Originally posted by Dan Barlow
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Plastic Fantastic tew
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Really Dan it isn't all that hard. It's just a series of steps and careful measurements. The allowable tolerances can all be found on line. The big thing is just to not cut any corners - for example guys will fail to measure connecting rod side clearances but they're just as critical as any of the other measurements. It's a matter of being careful, not assuming, and doing your homework. But sometimes it's cheaper to buy a crate and decent machine work is getting harder and harder to come by - though then you're at the mercy of the shop you DO find.
Dan
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I may be moving 600 miles from where I'm at now this year.... so this needs to be done and racing - though maybe not be me... I have 2 possibilities of people I trust and who are skilled enough to run it... but all of this basically means it must be turn key by Feb. 28.... so I started doing the basics of cleaning tonight
a wash
a bit of scotch wheel
cleaner
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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assembling pistons
spiral locks are not fun
but this makes it better
but some tips.... it is a two hand device,
- you need to rock the installer to get the rings to slip past the piston
- you should hold onto the spiral lock so it doesn't turn with the tool
- oil is your friend
and it does work... but the first took 45 minutes, I finished the other 7 in 45 minutes
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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time to ask for opinions:
1) what clutch would you recommend? there is a theory that this could make far more than the 700 I estimated (mostly because Engine Masters tested a motor with exactly the same specs (head, cam, compression, bore/stroke) and made north of 850 hp). Disregard that, what clutch for 700 hp?
2) oil accumulators - worth it? I have questions on these. If there's a 3 quart accumulator - does that mean a 7 quart capacity motor has 10 quarts or the motor is running 3 quarters low in the pan?
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Posttime to ask for opinions:
2) oil accumulators - worth it? I have questions on these. If there's a 3 quart accumulator - does that mean a 7 quart capacity motor has 10 quarts or the motor is running 3 quarters low in the pan?
Here is a link from Canton (2 quart Accusump) that walks you through an oil change process:
How to change your engine oil with an Accusump. Oil changes with an Accusump can be intimidating. They don't need to be.
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Originally posted by silver_bullet View PostDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by Beagle View PostThinking dry sump, oil in the pan has to be controlled. If there's enough for the pickup to get wet oil, it's enough. Too much more = windage and frothy oil = hp loss and pump can't deliver flow.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
dry sump = $5,000.... uh, no.
You have to find a place for the pump (depending on how many sections it has - could be problematic), another drive pulley changes the stack on the front of the engine and has an exposed oil pump belt. Then you have to find a place for the external oil tank and all the plumbing. There are benefits beyond just oil control, you can add a vacuum section and improve ring seal. I have always wanted to try one but it seems on a real street car that they aren't very practical.
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Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
Not to mention the ergonomics - where are you going to put all that stuff?
You have to find a place for the pump (depending on how many sections it has - could be problematic), another drive pulley changes the stack on the front of the engine and has an exposed oil pump belt. Then you have to find a place for the external oil tank and all the plumbing. There are benefits beyond just oil control, you can add a vacuum section and improve ring seal. I have always wanted to try one but it seems on a real street car that they aren't very practical.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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