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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    time to test fit

    old tank

    and out

    get the fuel out... was joking with my dad that between the fuel in the tank and the nickel in the tank I should be concerned they'll both disappear

    now you can see what the plan was

    even got pretty close lining up the fill spout - the plan all along was an offset then straight into a coupling and the filler

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  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Nice work on the tank! Been just lurking and enjoying seeing how you put it together.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    onward

    welded 1/2 last night, other half tonight - and did it over a couple hours so I didn't get warping


    pretty welds leak. My goal here was full penetration - thus the weld has some grey in it - key here is the HAZ is even (heat affected zone)

    and all those black marks are holes - to check for leaks - I look for holes or HAZ changes

    for whatever reason, this side didn't have any

    then I put 7 or 8 psi in the tank, spray soapy water on the seams and blow bubbles

    hmmm more bubbles

    leaks fixed, clean up the tank.... next up, removal of the old tank eventually this will have tabs on the bottom so I can attach a defuser and also attach the rear panel to it

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    time to cap

    key here is to not go fast


    and be clean

    hopefully crack checking tomorrow night

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Tanks, Dan.

    time to install the baffles

    welded

    braces... if you don't brace the tank (or don't brace it enough) eventually it will leak due to fatigue cracking

    because I'm using hydramat, baffles have to account for that - more directly, no sump but side to side motion needs to be minimized

    welded in place. tomorrow sealant and end caps

    got the wheels stripped today - off to powder coating tomorrow (I hope)

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    The inside of that tank baffles me. (Hey, it had to be said......)

    Dan

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  • gconnsr
    replied
    I actually thought you were joking the other day when you said your car was to loud for the track. Tank is looking good and your welding skills blow mine right out of the water.

    When I was a kid they had sound checks where I used to ride my dirt bike and you just reminded me of it.
    Last edited by gconnsr; March 7, 2022, 12:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    yeah... not. We're likely moving, so most of the time this weekend was that. Probably Idaho. I'm from there and there isn't a day I don't miss it..... backstory is I came to the Puget sound to go to school and accidently stayed - two failed attempts to leave - but likely going to happen before the end of summer..... but still, racing is going to happen and I did get some work done on that front.
    inside view

    baffle 1



    in other news, old tank has to come out (and brace for the wing, and new battery box for optima battery...

    I remember this view

    also going to powder coat the wheels.... I can't force myself to spend 5k on schnazzy wheels that may or may not be as good as GM wheels

    and a clear view of the suspension (lordy, cameras)

    had to take a picture of my stock, GM mounts ;)

    front is as stock as the rear

    oh and dbs.... 106 now (down from 109).... not 103 like I need.... I may put a baffle on the tip or just pray the db sensor at PIR (50 feet off the ground and 50 feet from the track) reads low... part of me says 'just go to SLC' - after all, it will be about the same distance from my new home as PDX.... never imagined when I decided to go racing that this would be a big issue...
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; March 6, 2022, 10:46 PM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    So this, I think, is going to work

    reminder, 109 db, need 103... what it does is take the sharp out of the top.... dyno soon, so we'll see how it plays there... truth is the sidepipe headers do about everythng wrong - so a future thing will be new headers into the sidepipes... but that truly is a next winter deal

    next - tank vent installed

    got the parts to connect the hydramat to the Aeromotive A1000 pump

    you cannot baffle a tank too much. Can not. in this case, there will be trimming and fabbing but this is part one of at least 2 parts

    next it gets trimmed, then piano hinges on the bottom to seal.
    Once that's done, it will get more side to side baffling

    hopefully Sunday I'll be pressure testing...

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I now have punch envy..... We had those at work.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanStokes; March 2, 2022, 07:43 AM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    fuel level

    I'm fairly sure these are older then me but still work fantastic on 16 ga stainless

    that is not an impact driver and I wouldn't dream of using it with my punches

    installed

    weird, magnets stick to stainless

    yet somehow they didn't before

    OBX welded the inserts in place.... ugh

    NO


    I think round one will still be bolt the cones in place and hope it drops the dbs enough. I'm going to autox at PIR before Optima - if it works, great, if not, they toss me and I figure something out in the 6 or so weeks between that event and primetime

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    holes punched, holes drilled for pump

    fill neck installed


    return line installed

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Lab inspection complete

    fill neck

    fill neck

    the vent probably will go here

    time to drill holes

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    final picture of brake/clutch pedal install

    onto the tank - experience has taught me that head space is helpful in tank design

    tack tack tack


    an hour here and there and it will be done

    Leave a comment:


  • Loren
    replied
    Yes the developer is vital, to show the dye coming through. For finding holes you don't really need their cleaner (acetone works), mostly that works best for surface crack detection where you apply dye, then wipe it away with a -cleaner- soaked cloth, then apply developer over the top to suck dye out the same way it went in.

    I paid around $15-20 each for my spray-cans at the welding supply some time back so if that price is for-real then MSC (hardly known for great prices) is the bomb.

    Get it? The bomb...like spray-bomb...nevermind.

    Leave a comment:

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