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  • #16
    To follow on with Devin's comments.
    Ask your builder what
    1. net lift he is planning on running
    2. springs he is planning on running
    3. lifters he is planning on running
    4. cam gear he is planning on running

    From my personal experience the springs and lifters are going to be the high maintenance / high dollar disposable parts. Also, I am sure you are aware but lifters go bad quickly and can cause pretty extensive damage if not caught in time. On something you drive a lot this can happen when you are a ways from home.

    On another note, IF you are planning on running Mickey Thompson Sportsman Radial rear tires, I might suggest you go with a course fabric on your seat covers so you can get a good grip on them as those tires will not hold that power level on the street. I am running 29 18 15 SRs and can blow them off without a great deal of effort and have significantly lower power levels that you are talking about.

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    • #17
      Just an FYI - cstmwgn is the real deal. His Ford goes like a race car and looks like a show car. Nifty ride!

      Dan

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      • #18
        How fast do you expect this thing to go on the drag strip?

        As for the DD thing....most folks who run drag week haul their cars in on a trailer.

        My fabulous web page

        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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        • #19
          you mentioned that your hellcat has 1000 rwhp! So I can only assume you have done some significant modifications to get there. Also, please be assured that a C10 (or for me an mid 60s F-series) would be ultra cool with a twin turbo big cubic inch engine - BUT from my experience - to get to these high numbers dramatically increases the maintenance and significant reduces the reliability/drivaebility. Today, I carry a full set or roller lifters and all associated gaskets to change them on the side of the road as I have destroyed a GOOD engine when I did not catch a lifter failure quick enough (tried to drive it to the hotel instead of fixing it right there!).

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          • #20
            Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
            Just an FYI - cstmwgn is the real deal. His Ford goes like a race car and looks like a show car. Nifty ride!

            Dan
            Thanks for the compliment Dan!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
              To follow on with Devin's comments.
              Ask your builder what
              1. net lift he is planning on running
              2. springs he is planning on running
              3. lifters he is planning on running
              4. cam gear he is planning on running

              From my personal experience the springs and lifters are going to be the high maintenance / high dollar disposable parts. Also, I am sure you are aware but lifters go bad quickly and can cause pretty extensive damage if not caught in time. On something you drive a lot this can happen when you are a ways from home.

              On another note, IF you are planning on running Mickey Thompson Sportsman Radial rear tires, I might suggest you go with a course fabric on your seat covers so you can get a good grip on them as those tires will not hold that power level on the street. I am running 29 18 15 SRs and can blow them off without a great deal of effort and have significantly lower power levels that you are talking about.
              i know jesel belt drive, pac 1300 triple valve springs 1.645, .904" 0.300 Tall O/C BB4 Arms dont know what lifters he is planning on running, I will ask him tomorrow. I know the cam is a comp special grind cam

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              • #22
                so realistically or theoretically what should I be shooting for hp wise to run this efficiently on the street as a daily driver?

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                • #23
                  depends totally on the overall setup... Troy from Rad Rods by Troy had Chicayne running about 11-1250 on the dyno, and he stated that it was as docile at everyday driving as it was brutal under acceleration... its a fine line that you have to determine what's right for you... Listen to the likes of cstmwgn for great advice! his wagon is one of the best out there due to his ingenuity and craftsmanship!
                  Last edited by silver_bullet; January 1, 2017, 09:01 PM.
                  Patrick & Tammy
                  - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                  • #24
                    I really think "how many HP" is the wrong question. You'll have more HP than you can possibly use given the displacement and that you'll work with a pro to get a good tune. What I'd suggest you do is to pick parts that can be expected to live on a 1,000 mile drive and build to that, then let the HP fall where it will. Like I said, it'll be PLENTY!

