I did go out in the chilly rain and hole up in the van while I pulled the passenger seat. There was a slow period in the rain so I hustled the HHR seat into the shop along with the Ford base and now those two are almost bred together (does this make Vanna a hybrid?). So just a tad to finalize tomorrow and we'll have a matched pair of charcoal HHR seats in there. They really DO feel a ton better, at least to our old fannies.
Pics tomorrow - too wet to shoot from outside into the van today.
The seat project is finito. Finally - why does everything take at least twice as long as it should?
It's interesting how much difference there is from side to side, both for the Ford seat bases and inner seat belt mounting and the HHR seats. Still, I get 'er done. Finished pics:
Looking in the passenger's door at the HHR seats in place.
And from the driver's side:
Rear shot. I don't know why the color looks so different between them - they really aren't different at all.
And The Step. The I mounted the HHR seat where it wanted to be on the Ford seat base and it ended up WAY too high off the floor. I considered several cures and finally decided to "raise" the floor by building the step shown here. The step is plywood and 2X4's ripped to 2 1/2" as the riser. I got some paint that's close to the carpet color and painted it with porch paint then covered it with a rubber floor mat trimmed to fit. I screwed it down with SS trim screws and Bob's yer uncle. It's now pretty comfy for a couple of old folks.
Thanks! Interestingly, the riser (step, whatever) actually makes MORE square inches of foot space than the original setup. I'm guessing that I lifted the foot area up and past some of the curve of the doghouse so it got a bit bigger. Anyhow, I'll take it.
First, an answer to Bob - yep, but it's easy to do. As it's sorta wedged in there there's only 1 screw needed to keep it in place so all I have to do is pull that screw (which holds a little bracket) and it'll pull right out.
But on to the current project. With all the cancer stuff (phone calls, forms, etc.) and the first trip to FL to get set up for protons I've had to work on this in fits and starts but here's the requested table as it goes in. I made it very stout (as always) and still swing out of the way to leave the back seat open for seating. The reason for the table, you're asking? ME has a small keyboard and she wants to be able to do her piano practice even while on the road. We can pull into a rest stop or wherever and she can flip down the table, set up the keyboard (easy to do) and play away. It might also get used for lunch or a computer keyboard stand though not often.
In the stowed position. The retained clevis (I guess you would call it) is to keep the top from rotating. The piece attached to the floor is just painted as it'll be covered with the carpet but everything else is powder coated and powder clear coated as well. As you can see, the top is not yet installed as I do the necessary finish (pics to follow).
The stops to keep the top from rotating past flat and 90* (stowed) position.
And with the stops touching. Taken a bit further back.
In the "in use" position. The pin is now holding it in this position.
Top of the top. I have one coat of grain filler on it in this shot, my first try with that. Oak has big pores that tend to show thru the clear finish so I decided to experiment. I wasn't able to find grain filler in town so I ordered it up from Rockler's.
And the back of the top. It'll show when the top is stowed so I need to finish it nicely, too. Finishing is NOT my strong suite so I'll see if this helps. This is a simple piece of 3/4" oak veneer plywood and the edge is simply biscuited on. I set the sides a tad high and use a flush trimming bit to level the sides to the top - otherwise I sand thru the veneer trying to level everything so I hit on this method which seems to work well.
So I haven't been doing NOTHING!
Last edited by DanStokes; April 15, 2017, 02:55 PM.
And the final product. Lots of apply finish, let finish dry, apply finish, repeat. Lesson learned on this project - when using pore filler, FIRST stain, THEN apply the pore filler. I did a test panel after screwing up the table top and while the pore filler does lighten the stain slightly it doesn't effect the color too much. Next time.......
In the storage position (like, when going down the road)
Pull the pin and swing the table toward the seat and reinstall the pin:
And then, flip the table to the working position:
Of course, lots of "I'd do XXX if I did it again", but mostly I'm OK with it. We'll have to see if it's OK to have the "flip function" unrestrained but if needed I can add a pin for the flip, too. ME thinks it'll be OK as is so we'll try it and see. Any tips on a drill guide for drilling tube? I'm looking at a Drill-Rite jig but wondered if anyone has any experience.