I keep just finding their newer overdrive 5-speed. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place.
.
it's no longer Nash/Richmond, it's just Richmond - point being that parts and such are still available and they still either are making them or planning to continue making them.... after all, they are the strongest this side of a Jerico
and who knows, maybe they ran them out to reintroduce them as an overdrive 5 speed....
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 5, 2022, 03:49 PM.
This lathe came on top of a wooden cabinet that was all wrong dimensionally. Lots of searching got me no suitable metal ones. Using 2x2 rect. tubing I made a frame, and drawers from some 16 gauge steel I had around, using drawer slides from Lowe's. I fitted a digital readout, but still need to find a 4-jaw chuck. My old machines are sold, for less than I bought them for as it doesn't seem to be a great market right now. So it goes, at-least I'm better set up now...this should be all the lathe I ever need.
Another project is a set of rear frame rails to install a (narrowed) 4th-gen Corvette rear suspension into a '63-81. I spent some time working this all out. Material is a gauge up from stock. When the tig-welds are cleaned up they look pretty slick.
I cut the dash out of the Camaro due to rust repair at the bottom of the windshield (note sandblasting on what was left), and to put a cross bar in for the cage that would be as out of the way as possible. It curves up to miss the speedo cluster and glove box, and has brackets that tie in to the sides of the cowl.
I cut a new strip where needed, formed it on the bead roller, and tig-welded it in place. I suppose I could have bought a replacement panel which might have been easier but then I'd have that Chinese element in there. Not that there is anything wrong with that...
With no travel plans for the Thanksgiving weekend and good weather predicted I got a "wild hair" and decided to get the main body stripped of ten-year-old primer with corrosion underneath and re-shot, after some more hammer- and filler-work. This is the good side...the other was pretty beat-up.
Primer/catalyst from the NAPA auto parts store with thinner that I had around, and a Tractor Supply spray gun, worked pretty well. After napping all weekend, The Inspector has a look, this cat usually comes around at the end of the day to claim whatever it is I'm working on. You checked that the paint was dry first, right?
A day later it was set up well enough to do some rough sanding with 180 grit. Remember having to wait a month with laquer? My favorite sanding blocks, cut strips of 1/4" masonite from a cabinet shop. The lower one has a 6" radius sanded into it. I had bought a full set of "Dura-Block" rubber blocks which are useful in some places but generally they just follow the waves instead of cutting them flat.
Once I find and fix all the spots that still need it things will get another thin coat and then 400 wet-sanded.
Nitto sells these 275-50-15 autocross versions of their drag radial. Should do nicely for the rear. Unfortunately no one sells a good 225-60 for the front, I'm probably going to wind up with just regular Porsche tires or something.
Some time back I had installed a set of 4-bolt main caps onto this '67 small-journal block and now am shopping for someone to line bore it. Good luck...not happening so far. Things in the machine shop business don't seem to be what they used to.
Onward. I sure would like to get some finish coat (black) on the main body in the next few weeks.
Last edited by Loren; November 29, 2022, 11:21 AM.
Hope you can find a decent shop. We're down to one shop in the area and they're so-so. Not bad but not great - at least the guy's a racer so he tries. If push comes to shove I can always go to the Charlotte area where we have the NASCAR shops, good but $$$$$!
Valley Head Service, once a go-to shop in L.A., promised over the phone he could do it then once I got there with the block seemed to not know what we were talking about. No, he can't do it. Burbank Speed promises on their website, last updated in 2009, that they do line bores but are not answering phone calls or e-mails. ??? What am I supposed to do, drive up there, show at the door and what, plead? Milodon referred me to VHS, and also a place in Riverside that turned out to be a retail store. When you can't trust Milodon to know their stuff, who can you trust? Did everybody retire and leave the receptionists?
Line boring takes a special machine, it's not like honing. Very few shops have ever done it. I may figure out how to do it on my Bridgeport but, Jeez. I'll need to hit about .002" and it's just not the device for it.
Valley Head Service, once a go-to shop in L.A., promised over the phone he could do it then once I got there with the block seemed to not know what we were talking about. No, he can't do it. Burbank Speed promises on their website, last updated in 2009, that they do line bores but are not answering phone calls or e-mails. ??? What am I supposed to do, drive up there, show at the door and what, plead? Milodon referred me to VHS, and also a place in Riverside that turned out to be a retail store. When you can't trust Milodon to know their stuff, who can you trust? Did everybody retire and leave the receptionists?
Line boring takes a special machine, it's not like honing. Very few shops have ever done it. I may figure out how to do it on my Bridgeport but, Jeez. I'll need to hit about .002" and it's just not the device for it.
