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Great Pumpkin Mustang build thread

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  • #46
    Fragged rotor swapped, new pads on the driver's side, bearings repacked. Whatever caliper pin grease there was had the consistency of partially-dried rubber cement and required a couple of blasts of foaming de-greaser and a flathead screwdriver to take care of. Pulled rear drums off...and I don't know if I should be happy or pissed off that I didn't find anything wrong. Wheel cylinders aren't leaking, adjusters look fine and function properly, and with the drums on, they function properly. Did a quick adjustment and took it for a test drive. Still have a half-pedal of travel before brakes kick in, but when they finally grab, they actually bring the car down. Going to do pads and bearings on the passenger side, then if I'm still concerned, will try to bleed out the system to help things along.
    Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

    "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

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    • #47
      If bleeding does not work, I would be getting a new master cylinder
      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

      PB 60' 1.49
      ​​​​​​

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      • #48
        Not writing that off yet, just want to go down the list of likely items before it comes to changing the master cylinder.
        Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

        "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

        Comment


        • #49
          Click image for larger version

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ID:	1141770Engine donor located: A one-owner 1998 Ford Explorer V8 that suffered a minor rollover. The price is right (couple hundred bucks) and should appear in my driveway in a couple of weeks. Plan is to pull the spark plugs and crank it over to clear out the cylinders, then if all looks good, to fire it up. Expecting the fuel inertia shut-off switch to be tripped, but that's an easy fix.
          Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

          "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

          Comment


          • #50
            Looks good! Don't forget to unhook the coil packs so there is not fuel and spark out side the cylinders at the same time
            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

            PB 60' 1.49
            ​​​​​​

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            • #51
              Mild and rollover should not be in the same sentence. Nothing mild about one. Good news is you get hit with everything you ever lost under the seats.
              BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

              Resident Instigator

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              • #52
                I have a GT40P motor out of a 97 in my 66 Mustang. I swapped out the stock cam for a slightly hotter 91 Mustang 5.0 cam used, a used set of 1.72 Crane Cobra roller rockers, a Wieand Stealth used, and a yard shed refugee Edelbrock I put on as is. It runs real well!

                Tom
                Overdrive is overrated


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                • #53
                  Trying to figure out this anomaly. I'm banking that the alternator is trying to give up the ghost, but I might be wrong. This is at idle, marker lights on. Does this with lights off, does it slower with headlights on until the revs come up.
                  Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

                  "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    funky voltage regulator?
                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                    • #55
                      Start with the simple stuff before buying an alternator. The charge wire connection at the back of it. Then the wire that powers the fuse box.
                      BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                      Resident Instigator

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                      • #56
                        I second the simple stuff............check that the alternator idiot light bulb is functional too....a burnt out bulb can cause a non-charging scenario believe it or not.
                        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                        • #57
                          No idiot light...has a gauge and it doesn't seem to be bothered with the flickering. It's only the lights that are pulsing. Will check out the alternator, if that passes I'll get a VR from ye olde parts store. They're loving me so far this year.

                          In other news, might have found a shop that will actually re-skin the roof. Will be checking them out soon.
                          Editor-at-Large at...well, here, of course!

                          "Remy-Z, you've outdone yourself again, I thought a Mirada was the icing on the cake of rodding, but this Imperial is the spread of little 99-cent candy letters spelling out "EAT ME" on top of that cake."

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Put a meter on the alt... It will fluctuate if there is one.. DC30 volts or smaller.
                            My cheap $2.99 HF one shows flickering withthe readout..

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                            • #59
                              Check the voltage regulator ground. If it's not good, the regulator doesn't have a good reference. My dad had this happen on his 77 Granada back in the day. First thing he did was to check the regulator grounding, his lights were flashing too.
                              Last edited by Huskinhano; January 26, 2017, 12:54 PM.
                              Tom
                              Overdrive is overrated


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                              • #60
                                I also suggets checking the Voltage regulator. I had mine go out on my 86. wouldnt hurt to have the alt checked regardless... they were piss weak 75amp alternators, I know on the later foxes, you could make a 94/95 alt work with a little wiring. that gives you 130amps enough to never have a problem again.

                                you can probably find the later fox v8 spindles and rotors for nothing on craigs list. will give you slightly bigger brakes.

                                trying to remember my fox knowledge, Im a bit rusty.

                                if you need a spare set of tail lights, Ive got a set of 79-82 tail lights in my garage. those early lights are hard to find. Ive got no use for them.
                                Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

                                War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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