris, I'm not being a wise-acre here.....but how are guys calling or texting you from your Craigslist ad? I see no number?
You seem to have good luck selling stuff and I just want to make sure I'm not missing something?
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Stiney hit the reply button at the top left, it gives you all the info
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Chris, I'm not being a wise-acre here.....but how are guys calling or texting you from your Craigslist ad? I see no number?
You seem to have good luck selling stuff and I just want to make sure I'm not missing something?
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Found some more stuff in the garage to sell. This one is easily shipped if anyone has a need:
Could ship this batch of shifter stuff as well:
Craigslist ad: https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/w...111559670.html
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We did have some visible progress on the truck yesterday. Bumper mounting brackets and license plate bracket with new light installed:
Bumper after some light sledge hammer work:
Brackets loosely installed (Rock Auto had the best price on these by far)
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Finished product:
Now we need to mount the receiver:
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Sold a 200r4 this weekend for $150. Got one of the exhaust manifold bolts out using a wire feed welder. The first one came out OK. The other, I could not get a solid weld on and only made a mess out of the head surface.
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I tried to tape a washer to the head to protect it from my bad welding attempts but that did not work either.
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A lot of the problem is operator error on the welders part. I can't see anything until a couple of seconds after the arc starts so I'm flying blind and making a mess. I'll pick up some extractors tomorrow and see if that will work.Last edited by 74NovaMan; April 30, 2017, 05:01 PM.
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I ordered some stuff today:
Motor Mounts
Trans X-member
ECM Bracket
Fuel Pump - WALBRO GSS341
Fuel Tank -87 GM Truck - 20 gallon
Fuel pickup assembly - 87 GM Truck
Lower Hose - Gates 22437
Belt - Gates K061015
Upper Hose - Gates 23080
Battery tray bracket - drivers side OE type - RA
Hedman HuslerŪ LS Engine Swap Headers 45660
Header Bolts - ARP 134-1102
Percy's Seal-4-Good Header Gaskets 66032
Gaskets - Oil Pan, Timing Cover, intake, throttle body, valve covers, rear main
Oil pump
Timing chain set
Spark plugs
Wires
Oil filters
We are hoping to get the motor & trans separated this weekend and get the motor on the stand. Total project (LS Swap) spend to date is about $1,100 factoring in $1,700 in parts sales (donor parts sales and garage cleanup combined). The big items left are the transmission rebuild, driveshaft, tuning and exhaust (which is arguably not swap related now that the headers have been purchased).Last edited by 74NovaMan; April 30, 2017, 04:59 PM.
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Thanks for the ideas guys. Sold 2 motors we had taking up space in the garage. One had been there almost 15 years. The other was the one was from the Tahoe swap 6+ years ago (rod knock). $350 more for the cause.
Edit: As it turns out, the crate motor had 3 spun mains I did not know about. $ above adjusted accordingly.Last edited by 74NovaMan; April 26, 2017, 11:36 AM.
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Originally posted by dieselhead View Post
I've never gotten a broken bolt out with a so called "easy out", broke every one of them. Buy a square tapered bolt extractor and it will work.
In a pinch, I sharpened the tang on a big file and used that after shortening it..Last edited by Deaf Bob; April 26, 2017, 10:40 PM.
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I had to pull several of those out in my H3 - aluminum head/aluminum block - and I was not looking forward to it at all. That said, it was probably the easiest extractions that I've ever done. Hold the nut over the top, mig weld the nut to the stud (it won't adhere to the aluminum), let it heatsoak for at least 10s then remove. There were 3 or 4 and all came out at just - over hand tight. The problem with those bolts was the metallurgy - they were too brittle so they popped apart under heat cycle. It's not the traditional steel-adhering to steel breakage, but simply failure of the material. Easy job. Not need for an easy-out
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Originally posted by 74NovaMan View PostI'm guessing that in the original attempt to remove the bolts (not by me) they were very close to snapping at either spot and my gentle persuasion just finished the job. Now I need to get out the drill bits and easy outs (why do the call them that anyway, they almost never work and its almost never easy). I am really hoping I don't have to pull the heads and bring this one in for repairs.
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