That sucks. I know a guy but they're in Silver Lake, WI (Racine area) - not easy for you.
pretty sure this is what caused the "crate motor" fad...
or, the crate motor fad put all the real machinists out of business.
either way, im almost ready to start doing that as scarcity of good
work as well as RIDICULOUS pricing is making machine work
damn near a no go nowdays.
case in point--to press off 8 pistons from stock rods and hang them
on 8 new forged 7/16 capscrew rods cost me $200 last time i did it.
and it was JUST press on/off, no other work, no cleaning or hot tank,
didnt even include balancing.........
We still have a Few Machine Shops,
And True Speed Shop Engine Builders.
But they are ALL Getting Old, and retirement is around the corner. Others say that the to rebuild or replace the Machining Tools is what's going to put them out of business.
pretty sure this is what caused the "crate motor" fad...
or, the crate motor fad put all the real machinists out of business.
either way, im almost ready to start doing that as scarcity of good
work as well as RIDICULOUS pricing is making machine work
damn near a no go nowdays.
case in point--to press off 8 pistons from stock rods and hang them
on 8 new forged 7/16 capscrew rods cost me $200 last time i did it.
and it was JUST press on/off, no other work, no cleaning or hot tank,
didnt even include balancing.........
Finding a machine shop that cares about what they're doing. There are some still out there, but they are few and far between. I'm lucky, where I am now is surrounded by farm operations and all sorts of nuclear power stuff (Hanford) - thus most everyone I know is either a machinist. an engineer and/or a farmer. That said, speed shops... yeah, good luck with that.
This lathe came on top of a wooden cabinet that was all wrong dimensionally. Lots of searching got me no suitable metal ones. Using 2x2 rect. tubing I made a frame, and drawers from some 16 gauge steel I had around, using drawer slides from Lowe's. I fitted a digital readout, but still need to find a 4-jaw chuck. My old machines are sold, for less than I bought them for as it doesn't seem to be a great market right now. So it goes, at-least I'm better set up now...this should be all the lathe I ever need.
Another project is a set of rear frame rails to install a (narrowed) 4th-gen Corvette rear suspension into a '63-81. I spent some time working this all out. Material is a gauge up from stock. When the tig-welds are cleaned up they look pretty slick.
I cut the dash out of the Camaro due to rust repair at the bottom of the windshield (note sandblasting on what was left), and to put a cross bar in for the cage that would be as out of the way as possible. It curves up to miss the speedo cluster and glove box, and has brackets that tie in to the sides of the cowl.
I cut a new strip where needed, formed it on the bead roller, and tig-welded it in place. I suppose I could have bought a replacement panel which might have been easier but then I'd have that Chinese element in there. Not that there is anything wrong with that...
With no travel plans for the Thanksgiving weekend and good weather predicted I got a "wild hair" and decided to get the main body stripped of ten-year-old primer with corrosion underneath and re-shot, after some more hammer- and filler-work. This is the good side...the other was pretty beat-up.
Primer/catalyst from the NAPA auto parts store with thinner that I had around, and a Tractor Supply spray gun, worked pretty well. After napping all weekend, The Inspector has a look, this cat usually comes around at the end of the day to claim whatever it is I'm working on. You checked that the paint was dry first, right?
A day later it was set up well enough to do some rough sanding with 180 grit. Remember having to wait a month with laquer? My favorite sanding blocks, cut strips of 1/4" masonite from a cabinet shop. The lower one has a 6" radius sanded into it. I had bought a full set of "Dura-Block" rubber blocks which are useful in some places but generally they just follow the waves instead of cutting them flat.
Once I find and fix all the spots that still need it things will get another thin coat and then 400 wet-sanded.
Nitto sells these 275-50-15 autocross versions of their drag radial. Should do nicely for the rear. Unfortunately no one sells a good 225-60 for the front, I'm probably going to wind up with just regular Porsche tires or something.
Some time back I had installed a set of 4-bolt main caps onto this '67 small-journal block and now am shopping for someone to line bore it. Good luck...not happening so far. Things in the machine shop business don't seem to be what they used to.
Onward. I sure would like to get some finish coat (black) on the main body in the next few weeks.
Dan said it first, up in Wisconsin. Otherwise find a good general capabilities machine shop with a BIG horizontal milling machine. It needs to be big so that one setup gets the arbor all the way thru the block front to back. And make sure they understand that you want them to register off the lowest of the 5 bearing bores so that the crankshaft to camshaft dimensions are minimally changed. You may still need to line hone it as well.
Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoortView Post
BIG horizontal milling machine. .
