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  • My Green Machine (98 K2500 Suburban)

    I finally found, got to in time, and bought another vehicle so I have something to take if need be and we can haul more than 2 kids. ASSUMING the 4x4 I forgot to test yesterday works when I pick it up and pay for it tonight I'll be bringing it home to park in the driveway for most days till I need it (max 1 day a week to work if that). Click image for larger version

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    Green and Tan 1998 Chevy K2500 Suburban LS with a 454 and 4L80E. 180K miles and a salvage title due to someone vandalizing it with spray paint (since cleaned up). Picked it up for $2000. Here's the Craigslist advert for as long as that lasts and till I can get pictures of my own up: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5542202938.html. Tires are pretty decent, AC works, brakes act like they need a good work out and a fluid flush, interior is in great shape except for the drivers buns (big surprise, it take the most abuse), and the one thing that needs to be fixed soon is the interior door handle on the drivers door has snapped. Good news is that all of that is either ignorable or easy to fix.

    Priorities:
    1. Fix that door handle ASAP so I don't have to roll the window down to get out of the truck.
    2. Flush the brakes to see what else I need to do to the brake system
    3. Replace the fuel filter
    4. Full tune up (question on what that consists of)
    5. Run some Sea Foam through it then replace the rest of the fluids
    6. Polish the headlights
    7. Oil the door hinges, seat hinges, window tracks

    So as mentioned in #4, what does a full tune up consist of? Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter, and PCV I think are givens but do I need to coil, O2 sensors, or anything else? Maintenance history is a total unknown but the vehicle seems like it was well cared for so I'm not expecting any huge deferred maintenance issues but the idea of changing the trans fluid does make me nervous. Advice?

    Thanks and pictures probably tomorrow.
    Barry Donovan likes this.
    Central TEXAS Sleeper
    USAF Physicist

    ROA# 9790

  • #2
    Ahh, ya finally got one! Looks nice.
    ...

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    • #3
      get the caster camber bolt kit before you get an alignment...I see tons of front end issues on this generation.....especially when it comes to getting an alignment....most customers refuse to spend the money for the kit and install and end up with a bad alignment..........Also, if you get any check engine lights and a code points to a lean issue...more often than not it is a fuel pump. I've seen 4 in the last 6 months...same code...same problem...
      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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      • #4
        Thanks for the tip on the lean issues and the camber bolts. Right now it feels a bit under powered but the Carfax shows it was serviced by an area dealer up until 1yr/2K miles ago so I'm going to call for the records.

        Needs some interior work that I didn't spot before, the latches that hold the gap panels that go between the middle row and the back are busted so I'll need to fix those. It also needs a good cleaning as well on the inside.
        Central TEXAS Sleeper
        USAF Physicist

        ROA# 9790

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        • #5
          That's a lot of truck for the money hope it serves you well!
          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation

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          • #6
            Good deal. looks like a nice truck. It should last quite a bit longer.
            Tom
            Overdrive is overrated


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            • #7
              Registration appointment for Friday and maybe pictures of the Green Machine and Riviera progress tonight. My oldest son is already excited about driving it to church on Sunday.
              Central TEXAS Sleeper
              USAF Physicist

              ROA# 9790

              Comment


              • #8
                Wow. You got a full fledged Soccer Mom Assault Vehicle just like Chad!!

                Don't be in such a hurry to fix the door handle. You can impress your clients with your acrobatic skills falling out of the window.
                BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                Resident Instigator

                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
                  get the caster camber bolt kit before you get an alignment...I see tons of front end issues on this generation.....especially when it comes to getting an alignment....most customers refuse to spend the money for the kit and install and end up with a bad alignment..........Also, if you get any check engine lights and a code points to a lean issue...more often than not it is a fuel pump. I've seen 4 in the last 6 months...same code...same problem...
                  that is another generation..
                  the torsion can drive with no balljoints at all.

                  altho check the lower balljoints..
                  that is the monster for these.
                  nothing else. these are so tight, replacing balljoints does not need an alignment.
                  it is the only weak spot..the lower.

