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Originally posted by Dan Barlow View PostI can't remember off the top of my head what you used for those but , the machines at work have these little festo air cylinders or ramps that I was thinking about using on my 87 GTA /TA that would have been that fast . I like it !Doing it all wrong since 1966
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onto more fixes.
Coolant, the outlet is higher then the top of the radiator - thus I need a bleeder at the highest point.
the problem
remove
180 degree thermostat with hole drilled (which is what's keeping it from overheating since the other side is actually above the radiator.
hmmm... no picture of the fix... tomorrow
onto wires
I'm not a fan of the pertronix ceramic boots.... that said, if you buy enough of them, eventually they stay on
while I was at it, I did some nicer wire looms
then onto the task I'm not quite done with.... advance
I went from the heaviest springs (all in by 2800) to the lightest - which actually start the advance at 800 rpm and all in by 2500
next is a limiter - but I need to both back the timing way off (it's at 18 degrees now - should be around 10)... I also need to put an adjustable vacuum cannister on it - at idle it should be adding advance (save the starter and give advance when loping along at freeway speeds) but it most certainly won't because it takes 10 hg to move it and 15 to fully open it. If this motor makes 10 hg anywhere, I'd be surprised
more tomorrow.
in other news, I'm running straight 30w - and oil pressure isn't a problem... go figureDoing it all wrong since 1966
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final picture of the vent
on to other issues... vacuum leak(s)
the problem started with being unable to keep it running with less then 20 degrees static.....
now it'll run at 9 and is at 17. 21 degrees comes in starting at 1000 rpm then is all in by 2000 for a total of 38 degrees.... I'll run it then see how the plugs look
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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the sucky part of all of this is now I have to retune it....
I'll say it outloud - I think the dyno numbers were really low for what it is and I'm not sure the FiTech is working correctly - the base gasket smelled like fuel....
ah well, hot rods and learning. not complainingLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; April 30, 2021, 09:33 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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oh good grief
This is new
oh good, I get to buy another freaking set of push rods.... see the witness mark? it's on all the rocker arms
this side is 'fine' .... started here, adjusted valves.
time to wire a starter bump switch
and yesterday's stuff just didn't end, this is a click-to-on switch, not a momentary switch (as advertised)
so another switch later
and bumping can occur. pushrods arrive tomorrow... they're nearly 1/2" longer
by memory, stock is like 8.280 intake, 9.250 exhaust so these line up, 8.700 for the intake, and 9.550 exhaust. One of the problems, before, you might remember was the head studs were substantially shorter then the new ARP studs.... then the poly locks are shorter - presumptively to clear short valve covers - and it's the hex end that's actually doing the hitting...
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Valve adjusting.
Hot lash is .016, since it was stone cold, I set it to .009
turns out that was really close. Warmed the car up and had to adjust a few valves but overall, about 50% of them didn't need adjustment. That said, I did reset them so that I'd get a good 'set' with the allen screw. I drove it, it sounds great, I'll drive it again tomorrow (more then a mile) then check the set. If I don't have to adjust, I'll leave it for 100 miles then check it again. my goal is 500 road miles before Optima....
in other news, I should probably change the exhaust oil seals on the passenger side... I think one is leakingDoing it all wrong since 1966
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