BLOWER

[Deaf Bob]

I guess you could plumb this and drill a hole in your oil pan..
I'll leave the real answer to them in the know..

[SuperBuickGuy]

The one thing that I probably lost some sleep over last night, rolling around in bed, maybe about an hour so......I hope this blower is actually the right blower for the application. I NEVER told the guy on the other end of the phone what we intended to do with it. All I said was I want one. I hope I didn't ignore what Perry said, RESEARCH research research. I didn't do that very much.

From dragging through the Vortech web pages during my downtime, they indicate that the V2 is better suited for road courses, on the boost for extended periods of time. I can nearly understand that, but I'm not sure I understand all of it at all. The V2 models have a thing where you have to drill a hole in the oil pan (OH holy horrors) and that's what keeps the blower itself cool? Maybe....I don't understand. But ours is a V3, High Output.

Our V3 blower came with a nice blower housing full of very special oil in it, it just sits there. And you'd better change that special oil every 20K miles or so. I'm having nightmares that the one we got is more for doing burnouts and drag racing and quick-on quick-off the throttle kinds of things. Not running full throttle at Daytona or somewhere. I'm suspect of it, my choice of products because I didn't say the right thing or enough things on the telephone, my fault for sure... And it's not even near together yet.

you'll be fine, pdub. you didn't buy a race-car blower - which is a good thing because race cars don't have the same issues that street cars do. The blower is connected all the time - so I'm not quite sure what you're going on about... part throttle and idle is harder on speed parts then WOT. Though with that said, you need to take care of your car - just like you've already been doing.

[JamesMayberryIII]

The one thing that I probably lost some sleep over last night, rolling around in bed, maybe about an hour so......I hope this blower is actually the right blower for the application. I NEVER told the guy on the other end of the phone what we intended to do with it. All I said was I want one. I hope I didn't ignore what Perry said, RESEARCH research research. I didn't do that very much.

From dragging through the Vortech web pages during my downtime, they indicate that the V2 is better suited for road courses, on the boost for extended periods of time. I can nearly understand that, but I'm not sure I understand all of it at all. The V2 models have a thing where you have to drill a hole in the oil pan (OH holy horrors) and that's what keeps the blower itself cool? Maybe....I don't understand. But ours is a V3, High Output.

Our V3 blower came with a nice blower housing full of very special oil in it, it just sits there. And you'd better change that special oil every 20K miles or so. I'm having nightmares that the one we got is more for doing burnouts and drag racing and quick-on quick-off the throttle kinds of things. Not running full throttle at Daytona or somewhere. I'm suspect of it, my choice of products because I didn't say the right thing or enough things on the telephone, my fault for sure... And it's not even near together yet.

First hint is, at least to me. why this type compressor never took off, They been around for 50+ years but never really took off, not in racing, not on the street..
There just might be a reason the other type even with all it's power robbing is the choice of most.. Including the o.e.m.'s..
Good luck with it.. hope if it has it's own oil system that the pick up , picks up the oil on those high banks

[silver_bullet]

In many ways, your supercharger is more practical for use on the street,,, centrifugal types transfer less heat from the engine to the blower than a roots type, are easier to intercool, easier to mount under a stock hood, and allow for a given amount of slip, where a roots type is a positive displacement air pimp that does not allow air to slip past the rotors... just take your time getting used to the acceleration curve on the blower motor Dub... then you can go out and spank the big boys on the track!

[RideTech_Ryan]

you will be fine P-Dub. I had the V2 with the oil line tapped into the oil pan. I liked the V3 better because the oil is self contained. It doesn't rely on the engine for oil. Biggest advantage,imo, if the engine starts to break down (ie metal shavings/debris) it stays there. It wont get sucked up into the blower taking out 2 birds with 1 stone. Same scenario if the blower starts to break down. Stays in the blower not the engine.
Also with the V2, if it sits long enough most of the oil will drain back down into the pan. Causing a "dry start" there is still some oil in the head unit but not as much as as self contained system.

[DanStokes]

Each type of blower has its pluses and minuses. For how you use Red you've made a fine choice. Turbos either have lag or if lag has been reduced are really complex. Roots blowers heat the air a LOT and (as Patrick mentioned) are difficult to intercool and package. So yours is a great compromise and will have enough power output to scare your pants off! Again, +2 to getting used to it slowly - and you will. Have fun and enjoy the process.

Hey - would you post a pic of the hose clamps that are difficult for you? I'll bet we have some tips that will make them a bunch easier - there are ways of handling each type of clamp. Sometimes, you just need to right kind of special pliers. So show us the offending little buggers.