                    The best engine building advice I got was from Keith Turk. We were talking about LSR engines but the goal for a hot street car is similar. He said that you need to build it like an endurance racing or off-shore race boat engine. These guys have to run at WOT for HOURS and the majority of race engine builders are looking for drag race engines that run at WOT for seconds. This is NOT to dis drag race engine builders - they get HUGE power, probably the max power you can ever get from that engine's displacement and configuration. But as noted, it does that for seconds and you need it to make power for days. So be sure to let your builder know that you need durability above max HP and I predict you'll be a lot happier with the result.

                    How many HP can you actually use on the street given traction limitations, Johnny Law, traffic, and the rest of the restrictions? From what I can tell, maybe 600 to 800 HP is all you can ever expect to use in a (primarily) street-driven car/truck. I think anything more than that is about bragging. The combo you described will make an easy 1,000 even if detuned to preserve lifters and springs and that's plenty. One thought (and I've seen this at Bonneville) is to drive with lighter springs and a reduced tune and switch springs and bump the tune on the track - nothing wrong with that approach. I even saw one guy who swapped cams.

                    Dan

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                    • #25
                      The Drag Week guys have been fighting this battle for over ten years...valve springs and roller lifters are big problems. My latest DW car is kind of slow, it's barely got into the nines, but it is reliable enough that I've driven it 1400 miles to get to Drag Week. Not many of the faster guys will take that chance. I also run less than .600 valve lift. Which is nothing for a big block.

                      also when telling us it's going to be a daily driver, how far from home will you plan to go regularly? does it need to be dead nuts reliable? or do you have contingency plans?

                      My fabulous web page

                      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                        The Drag Week guys have been fighting this battle for over ten years...valve springs and roller lifters are big problems. My latest DW car is kind of slow, it's barely got into the nines, but it is reliable enough that I've driven it 1400 miles to get to Drag Week. Not many of the faster guys will take that chance. I also run less than .600 valve lift. Which is nothing for a big block.

                        also when telling us it's going to be a daily driver, how far from home will you plan to go regularly? does it need to be dead nuts reliable? or do you have contingency plans?
                        i would like to be able to do the power tour and complete it other than that maybe 800 miles from home at most. So that is a definite discussion we will have tomorrow when I call him. Thanks everyone for the advice a lot of info to take in.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 1Bad72c10 View Post

                          i would like to be able to do the power tour and complete it other than that maybe 800 miles from home at most. So that is a definite discussion we will have tomorrow when I call him. Thanks everyone for the advice a lot of info to take in.
                          I do the power tour every year. I am running .706 net lift at the valve with somewhat mild dual spring set up at ~600lbs over the nose. I got ~6,000 miles on a set of Crower HIPPO lifters. Your build sounds like an order of magnitude more intense than mine so I have no clue how you are going to make it last.

                          So lets recap:
                          Power Tour is between 3,500 and 4,000 miles for me. For me putting in a set of $800 lifters every other oil change is high maintenance!
                          I put in a set of Morel bushed lifters to see if they are more durable but they are also closer to $1,000 so they will need to be significantly better!
                          Last edited by cstmwgn; January 1, 2017, 09:09 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                            I do the power tour every year. I am running .706 net lift at the valve with somewhat mild dual spring set up at ~600lbs over the nose. I got ~6,000 miles on a set of Crower HIPPO lifters. Your build sounds like an order of magnitude more intense than mine so I have no clue how you are going to make it last.

                            So lets recap:
                            Power Tour is between 3,500 and 4,000 miles for me. For me putting in a set of $800 lifters every other oil change is high maintenance!
                            I put in a set of Morel bushed lifters to see if they are more durable but they are also closer to $1,000 so they will need to be significantly better!
                            somewhat mild. Pfffft. There are some things you just have to love about "they don't build them like they used to" 21st century parts.
                            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                            • #29
                              1Bad72c10

                              Sorry I missed your PM to just now. I responded but at times I am challenged with that process. Let me know if you didn't get it and I will resend it.

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                              • #30
                                my engine should be around 1500 hp on pump gas and Ken at Borowski Racing Engines is who I am dealing with says we can probably get it down to around 1000 to 1200 hp for the street. It's going to have a hydraulic roller cam in it.

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