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Plastic Fantastic tew

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  • Loren
    replied
    Tank is looking great...I'm imagining this is taking advantage of no-longer-used spare tire space, what's the capacity?

    Stripping vinyl off old material sucks bad. Hours of not-fun.

    I had long-ago planned on building a tank for the Camaro, primarily for having something baffled to quell the side-to-side slosh/slam. Maybe in a few months.

    I had to look in my cabinet to see what kind of penetrant stuff I had, it's Fault Finder brand, ten bucks each for red and white at MSC: Crack Detection Kits & Components - Crack Detection - MSC Industrial Supply (mscdirect.com)

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    somewhere in my workings, pedals will happen


    might as well use my aeromotive pump

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Tanks for posting this! (sorry.......)

    Dan
    it's totally tubular, man!

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Tanks for posting this! (sorry.......)

    Dan

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    onward
    I think I ended up using every C-clamp I have

    I also made an adjustable right angle to hold it square. If you're doing this, don't lure yourself into just welding it then pipe clamping it square.

    weld a bit, let cool, dolly, repeat

    once the outside is welded, I run a hot bead down the inside with an aluminum bar against the outside - it sucks the weld 'flat' with the top... less grinding to make pretty


    woohoo, I made a tube



    crack check, then baffles, sump, fill neck and finally end caps

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Loren View Post
    Spray dye on one side, white powdery stuff on the other, wait a while or better yet overnight, the tiniest pinhole will suck dye through to the white and show a red spot...better than soap and air pressure, etc. although that has its' place...penetrant testing is an aerospace-acceptable method for proving no leaks incl. holes, cracks and cold-shuts and it gets me every time on at-least one or two little places or more. And then they get fixed and we're all good.

    Edit: You might be able to buy just the two cans from a welding supply and not a whole "kit", acetone cleans it up fine, the spray cleaner they have is used more for finding cracks in a surface where you soak it in dye, then apply cleaner to a rag and wipe it off, then spray developer and the dye will come up from any cracks it's gone into and show up that way.
    In looking about, they may not make it anymore - whatever is out there is old-stock.

    We used to check with blue dye and a black light. What a mess it made, though.

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  • Loren
    replied
    Spray dye on one side, white powdery stuff on the other, wait a while or better yet overnight, the tiniest pinhole will suck dye through to the white and show a red spot...better than soap and air pressure, etc. although that has its' place...penetrant testing is an aerospace-acceptable method for proving no leaks incl. holes, cracks and cold-shuts and it gets me every time on at-least one or two little places or more. And then they get fixed and we're all good.

    Edit: You might be able to buy just the two cans from a welding supply and not a whole "kit", acetone cleans it up fine, the spray cleaner they have is used more for finding cracks in a surface where you soak it in dye, then apply cleaner to a rag and wipe it off, then spray developer and the dye will come up from any cracks it's gone into and show up that way.
    Last edited by Loren; February 14, 2022, 09:21 PM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Loren View Post

    I'd butt-weld it for looks but all I really gotta say is however you do it, this stuff..

    Click image for larger version Name:	spotcheck.jpg Views:	0 Size:	14.0 KB ID:	1314200
    ...has rapped me 'cross the knuckles a few times, particularly on cold starts/corners, and crossing tacks. I wouldn't do a tank without it.
    I'll have to try it.

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  • Loren
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    Loren .... lap it or butt weld it?
    I'd butt-weld it for looks but all I really gotta say is however you do it, this stuff..

    Click image for larger version  Name:	spotcheck.jpg Views:	0 Size:	14.0 KB ID:	1314200
    ...has rapped me 'cross the knuckles a few times, particularly on cold starts/corners, and crossing tacks. I wouldn't do a tank without it.

    Last edited by Loren; February 14, 2022, 05:12 AM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Tanks for the memories?
    with my gear, precision rolls are not a likely result...

    what stopped me tonight is I need more clamps.... seriously

    drove it yesterday, this is too restrictive so went back to the old air filter

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  • Captain
    replied
    I'M watching this........
    I need a larger tank for the Marrakesh Express, as the Rear tank was removed in the "Police Surveillance Build".

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    you know the day is going to go bell up when you're using a razor blade to clean PVC off stainless. Basically it adds hours of refinishing because no matter how good you are, you'll scratch it..... and before someone pipes up 'ceramic - that scratches it too.... just doesn't last as long


    time to assemble the internal stuff - Hydramat


    I'm using a lot of parts I've had around... like the hydramat from the first fuel system


    Loren .... lap it or butt weld it?

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Captain View Post
    Excellent !

    You are Enabling Me !!
    remember that the dies cost far more then the machine. These old machines are pretty much banned in commercial settings - so you get them for, basically, scrap value.

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  • Captain
    replied
    Excellent !

    You are Enabling Me !!

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Captain View Post
    KOOL,
    I wish I had 3 phase in My Buildings so I could buy Tools like that !!!
    I don't have 3 phase, I have VFDs. That said, the brake is run on a 220v air compressor motor.

    Leave a comment:

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