I was at a guy's who sells misc. used stuff a few weeks ago and noticed an arbor bar meant for a horizontal that appeared to have a NMTB-30 (similar to CAT 30, 40 etc. such as used on machining centers) end like what my vertical mill has, and I happen to have what's called a column riser on my machine which gives more capacity on the Z axis, and I'm thinking I could work it out myself doing it vertically. Frankly these days I have a lot of trouble trusting anybody at all to do a proper job at something requiring particular unusual care or skill and would not try walking into a regular shop asking them to "get" what's needed here, obvious as it is, even if there were somebody with the equipment. Mains --are-- usually honed to size, you bore to within an amount the hone can work with and then let that take over, as honing is a more common process (and harder to fubar) I figure I would bore, somebody else would hone.
Everything has got to become a g@&&*m adventure. (unhappy face).
Meanwhile, with apparent limited choices available for the size these days (15's are like from pre-history) I ordered a pair of these tires for the front via Wal-Mart,
they were cheap and look about right for rollers at-least. Made in Indonesia. We'll see later on if they are any good at sticking to asphalt, or if they're just...
I was at a guy's who sells misc. used stuff a few weeks ago and noticed an arbor bar meant for a horizontal that appeared to have a NMTB-30 (similar to CAT 30, 40 etc. such as used on machining centers) end like what my vertical mill has, and I happen to have what's called a column riser on my machine which gives more capacity on the Z axis, and I'm thinking I could work it out myself doing it vertically. Frankly these days I have a lot of trouble trusting anybody at all to do a proper job at something requiring particular unusual care or skill and would not try walking into a regular shop asking them to "get" what's needed here, obvious as it is, even if there were somebody with the equipment. Mains --are-- usually honed to size, you bore to within an amount the hone can work with and then let that take over, as honing is a more common process (and harder to fubar) I figure I would bore, somebody else would hone.
Everything has got to become a g@&&*m adventure. (unhappy face).
Meanwhile, with apparent limited choices available for the size these days (15's are like from pre-history) I ordered a pair of these tires for the front via Wal-Mart,
they were cheap and look about right for rollers at-least. Made in Indonesia. We'll see later on if they are any good at sticking to asphalt, or if they're just...
...wait for it...
...some Indonesian Junk that's going 'round.
Thank-you, I'll be here all week.
Best of luck on all fronts. I think the speculation here that re-manufacturers are driving local machine shops out of business is probably true. The $$ to buy and maintain auto machine tools and equipment is astronomical and getting worse. Still, it sucks for folks like us.
Best of luck on all fronts. I think the speculation here that re-manufacturers are driving local machine shops out of business is probably true. The $$ to buy and maintain auto machine tools and equipment is astronomical and getting worse. Still, it sucks for folks like us.
I've been collecting old machinery for a while, stuff that is headed towards the recycling yard. Now if I could just get it all working again...another project for when I get older and retire.
I am older and retired! Now what do I use for an excuse?
Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoortView Post
I've been collecting old machinery for a while, stuff that is headed towards the recycling yard. Now if I could just get it all working again...another project for when I get older and retire.
I am older and retired! Now what do I use for an excuse?
Well I do in fact like steampunk. And the stuff I've been collecting does fit the part. And I take medication to keep the pressure low. Blood pressure that is...
You've seen the 1928 bushing grinder, but there's also the 30s era lathe, and the 40s era drill press, and the late 40s early 50s valve and seat grinding equipment, and the boring bar of unknown origin age and heritage. Other stuff is much less interesting.
Oh well, what can I say, people just like giving the stuff to someone who won't scrap it.
I wish I could have given someone this loose-but-functional old Bridgeport before it sat out and turned into a rust ball, but no takers...everybody says they want one but (curious thing) no one steps up. I bet I put a thousand-or-more hours on this in the '90s, making forming dies. Ready to go off to scrap now.
More scrap ready to go, some leftovers from my truck project (the one in front!). The cab in the front of the trailer was a crashed gas V10 truck which provided a front Dana 60 and transfer case, all the weld-on bracketry to convert a 2WD frame to 4WD, plus a good dash which is hard to find in these Dodges. The rear cab was from a diesel/automatic 2WD which provided a Cummins bottom end, Banks turbo stuff, a solid frame and decent bed. There is still another parts truck to scrap, a 360/NV3500 5-speed. CL ads for other leftover parts including two Dana 70s, an 80, and a bunch of other stuff get zero responses, I really thought I'd get some money back on those. Oh well, I'll keep what seems sensible then there'll be another scrap load.
Weather in San Diego sunny and 65 today. Hopefully another round of primer on the Camaro then, and back to regular work for a couple months.
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