ya know, in Car Craft this month they talked about an interesting issue where there was enough corrosion on the neutral safety switch that the started didn't get enough juice to start.... that said, I expect there would have been clicking rather then an open circuit
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Good Grief! "Charlie Brown" 1972 Buick Skylark Custom convertible
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Get some jumper wires and a couple toggle switches and a push button. I did this for my 79 capri when I had trouble with it starting, come to find out the wiring harness for the reverse / neutral safety was mangled. Fixed the wires and install the stock switch.
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When I bought my 84 C10 about 4.5 years ago, it came with a starter button rigged in the dash. Eventually, I troubleshot it - after changing the ignition switch and that not helping. Turns out the heavy purple wire that goes down to the starter was clamped between the block and the bell housing and had a high resistance short. Not a direct short, or shit would have smoked when I turned the key, but enough of a short that all the lights would dim and the battery voltage would drop a couple volts when the key was turned to "start".
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Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostThe purple wire from the ignition switch goes through the neutral safety switch, then to the starter. Get out your test light, see where electricity stops.
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Originally posted by Turbo Regal View Post
I've been travelling a lot lately with my job. I'm going to get it up on jack stands this weekend and start testing from the starter back to the column.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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The wiring should be pretty straight forward to troubleshoot. If you don't want a surprise cranking disconnect the S-terminal wire from the starter, otherwise, just make sure no one is under the hood while you are checking and prepare to hit your head if the engine suddenly cranks Then go under the dash with a test light and check for power going into the switch (should be at least one constant hot wire) and a few of them should then light up when the key is turned to "ON", and then the purple wire should light up when the key is turned to "crank". If the purple wire lights up the test light when the key is turned to "crank" then you know the issue is passed that (such as neutral safety switch, or broken wire). If it doesn't light up then there is something wrong with the switch or installation of the switch.Last edited by TheSilverBuick; February 26, 2016, 01:59 PM.Escaped on a technicality.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostIt really sounds like an adjustment issue. But without looking, that's about my only guess (or a wire got knocked off)
The new switch also fixed my "alternator light won't go out" problem as well. Which was great because it was 70 degrees out on Sunday so down went the top! Here's a pic with my helper, Ryan.
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They call it water here in Nevada, but it's really more like liquid mineral, I'm surprised we don't have the highest instances of kidney and gallstones in the country. Vinegar seems to work pretty well, just soak a paper towel and apply liberally, or just plaster the towel to the window if you have to, when you scrub and rinse be sure to use distilled, or at least softened, water or all your hard work will be for naught.
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I'd try hauen's method first but if that doesn't git 'er done a buddy who washes windows as a side job has a once-and-for-all cure when nothing else works (it'll sound familiar). Mask off the surrounding area REALLY WELL (plastic sheet is a good thing to use) and apply Easy-Off oven cleaner. Use the old stuff (I think it's labeled "heavy duty") and use it according to the label instructions. It'll tell you how long to let it sit, etc. Buddy Dave says he has yet to see it fail.
Just an FYI - ME's windshield on the HHR had gotten stone pecked to the point that it looked sandblasted. I tried several cures but eventually we just had it replaced. Glass (at least for common vehicles) has come down in price from the olden days - I think hers was $150ish installed.
DanLast edited by DanStokes; March 5, 2016, 08:13 PM.
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