Vette bonding adhesive works really well for building up fiberglass.
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In this case on that corner I felt I needed the strength of mat and weave under there, but what adhesive do you use? I know you've said, but I'd have to do some digging to find it. I've still got door outers to stick back down and eventually a front clip to mount....
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Originally posted by Loren View PostIn this case on that corner I felt I needed the strength of mat and weave under there, but what adhesive do you use? I know you've said, but I'd have to do some digging to find it. I've still got door outers to stick back down and eventually a front clip to mount.
it builds up but doesn't require fiber infused.
what I used for adhering was 3M 8115Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 4, 2018, 12:23 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Well look at that...my log-in works.
Long-time, no-me-be-here. I think maybe Deaf Bob went and needled me enough to get back in communication that it finally soaked in. I see this place is still in business anyhow.
Soooo... Hello old friends. Q; How am I, A; A fine old grouch, calling myself semi-retired which I shall probably always do, long as I can still make a living that way. Q; How is Gail; Fine, working from home, happy the Olympics mash is over once again. She is on Facebook with a minimal amount of friends. I'll put in a personal pic in this fabrication thread, one she would probably be OK with. Remember we're all about ten years older than we were when we posted often.
This was on her co-worker's 30' sailboat which had been "inherited" and we were helping sort out, our little 22' we have (another project) is not something we care to take out on open ocean. Never mind the horrific politics, we love CA and they're not going to ruin it for us.
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OK, back to fabrication and mechanical, and skipping around from project to project as I tend to do. Hey it's a hobby I can do what I want.
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There is still an old '72 Corvette around here in pieces. Crap, I've had it for years now. An original big-block/4-speed car which I have always intended to put back together as stock, I call it my old-man cruiser...for when I get to be an old man. It's not really going to be the racing version (as much as I would like that also). What sucks about this car besides that with iron heads, iron intake and huge iron A/C compressor I think it's going to wind up weighing two tons, is a particular compromise with gearing. With a 2.54 Muncie, I put in a 3.08 rear to try and get some reasonable fuel mileage (hah) and I know that first gear is not going to be much fun, nor is the still-too-short final drive. This thing soooo needs a six-speed with some decent gear ranging.
So, let's put one in. I had once dragged home a '94 LT1 Trans Am with intentions for the drive train, changed my mind a little, and the Borg-Warner version of the T56 (said to be better than the early Tremecs) was available. It even had a bell housing that would fit the 454. Too bad I don't like hydraulic clutches if they can be avoided, especially the "pull-type" that came on F-bodys, and sorta wanted a steel housing. After staring at things a while I thought I might take a shot at modifying an old scattershield to make that work.
I start with laying out the T56 bell housing on a surface plate and getting a height dimension.
This old scattershield I got from a junkyard gets a line scribed on it at the same height and then gone-at with my buddy the 4 1/2" Makita and a cut-off wheel. At this point I've got that, the T56 housing with it's hyd. slave cylinder provision, and also the original Muncie housing for reference.
Now a couple of 5/8ths pieces of steel bar get bolted to the front of the Bridgeport table for use as location pins, seen just to the right of center of the photo, and the original Muncie housing bolted down..
The housing is used to find center. Bump a probe of some type against an edge, zero the readout, bump the far edge, halve the resulting number and center things.
To not try to load too much in any one post as well as to see if this still works, I'm going to take a break here. More to come.Last edited by Loren; August 21, 2021, 11:04 AM....
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Welcome back Loren! I really missed y'all. Please give Gail a hug from me and get one for yourself (as ME's Dad used to say). I look forward to more posts.
You'll see Dave G is also posting these days. He's an old friend of mine and former co-worker at EPA. Good guy even if he is an engineer (the best I ever worked with). You might find him interesting and at times useful.
Dan
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Being tired of bull**** might have got me but I see that most of it is gone now. In any event I don't really need to worry about it, now do I.... (wink, sorta)
This is letting me write for a few minutes and then times me out so I'll just try to work with it.
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I need to get dimensions for where the T56 trans will bolt to, using the T56 housing now bolted down, using the 5/8" index points. Since they're threaded holes they were kinda hard to find the centers for so I got on a lathe and made some little plugs with center-drill divets that were more easy to align to. With the already-established center index retained, the mill table was moved around and the numbers copied down.
I got a piece of 3/8" hot-roll steel from the supply house and got on the band saw to make a plate for the now-cut-up steel housing.
Then I needed to bolt down the steel housing, trim it's edge flat and cut away some clearance for where new bolt holes would be.
Then I welded on the flat plate which had been cut to fit the T56 pattern, and cut and welded round steel bosses to that for new bolt holes. Mig-welding for ease here, there's enough welded area here that it's not critical how it's done.
Warpage from welding was machined flat, holes were finished in the mill in correct position and M10 x 1.5 threads started, to be finished by hand.
And, ready for sandblast and paint. There are features here that will accommodate a mechanical clutch release instead of the hydraulic one but that's all for now. More to come next time.
Last edited by Loren; August 21, 2021, 11:42 AM....
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I expect so but don't know yet. I've read and heard that it's necessary, however it doesn't look like that big of a deal. For sure the reverse lockout solenoid off the side of the shifter box will have to go, although I'd like to use either that hole or the one for the skip-shift to make some kind-of reverse "lock-in" device as a theft deterrent. I'm willing to raise the body a half-inch or so to clear if I have to and it helps, otherwise I don't mind doing some cutting and patching on the trans tunnel. It looks like the shifter location won't be so far off that I can't just modify the lever a bit so it comes up in the normal place.
I suppose American Powertrain would have all the answers but, you-know, I'm kinda in this to go my own way....
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Originally posted by Loren View Post
I suppose American Powertrain would have all the answers but, you-know, I'm kinda in this to go my own way.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Yeah they can do their work and hold their secrets, all fair, but I'll know what's up with this version of the trans at-least within a couple weeks when I've got the driveline in the frame and go to test-sit the body down. For the benefits, I'm willing to do some floorpan work, which for me would be sheet-metal plates fastened over holes with rivets or screws and not attempting (or bothering) to fiberglass in new shape. We can do a plenty-good job with metal covers. I gotta say though, things don't look too bad. The trans crossmember I have, which I don't know what it came from, lines up squarely under the T56 mount area and all I've got to do is figure out an actual mount, too easy....
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