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Help with my 69 Chevelle 396
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I wouldn't replace what doesn't need to be replaced - too often the new stuff is of such inferior quality that the old, used stuff is better. I get what your guy is saying, save what isn't broke - but at some point your shop will look like my shop full of "it just needs ____ and it will be perfect".... I honestly have stuff from the 80s that has that statement attached to it...
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Postball joints are a wear item - toss it, they make correct ones; but most don't have the ability to rivet them onto the control arm.
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ball joints are a wear item - toss it, they make correct ones; but most don't have the ability to rivet them onto the control arm.
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Shot? Junk!
But then..I'd drive it.. Nothing to save but to keep it running and drive it everywhere!
You are different..
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The guy that is helping me on my car that owns his own shop has not 1 but 2 of probably the rarest motor I have even seen in person for the Chevy world that is , he has 2 alum. Heads on the alum. Block with the snow flake On the block . real Yenko motors ,
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I was almost thinking about pulling some of the org parts off so nothing will happend to them . Kinda like pulling the org. Wheels off so a pot hole don't mess them up , or pulling the org. Motor & tranz out to set aside , but idk yet depends how much I drive it , my dad hardly ever drove more then to a car show in town or to clear her out up and back down the road by our old house , it was a nice half mile road with no side streets or drive ways . Car has 36k
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Originally posted by yellomalibu View Post
Excellent advice, but pretty much impossible to follow it. Why? Well, for me, because what I want now isn't what I'll want a year from now or five years from now. I can do as much research as possible, then after buying a bunch of stuff and heading down one road, realize I want something else. I'm learning this again with my new hobby, hiking / backpacking. The more you learn, the more you realize you don't know. The cheap stuff - we all know that's generally good to avoid. The mid priced stuff is often the way to go, but not always. The "expensive" stuff is sometimes overpriced brand name stuff, or sometimes it is worth the price they are asking. Unfortunately, time and experience are what is required to find out what is what in those matters. Generally speaking, however, the more expensive stuff is better because the cheaper stuff will often get replaced later by the expensive stuff - and buying it once is cheaper than buying it two or three times.
I'm glad the OP has said that he will keep ALL the original stuff.
My advice would be to go easy on the car. Give it the respect it deserves. Building a corner carving road race car or a wheel carrying drag car out of a relatively rare Super Sport is like ... well, if you wanted to play sand lot baseball with some friends, would you use the autographed world series baseball you had on the shelf because "it's what you've got?"
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostOn poly rear bushings.. My kid put some on his 65 Skylark.. Had the 500 Caddy in it.. When the built 455 went in, I found the polu bushed control arms in the scrap pile. Asked why, said it was wonky and did not like it.. His steering is manual and ssssllllow
I want to add a box like what is in the 57..
So FIGURE WHAT YOU WANT...build for that..
I'm glad the OP has said that he will keep ALL the original stuff.
My advice would be to go easy on the car. Give it the respect it deserves. Building a corner carving road race car or a wheel carrying drag car out of a relatively rare Super Sport is like ... well, if you wanted to play sand lot baseball with some friends, would you use the autographed world series baseball you had on the shelf because "it's what you've got?"
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On poly rear bushings.. My kid put some on his 65 Skylark.. Had the 500 Caddy in it.. When the built 455 went in, I found the polu bushed control arms in the scrap pile. Asked why, said it was wonky and did not like it.. His steering is manual and ssssllllow
I want to add a box like what is in the 57..
So FIGURE WHAT YOU WANT...build for that..
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That sounds like a reasonable approach... make sure you use quality ball joints. we religiously use Moog Problem Solver line whenever available...
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about poly - it does really good in 2 dimension, but terrible in 3 dimension. On your lower, rear arms you need to make a choice about what you're going to do. Poly works well for drag racing because it doesn't deflect, also on autocross for the same reason - but in both situations you're driving the car at the edge and attuned to what it's going to do.... on the street, however, you're not paying the same level of attention (nor should you have to because it'd exhaust on your way to work). While I agree that poly is excellent for the front suspension and has no down side; on the lower, rear arms (and to a much lessor extent the upper mounts) the rear twists and that creates load at points that should be loaded because it will tend to transition in turns in an understeer/oversteer as the rear finds a way to compensate for the loads (remember, if the bushing doesn't allow the movement either movement will stop or it will find another path to release the energy) - which could be surprising steering. The fix is poly on the axle end and johnny joints on the frame attachments - or rubber on all attachment points.
remember when we asked about your plans - this is where that decision starts help make the next decisions. The other issue you'll have to consider is that if you run a 295 rear tire, it will rub on hard cornering if you use rubber bushings; again, what your plans/look/stance (I hate the word stance) helps you build a car that is a pleasure to drive.
On my Buick, I had poly/heim joints and a loc-rite differential. It would understeer under power - but I loved it because no matter how fast I hit a corner, I knew exactly how it was going to act/react. Driving fast isn't about going fast, it's about going fast consistently. A Chevelle with all rubber bushings and stock sway - can handle very very well.... though again, I really recommend the b-spindle conversion (which is using cop-car spindles with relocating upper control arms) no matter what direction you head.
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Originally posted by Brian28 View Post
Thank you , right now I desided to just do a full poly. Bushing upgrade and see how it feels after that , then see if I need better , really it's just a Sunday driver on a nice day , and I won't be tracking it , I really just need it to be good for having a lil fun and street light to street light , the shop that was helping me said 400 to do the front end work and 200 for the rear , I think I might just do the work my self that way I'll have that 600 for something else for the car , like fixing the driver seat redoing both fronts , also I already got the new carpet , and just like all the 69s the top of the dash they crack , so maybe get a new one , and the interior will be great
bushing replacement really isnt that difficult with the correct tools. I would definitely save you a chunk of change doing it your self. You will still what to have the alignment checked after replacing the front bushings to prevent uneven tire wear and potentially driveability issues due to a poor alignment. We do offer a nice Delrin bushing kit for the front of those cars that you might check out. The only thing with those cars is that, for now, we only offer the round bushings and some of the A-Body cars had oval shaped bushings. We are still trying to find out why some cars had them and why some didnt. We have heard a lot of reasons why they potentially could but nothing that we can confirm.
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