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  • Originally posted by Dan Barlow View Post
    I admire you guys that are willing to build or try to build your engines . I'm a coward . I've paid a shop to build the one engine I've souped up ( mild 300 hp build ) and over all turned out well enough that if another engine is needed I'll probably do the same or buy a crate motor from gm or blueprint . Again, that's off and hoping it turns out great this time .
    been burned and seen others burned far too many times to go that route....
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • Really Dan it isn't all that hard. It's just a series of steps and careful measurements. The allowable tolerances can all be found on line. The big thing is just to not cut any corners - for example guys will fail to measure connecting rod side clearances but they're just as critical as any of the other measurements. It's a matter of being careful, not assuming, and doing your homework. But sometimes it's cheaper to buy a crate and decent machine work is getting harder and harder to come by - though then you're at the mercy of the shop you DO find.

      Dan

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      • Parts start arriving (again)

        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • more parts now weighed and ready for assembly...but waiting for the tool
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • I may be moving 600 miles from where I'm at now this year.... so this needs to be done and racing - though maybe not be me... I have 2 possibilities of people I trust and who are skilled enough to run it... but all of this basically means it must be turn key by Feb. 28.... so I started doing the basics of cleaning tonight
            a wash


            a bit of scotch wheel



            cleaner

            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • Nice looking! But I can't imagine moving just your shop, let alone a complete household!! Yikes!

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              • assembling pistons


                spiral locks are not fun


                but this makes it better

                but some tips.... it is a two hand device,
                - you need to rock the installer to get the rings to slip past the piston
                - you should hold onto the spiral lock so it doesn't turn with the tool
                - oil is your friend
                and it does work... but the first took 45 minutes, I finished the other 7 in 45 minutes

                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                • time to ask for opinions:
                  1) what clutch would you recommend? there is a theory that this could make far more than the 700 I estimated (mostly because Engine Masters tested a motor with exactly the same specs (head, cam, compression, bore/stroke) and made north of 850 hp). Disregard that, what clutch for 700 hp?
                  2) oil accumulators - worth it? I have questions on these. If there's a 3 quart accumulator - does that mean a 7 quart capacity motor has 10 quarts or the motor is running 3 quarters low in the pan?
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                    time to ask for opinions:
                    2) oil accumulators - worth it? I have questions on these. If there's a 3 quart accumulator - does that mean a 7 quart capacity motor has 10 quarts or the motor is running 3 quarters low in the pan?
                    MY opinion ~ 10 quarts!
                    Here is a link from Canton (2 quart Accusump) that walks you through an oil change process:

                    How to change your engine oil with an Accusump. Oil changes with an Accusump can be intimidating. They don't need to be.

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                    • From 800HP to 2000HP, McLeod Twin Disc Clutches are available for Modular Mustang, Fox Body, GM, LS and more!

                      Patrick & Tammy
                      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                      • I had to buy a clutch today - I did buy a McLeod but that clutch won't work with the BBC (or SBC).... I tried this, still have its remnants about
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • Thinking dry sump, oil in the pan has to be controlled. If there's enough for the pickup to get wet oil, it's enough. Too much more = windage and frothy oil = hp loss and pump can't deliver flow.
                          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                          • Originally posted by Beagle View Post
                            Thinking dry sump, oil in the pan has to be controlled. If there's enough for the pickup to get wet oil, it's enough. Too much more = windage and frothy oil = hp loss and pump can't deliver flow.
                            dry sump = $5,000.... uh, no.
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                              dry sump = $5,000.... uh, no.
                              Not to mention the ergonomics - where are you going to put all that stuff?
                              You have to find a place for the pump (depending on how many sections it has - could be problematic), another drive pulley changes the stack on the front of the engine and has an exposed oil pump belt. Then you have to find a place for the external oil tank and all the plumbing. There are benefits beyond just oil control, you can add a vacuum section and improve ring seal. I have always wanted to try one but it seems on a real street car that they aren't very practical.

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                              • Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                                Not to mention the ergonomics - where are you going to put all that stuff?
                                You have to find a place for the pump (depending on how many sections it has - could be problematic), another drive pulley changes the stack on the front of the engine and has an exposed oil pump belt. Then you have to find a place for the external oil tank and all the plumbing. There are benefits beyond just oil control, you can add a vacuum section and improve ring seal. I have always wanted to try one but it seems on a real street car that they aren't very practical.
                                If I was ever to make this a full-on race car, I have quite a bit of room... but now? yeah, under the hood would be a challenge
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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