Plastic Fantastic tew

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to build

cam bearings in




rear plug in place

my clever way of figuring out which bolts hold the windage tray

studly

.042 above the deck


I figured when it took .040 to get the deck right that I'd be using spacer gaskets... 080 to the rescue

and while I'm at it, mark the balancer



in other news, this idea needs some work... I'm not a fan of using the aluminum steering shaft, but welding aluminum to steel is beyond my abilities

so that's a Camaro one.... problem is it's splined rather than flatted.... I may fix that... but we'll see

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward with the motor.
$15.00 engine bags? uh no, how about 10 for $35.00 100 gallon trash tote liners?

measure the end play

to spec
eyeball the scraper

seems fine

hmm... problem

clean and reassemble the oil pump (with new pickup)


time to assemble pistons (can't do the scraper without the pistons in)

and yet.... it's now a 4 cylinder

[1946Austin]

Curious how the pan seals on the scraper side? Do you use gasket maker below the scraper, and then just a normal pan gasket over it? Or how does it seal on that scraper?

[SuperBuickGuy]

Curious how the pan seals on the scraper side? Do you use gasket maker below the scraper, and then just a normal pan gasket over it? Or how does it seal on that scraper?

I haven't googled that far so I don't know....

[cstmwgn]

I haven't googled that far so I don't know....

In only an attempt to share my experience, here is what I did
First, being a ford guy - I had to make my scrapper from scratch so I made a full length one. It looked like in the picture that the one you have doesn't go from main cap to main cap.
Anyway, I silicone sealed it to the block and pan then used the other side of the pan gasket with the factory rubber seals over the main caps. It was fun getting the pan off but it sealed well. One of my drag race buddies said he used silicone everywhere - over the main caps and on both pan rails. Not sure how far off the bottom your pickup is but of course that could be effected by your approach to sealing it up.

I am sure the internet has a better solution.

[65RHDEER]

When I built a 327 for a my boat I was told and I used contact adhesive but I can't remember where I got that info from!
Made sure there was a good film on both and set it in position and clamped it down with a piece of angle drilled for the sump bolts, let it set up before installing the sump. Used a paper clip for as a minimum to set the clearance.



Boat motor has a dog clutch driving off the snout.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Storytime... doesn't include scraper... well, it doesn't end in a scraper
but first things first, I owe the motor 4 more pistons
number 8.... and yes, I bought a one-size piston ring compressor.... break one ring, once, and you'll (like me) think this is cheap insurance


started marking it out

realized that I'd take most of it off... for very little (if any) benefit

because there is also a windage tray

however, as I pointed out before - it hits the pan


next up, remove the stud, cut 3/8" off, reinstall...

[65RHDEER]

I used a cutting disk on my 4" to shape the scraper, found I could creep up to the clearance I wanted.

[cstmwgn]

Storytime...

I realized my explanation last night wasn't clear/accurate so I dug out an old picture.



This was the first iteration at oil control.
The second iteration moved the scraper from the pan rail to the pan. Basically bent it 90* and bolted it to the pan. This provided a couple of advantages. The first one was I could use the later 1 piece oil pan gasket and two by bolting it to the pan instead of welding it, I could adjust the clearance with thin washers.

The third iteration was to throw it in the trash as the benefit on a street car didn't seem to be significant.

[SuperBuickGuy]

The third iteration was to throw it in the trash as the benefit on a street car didn't seem to be significant.

I went straight to this one when I realized how little it would help....

[SuperBuickGuy]

To be clear about something. I measured the main caps with the original bolts and with the studs torqued to spec, there was no difference in diameter IN CAPITAL LETTERS, YOU MUST CHECK THIS but in this case, there was no need to hone.

[SuperBuickGuy]

trimmed

wooohooo?

ah no
look close, the back is too high


I suspect it's hitting the rear stands... but tomorrow I'm getting a replacement endoscope and can check easily enough.... still hope to have it in the car this weekend.
though, before I noticed the pan was too far back - I measured the clearance.... 1/2" is enough



time to find all the pieces to degree the cam

it's been long enough that I forgot the degree wheel attaches to the crank spinner

[langleylad]

Years ago I attempted to install a crank scrapper on a small block I was building . I totally lost my patience trying to and threw it in the garbage . Not worth the hassle to me .

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward
as much as I hated the thought, these were hitting too


I may not have charitable thoughts towards Moroso.... but then again, GM really didn't move those around at all

just a bit of grinding and cutting and it fits fine


have to set the cam button, but need the gasket in place


and check clearance... it 'should' be fine, now I know it will be fine



I love a well-studded head

starting to look like a motor again

[1946Austin]

I love studded motors too! Just a much better system in my opinion.
I usually set my cam button to touch the cover without a gasket, and then the gasket installed gives me the clearance I want.