Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

new build gonna need help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • new build gonna need help

    This is the pickup I purchased to build my project with. I want to build the truck ultimately for daily driving with a little drag, auto cross, and the power tour. My plans are to ditch the wimpy small block and put a twin turbo 540 in. I am having trouble trying to figure out what type of suspension I should go with and was hoping some of you that have way more experience at this than me can help me out. I know to be able to drag the truck down the track I am going to have to put a cage in it and get it certified and get a license to boot. I dont have any experience building a cage, tried to read the nhra rule book but didnt comprehend exactly what is needed for a truck cage. I know I want to build it out of chromoly. Also i was planning on running 20x12 rims in the back with 31x18r20 mickeys. I will also need help with the fuel system as I have been doing a lot of research about the fuel systems for this type of motor. Borowski racing is who is going to build my motor but when I asked about manual fuel pump versus a couple of electronic fuel pumps and they said to stay with the electronic fuel pumps. Would like to get some of your opinions on that as well. I would like to get all the help I can from more experienced people.

    Thanks,
    Bradley

  • #2
    I've had a couple drinks so I will jump in. Why Chrome Moly cage? I mean it is cool and all but it is harder to weld (TIG) and I am not sure a turboed 540CI big block is going to notice a few extra pounds. With that said, I would check out places like S&W Race Cars, Alston, Art Morrison for cage kits. As to suspension - I believe it is going to be hard to find a good compromise at your power levels to autocross and drag race well. For an all-out effort on drag racing I believe an equal length 4 link would be best. For autocross some kind of triangulated 3 link would be better. As to fuel system - electric is the only option that will get you there unless you are thinking about belt driven fuel pumps. Clearly nothing that runs off the cam is going to get close to filling your needs with the motor you are talking about.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
      I've had a couple drinks so I will jump in. Why Chrome Moly cage? I mean it is cool and all but it is harder to weld (TIG) and I am not sure a turboed 540CI big block is going to notice a few extra pounds. With that said, I would check out places like S&W Race Cars, Alston, Art Morrison for cage kits. As to suspension - I believe it is going to be hard to find a good compromise at your power levels to autocross and drag race well. For an all-out effort on drag racing I believe an equal length 4 link would be best. For autocross some kind of triangulated 3 link would be better. As to fuel system - electric is the only option that will get you there unless you are thinking about belt driven fuel pumps. Clearly nothing that runs off the cam is going to get close to filling your needs with the motor you are talking about.
      i say chromoly as it is supposed to be the strongest. Also I am all new to this and this is my first build so I am in the research before I drop money mode. So far the only thing I have dropped money on is the truck it self and ordered some budnik rims. Already spoke to Borowski racing engines and schedule my engine build for summer. So like I said trying to figure out the best way to go about trying to achieve my goals for this truck.

      Comment


      • #4
        Nascar selected your truck's original suspension for a lot of good reasons... check out what these guys have to offer!
        http://hotrodstohell.net/truckarm/tr...uckarm_c10.htm

        Click image for larger version

Name:	truck_update_kit.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	24.1 KB
ID:	1138408

        and for the front:
        Click image for larger version

Name:	12747944_1029390203794542_9088646675660411302_o.jpg?oh=e48111eb230fdbaab02712e33e810a8c&oe=58E1159A.jpeg
Views:	17
Size:	95.1 KB
ID:	1138407
        Attached Files
        Last edited by silver_bullet; December 28, 2016, 08:30 PM.
        Patrick & Tammy
        - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

        Comment


        • #5
          Chromemoly tubing isn't stronger. It's stronger at a given wall thickness than, say, DOM tubing and is difficult to weld properly. I'd just go with DOM and as suggested, look into a kit as a starting point - Speedway is a possible source in addition to the ones mentioned. LSR allows a swing-out side bar but I don't think NHRA does, the point being that the rules differ so check with the different sanctioning bodies and pick the cage design that meets ALL the requirements. With that much engine, LSR will require a "funny car" style cage but we do allow bolts in the cage assembly (there are limits and specs for that) so you might be able to make the part surrounding the driver as a bolt-in so you can drive the darn thing on the street.

          The point of all this - buy the rule books for the various types of racing you're thinking about and build your cage to those specs. I can't tell you how many times someone shows up at ECTA events with a cage that they thought "should be OK" but that simply don't meet the rules. And if you have any questions, CALL the sanctioning body BEFORE you start welding. They'll put you on to their person in charge of these things and they'll work with you to get something that'll work and keep you safe.

          Dan

          Comment


          • #6
            I would second the truck arm suspension from Hot Rods to Hell . They are the ones that supplied the ones under Farm Truck and it pulls the front wheels so that proves they work drag racing and the nascar thing is also true . Basically the 3rd gen camaro has a 3 link in them so ..... they will handle . The cage stuff I'm staying out of becaue those with more ( as I have none ) experience than me have already given you good advise .
            Previously HoosierL98GTA

            Comment


            • #7
              You might check into what we have to offer for the suspension on your truck. Depending on how much of what driving your going to do (ie street, drag, autocross) will depend on which kit i would recommend. If it is mainly street then the lvl 2 coilover with the front and rear sway bar. If it is more racing I would recommend the Lvl 3. The lvl 3 system comes with our triple adjustable shocks (rebound, high speed compression, low speed compression). The lvl 2 comes with single rebound adjustable shocks. Here is a link to what we have to offer for it http://www.ridetech.com/store/trucks...hash=V259.V328
              CHECK US OUT AT:
              www.ridetech.com

              Comment


              • #8
                thank you all for the advice, I will definently keep doing my homework. Already called hotrodstohell and plan on speaking with ridetech tomorrow. now with the power I plan on running do I need to do anything to my frame other than boxing it in?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Has your engine builder given you any estimate on power level?
                  What rear end are you planning on running?
                  What transmission are you planning on running?