Dan

[pdub]

*****WHEW****** gosh golly THANK YOU guys. Thanks SO much....I'm sitting here, I never should have read anything after I'd already bought in...I'm sitting here thinking that, let's say at Daytona, or any of the road courses really, the enclosed blower system would sit there in that fancy oil trapped inside that blower housing and just cook the fancy oil and take out the blower bearings under such abuse over extended periods of time. Like, full throttle about 80% of the time over the course of about 20 minutes (the length of a run). THAT is specifically what I was worried about. If that's not a worry, I'm no longer worried.

And Dan, get your snow shovel out and wax it for heavy use while I take some photos of some hose clamps.

[pdub]

I hate both types of hose clamps shown. yes, even the good old fashioned stainless screw it ones of any size.



And I believe I hated them especially worse on the day I went off on a hose clamp tirade. And that was no fault of the clamps themselves, actually. It's the DISassembly process. The comedians at the factory obviously built the engine in steps and stations and the put the clamps ON whereever it was easy to reach for THEM putting it together.

THEN when it comes time to take it apart, those clamps, the business end of them, are turned and tucked away somewhere in a spot that will make ANYBODY cuss, even me.

[silver_bullet]

Dub, we use the stainless screw types as much as possible with one caveat... we try to get only ones with the hex head on them... that way, we use either nut drivers, or 1/4 " drive sockets on them with better success when accessibility is an issue... as for the spring type, I hate em, but, they are better tackled with the specialty pliers Dan speaks of...

[pdub]

Dub, we use the stainless screw types as much as possible with one caveat... we try to get only ones with the hex head on them... that way, we use either nut drivers, or 1/4 " drive sockets on them with better success when accessibility is an issue... as for the spring type, I hate em, but, they are better tackled with the specialty pliers Dan speaks of...

Nut driver, whatta concept. I HAVE been putting a socket on them after I get them snug enough to not run away when you touch it with anything. Gosh, does anybody else want me to work on THEIR car?

[silver_bullet]

Ok, Ok PDub... I wasn't going there, but, the cheaper the hose clamp, the more they piss me off... I was just offering help... I personally don't like busting knuckles if it isn't necessary, and have been known to use 2 feet of extension to get to a hose clamp...

[pdub]

Ok, Ok PDub... I wasn't going there, but, the cheaper the hose clamp, the more they piss me off... I was just offering help... I personally don't like busting knuckles if it isn't necessary, and have been known to use 2 feet of extension to get to a hose clamp...

Where I wasn't going....I don't have any nut drivers! HAHAHAhAHA!!!!!!!!!! I ain't kidding. HHAAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!

[pdub]

We've got a long run of 1 inch hose left to go, with lots of clamps, and all of this spills out of a single bag inside the box.



Those ones on the lower left are lots bigger than an inch. This whole thing came packaged in neighborhoods. The one-inch clamps I've had to use so far, they were all together like a family, and I had to open them so far they came apart at times going around the 1 inch hose.

But these ones.....what about the plastic zip-tie sort of ones, all of them? Are they any good for a pressure connection? All of this was in one bag. Just, here ya GO. This is not a neighborhood, this is a ghetto. Yes, I still hate hose clamps and the directions are no help at all. I'll bet the directions are perfectly correct because whoever wrote them knew exactly what to do already. I love the passage, "Find assembly XYZ-A410 (or whatever) and assure that all the parts are included." I love that. I just love that, I really do.

[silver_bullet]

personally I wouldn't trust the plastic ones to even burn good... I like the stainless ones best...especially the large ones shown here...

they work well for air cleaner and silicone boots! found out about them while working in the corn processing plant...

http://www.hardwaremfg.com/high-torque-quick-release-bandclamps

[pdub]

I'm getting sent to Hose Clamp School and that's a great thing. Learning curve vertical. Thanks Patrick and EVERYBODY! Wow, this interaction is enormous to me, thanks so much. Gosh So much involved in getting this thing put together.

But here's where we are tonight, even if "studying" takes a lot of time, the studying had better be done first. Or ELSE, in this case.

Let's talk wiring for a moment. When I was a young buck, I had a whole lot of wired up junk for stereos, and I could strip a wire in a matter of seconds, never mind I lost half the diameter of it, it would still "work."

These days, it took me way too long to carve on these wires and get the insulation removed from the ends, being careful to not damage a single strand. This a critical thing. I learned even as a kid that ground was a lot harder to make than positive. And I haven't forgotten that. This is the hookup for the new blower cooler water pump. I've got the wires ready, and it will go together like this, the fittings.



If I was sixteen years old again, I'd just take some channel locks or needle nose pliers and just mash these things flat. But not now. Not going 140 mph or more.

What's the right tool to secure these connections? I ask because I honesty don't know and I know y'all DO know. I'm not making a move until I find out.