                  3/4 ton hefty can gain a twist in the rails under the b-pillar..easy to check by eyesight form the front.
                  big torsion.
                  unless it was in an accident... any old error can happen then.

                  if you get a cheap scanner like ms609 by autel, you can even monitor live data, and of course reset and gain codes.
                  factory plug wires are terrible..ebay has 8.5mm but not equal length. You'd have to build those yourself.
                  this vortec LOVES equal length. Even cools the ECU.

                  3 front o2 sensors are very important, the fourth one in back of the cat triggers a cat code.
                  they always kick a code if broken..the ecu is right on the money.

                  the third sensor (1 in front of cat) responds to a fast timing modern sensor, reduces ramp time (final trim power added - Horsepower is the word). Factory 98 is a slow third sensor.

                  the 454 responds to a throttle body riser..but it costs.

                  the electric solenoid for engaging 4x4.. that should be your 98. That is another monster for this one... you can revert to old school.


                  and flowmaster 50 suv or HD or big block muffler.

                  another modern change is replacing fuel pump. a new one it will not be like your 1998...updated in the mid 2000s for the whole planet.
                  Last edited by Barry Donovan; April 20, 2016, 07:54 PM.
                  Previously boxer3main
                  the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                    Wow. You got a full fledged Soccer Mom Assault Vehicle just like Chad!!

                    Don't be in such a hurry to fix the door handle. You can impress your clients with your acrobatic skills falling out of the window.
                    Right!

                    The problem with getting used to rolling the window down to get out is you'll do the same thing in your cars with working door handles without thinking about it. Impressive, but awkward.

                    Man, you tossed economy out the window, huh? That should haul the family and a 35 foot trailer though the woods pretty easily. Nice!
                    Last edited by Beagle; April 21, 2016, 04:18 AM.
                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                    • #11
                      The door handles are an issue on these as well...I sell 4 to 5 a month easy....Don't by Dorman replacements...they are total crap. if you can, spring for the OE part if it can be found. I've had to send back a few to the manufacturer because they break in the freaking box....
                      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
                        The door handles are an issue on these as well...I sell 4 to 5 a month easy....Don't by Dorman replacements...they are total crap. if you can, spring for the OE part if it can be found. I've had to send back a few to the manufacturer because they break in the freaking box....
                        That's troubling. Its just the plastic handle bit that's broken, the mechanism seems fine. At Autozone the handle (Dorman brand) is the same cost as the whole mechanism! On Rock Auto, the handle is only $7 vs the $25 for the whole deal. However you're saying get an AC Delco (or dealer) unit if I want it to hold up?

                        As for the comment on economy, its job is to do things we don't need to do frequently. Fuel economy for something that does 15mi-40mi a month isn't terribly important but we are debating whether we take it or rent a econocrapbox for our trip to Yosemite next month. Time will tell

                        Does anyone know where the blasted SPID tag is supposed to be? Its not in the glove box or under the lid of the jack compartment either.
                        Central TEXAS Sleeper
                        USAF Physicist

                        ROA# 9790

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                        • #13
                          I would bite the proverbial bullet and get the AC Delco part if possible. The Dorman handles are Chinese and terribly made. That goes for all of them...not just the GM specific bits. I've become terribly disappointed in the quality of Dorman parts as a whole since I started selling them....the price point is great....quality...meh, not so much.
                          If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            As much as I don't want to buy things more than once... You can buy a lot of Dorman handles for the cost of a dealer handle ($83).
                            Tires are noisier than I remember them being when I had the same thing on my old 99 Silverado and it wanders even on surface streets. An alignment is in the cards after I check if I need to do the "knockouts" myself before taking it in. Might stop at a autozone type place on the way back from the DMV to put some Technron in the tank to start cleaning the system out.
                            Central TEXAS Sleeper
                            USAF Physicist

                            ROA# 9790

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by CTX-SLPR View Post
                              As much as I don't want to buy things more than once... You can buy a lot of Dorman handles for the cost of a dealer handle ($83).
                              Tires are noisier than I remember them being when I had the same thing on my old 99 Silverado and it wanders even on surface streets. An alignment is in the cards after I check if I need to do the "knockouts" myself before taking it in. Might stop at a autozone type place on the way back from the DMV to put some Technron in the tank to start cleaning the system out.
                              taking your door apart every other month isnt worth the 50 bucks you save. the dorman stuff is really that bad. really.
                              Charles

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