                  Depending on the cage (rollbar) you select, it will definitely stiffen the chassis. Also the choices you make for front and rear suspension will also most likely improve the rigidity of that area of the frame. Until you know those details it is hard to say that you NEED to box the frame but other than adding some weight, I can't see any downside to doing that as well.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Depending on the frame configuration and the cage setup, you'll likely need to at least partially plate the frame to allow you to tie in the cage to the frame. Mutt has plates about 8" long by the height of the frame rails with a piece of angle welded to the plate so that the bottom of the down tubes land on that angle. One way or another the cage and chassis must be joined.

                    Dan

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      This post reminds me of my 15 year old. He likes to dream big with little clue about: A. how to get there, B. the practicality of a radical DD, or C. just how much it will all cost. All are ingredients that typically end with a once running/driving truck scattered in a zillion pieces and zero motivation or money to put Humpty back together again.

                      That being said.....

                      A twin turbo 540" daily driver..... very lofty goal. Hell, even a 540" n/a motor as a DD is pretty much overkill. If daily driving is remotely in the plans, you'd be 100x better served by a (can't believe I'm saying this) single turbo LS motor. PLENTY of guys going stupid fast with them and it would be a much lighter combo for DD and autocross. A big block anything with 2 turbos, wastegates, BOV's, intercoolers, and the associated plumbing is going to be a nose-heavy, tire eating SOB.

                      8 point mild steel cage with swing-outs (get a shop to do it right), skip the frame boxing, update the stock-style suspension, add a turbo LS, go fast and do lots of burnouts.

                      My 2 lincolns, fwiw.

                      Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                      1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ix-to-4sixzero
                      1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                      1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                      1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BBR View Post
                        This post reminds me of my 15 year old. He likes to dream big with little clue about: A. how to get there, B. the practicality of a radical DD, or C. just how much it will all cost. All are ingredients that typically end with a once running/driving truck scattered in a zillion pieces and zero motivation or money to put Humpty back together again.

                        That being said.....

                        A twin turbo 540" daily driver..... very lofty goal. Hell, even a 540" n/a motor as a DD is pretty much overkill. If daily driving is remotely in the plans, you'd be 100x better served by a (can't believe I'm saying this) single turbo LS motor. PLENTY of guys going stupid fast with them and it would be a much lighter combo for DD and autocross. A big block anything with 2 turbos, wastegates, BOV's, intercoolers, and the associated plumbing is going to be a nose-heavy, tire eating SOB.

                        8 point mild steel cage with swing-outs (get a shop to do it right), skip the frame boxing, update the stock-style suspension, add a turbo LS, go fast and do lots of burnouts.

                        My 2 lincolns, fwiw.
                        Reading your post made me laugh. That is why I am on here, to learn. My daily driver is 1000 whp challenger hellcat at the moment. In high school I had a 496 bbc about 675 hp with a th400 and 3.73. So I am trying to have something with a little more power for mainly a daily driver but also something I can go play with a the tracks from time to time. My engine builder says we will detune it to roughly 1200 to 1300 hp, built 4l80e and a fab 9 with 3.25. still havent decided what size tire I am going to run. Thinking 20x10 up front and 20x12 in the back. So that is why I am asking for help from people who have already built a similar set up. I accept all advice. Who know's I could really be dreaming in the stratosphere here but it's something I would like to have and enjoy.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          So what does you guys that have done something like this suggest. I know I want a big block and a lot of hp. but with it mainly being a daily driver. My engine builder is Borowki racing engines 540 big m dart block callies magnum crank, callies I beam rods, diamond pistons, dart pro 1 355 cc heads, crower rocker assembley, crank trigger, holley dominator efi, 83mm twin bullseye turbos, n20 interspoolers, and were discussing intake at the moment he wants to use edelbrock victor efi intake with 2000 cfm throttle body ( I am thinking maybe do a sheet metal intake), a built 4l80e, mossier fab 9 rear end with 3.25's. So what would some of you guy's suggest? Like I have said in the planning stages and new to this so looking for all the info I can get then make decisions from there.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The level of performance you are after is going to take a serious amount of sorting out in any vehicle it could go into. No bolt in kit is going to do everything you want. The chassis setups you need for drag racing and autocross are at odds with each other, and that kind of power on an autocross course is silly. Road course with some long straights? Maybe. It will be much more effective if you choose one form of competition to persue.

                            The kind of power you're after is ridiculous on the street. A waste really. The parts needed at that power level don't tend to hold up well at long term use, but are much better suited to race cars that are torn down regularly.

                            My 2 cents

                            Devin

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I break frame pieces with small blocks.

                              You must have a southern address to go with the daydreams.

                              link this link that, 4way 3 way..
                              no way would I trust a c10 frame as factory.
                              what are you tying it all into?

                              if by cage this is the encapsulation sticking out of the cab keeping it all together with the back end...
                              I'd still doubt it.

                              Those trucks barely weighed 4000-4500 for the volume you see in front of you.
                              Surprised no one mentioned the core of its existence...
                              Previously boxer3main
                              the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X