Plastic Fantastic tew

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to test fit

old tank

and out

get the fuel out... was joking with my dad that between the fuel in the tank and the nickel in the tank I should be concerned they'll both disappear

now you can see what the plan was

even got pretty close lining up the fill spout - the plan all along was an offset then straight into a coupling and the filler

[1946Austin]

Nice work on the tank! Been just lurking and enjoying seeing how you put it together.

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward

welded 1/2 last night, other half tonight - and did it over a couple hours so I didn't get warping


pretty welds leak. My goal here was full penetration - thus the weld has some grey in it - key here is the HAZ is even (heat affected zone)

and all those black marks are holes - to check for leaks - I look for holes or HAZ changes

for whatever reason, this side didn't have any

then I put 7 or 8 psi in the tank, spray soapy water on the seams and blow bubbles

hmmm more bubbles

leaks fixed, clean up the tank.... next up, removal of the old tank eventually this will have tabs on the bottom so I can attach a defuser and also attach the rear panel to it

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to cap

key here is to not go fast


and be clean

hopefully crack checking tomorrow night

[SuperBuickGuy]

Tanks, Dan.

time to install the baffles

welded

braces... if you don't brace the tank (or don't brace it enough) eventually it will leak due to fatigue cracking

because I'm using hydramat, baffles have to account for that - more directly, no sump but side to side motion needs to be minimized

welded in place. tomorrow sealant and end caps

got the wheels stripped today - off to powder coating tomorrow (I hope)

[DanStokes]

The inside of that tank baffles me. (Hey, it had to be said......)

Dan

[gconnsr]

I actually thought you were joking the other day when you said your car was to loud for the track. Tank is looking good and your welding skills blow mine right out of the water.

When I was a kid they had sound checks where I used to ride my dirt bike and you just reminded me of it.

[SuperBuickGuy]

yeah... not. We're likely moving, so most of the time this weekend was that. Probably Idaho. I'm from there and there isn't a day I don't miss it..... backstory is I came to the Puget sound to go to school and accidently stayed - two failed attempts to leave - but likely going to happen before the end of summer..... but still, racing is going to happen and I did get some work done on that front.
inside view

baffle 1



in other news, old tank has to come out (and brace for the wing, and new battery box for optima battery...

I remember this view

also going to powder coat the wheels.... I can't force myself to spend 5k on schnazzy wheels that may or may not be as good as GM wheels

and a clear view of the suspension (lordy, cameras)

had to take a picture of my stock, GM mounts ;)

front is as stock as the rear

oh and dbs.... 106 now (down from 109).... not 103 like I need.... I may put a baffle on the tip or just pray the db sensor at PIR (50 feet off the ground and 50 feet from the track) reads low... part of me says 'just go to SLC' - after all, it will be about the same distance from my new home as PDX.... never imagined when I decided to go racing that this would be a big issue...

[SuperBuickGuy]

So this, I think, is going to work

reminder, 109 db, need 103... what it does is take the sharp out of the top.... dyno soon, so we'll see how it plays there... truth is the sidepipe headers do about everythng wrong - so a future thing will be new headers into the sidepipes... but that truly is a next winter deal

next - tank vent installed

got the parts to connect the hydramat to the Aeromotive A1000 pump

you cannot baffle a tank too much. Can not. in this case, there will be trimming and fabbing but this is part one of at least 2 parts

next it gets trimmed, then piano hinges on the bottom to seal.
Once that's done, it will get more side to side baffling

hopefully Sunday I'll be pressure testing...

[DanStokes]

I now have punch envy..... We had those at work.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

fuel level

I'm fairly sure these are older then me but still work fantastic on 16 ga stainless

that is not an impact driver and I wouldn't dream of using it with my punches

installed

weird, magnets stick to stainless

yet somehow they didn't before

OBX welded the inserts in place.... ugh

NO


I think round one will still be bolt the cones in place and hope it drops the dbs enough. I'm going to autox at PIR before Optima - if it works, great, if not, they toss me and I figure something out in the 6 or so weeks between that event and primetime

[SuperBuickGuy]

holes punched, holes drilled for pump

fill neck installed


return line installed

[SuperBuickGuy]

Lab inspection complete

fill neck

fill neck

the vent probably will go here

time to drill holes

[SuperBuickGuy]

final picture of brake/clutch pedal install

onto the tank - experience has taught me that head space is helpful in tank design

tack tack tack


an hour here and there and it will be done

[Loren]

Yes the developer is vital, to show the dye coming through. For finding holes you don't really need their cleaner (acetone works), mostly that works best for surface crack detection where you apply dye, then wipe it away with a -cleaner- soaked cloth, then apply developer over the top to suck dye out the same way it went in.

I paid around $15-20 each for my spray-cans at the welding supply some time back so if that price is for-real then MSC (hardly known for great prices) is the bomb.

Get it? The bomb...like spray-bomb...nevermind.