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  • We need a "Bummer Dude" button alongside the "Like" button. But good you found the leak and hopefully a little tightening will fix it.

    Dan

    Comment


    • shop full of C3s

      time to fix an exhaust leak

      guaranteed.... just like the last one


      also did some fixes on the cooling system.
      about the trans
      it was overfull


      which could be the leak... I'll know tomorrow...

      PS C3
      it's getting a rear suspension... the old one was VERY worn out... so it's getting a full upgrade



      then a motor.... then a front coil-over...
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

      Comment


      • back to exhaust gaskets

        and replaced


        and back to 400# springs in the front

        and done
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

        Comment


        • you need round port exhaust gaskets. the 'corners' on the ones you have are where its leaking.
          i have much better luck with round port to match pip[e side. put a round gasket on head and a
          square gasket on pipe, and youll see why i do this. i also make sure if its a 2" pipe, i have a 2"
          round port gasket not a 2-1/8" or 2-1/4"....

          Comment


          • Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
            you need round port exhaust gaskets. the 'corners' on the ones you have are where its leaking.
            i have much better luck with round port to match pip[e side. put a round gasket on head and a
            square gasket on pipe, and youll see why i do this. i also make sure if its a 2" pipe, i have a 2"
            round port gasket not a 2-1/8" or 2-1/4"....
            port isn't round - but I think I found the issue.... the header bolts were too long
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

            Comment


            • this post makes little sense without another post done elsewhere

              In wheel searching... I came across this at https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...ment-Guide#htr

              Wheels

              Front: 18x11" ET38 // Rear: 19x12.5” ET55
              Available in: SM-10
              Popular Fitment
              Tires

              APEX Staff Pick: Front 315/30-18 // Rear 325/30-19
              A minimum of -2 front and -1.5 rear camber suggested
              Extreme Performance Summer: Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
              R-Compound: Nitto NT01 (100TW), Toyo R888R (100TW), Nankang AR-1 (100TW)
              Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW)
              Wider Alternative: Front 315/30-18 // Rear 345/30-19
              A minimum of -2 front and -1.5 rear camber suggested
              Extreme Performance Summer: Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
              R-Compound: No options currently available
              Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW)
              Narrower Alternative: Front 295/30-18 // Rear 325/30-19
              A minimum of -2 front and -1.5 rear camber suggested
              Extreme Performance Summer: Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
              R-Compound: Pirelli Trofeo R (60 TW), Nankang AR-1 (100 TW)
              Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW)

              not sure I can stuff a 315 under the front but maybe a 295?

              Another thing, I need to find some C7 flares.... maybe that would be the best way to get the tire/wheel I want under the car....
              Currently, I think I'm -1.5 degrees front and maybe -1.0 rear.... now I've got to check


              Okay quote and what is right now.
              -1.1 F camber
              -.9 rear

              .30* TO (or 1/8" TO)

              I was asked to measure steering angle.

              all at 25*
              3/4" TO
              3.6 degrees (I think)
              -1.75 camber inside
              -1.375 camber outside

              I sound 'smart' but the terms come from this article
              https://ismasupers.com/downloads/tec...steering-4.pdf

              pretty pictures


              Doing it all wrong since 1966

              Comment


              • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                port isn't round - but I think I found the issue.... the header bolts were too long
                yes dear-- i know the heads exhaust port aint round. but the PIPE (header tube) is......
                long header bolts will do it too--but if it persists, try a round port gasket. its worked
                great for me for decades.

                Comment


                • Other Corvette's control arms

                  and new battery for PF2
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

                  Comment


                  • trans oil leak. Yeah, I get it, I can always just add lube AND the level will never get to critical... but still.

                    driveshaft out

                    new seal kit

                    trans out

                    bright side is there is no oil on the inside of the bellhousing

                    it might be that just the tail housing gasket was leaking, and yes, it's a lot more work to do it right


                    so sue me. The other side of that story is the counter-shaft may be loosening in its bore. Now, I can 'just' replace the case. Let it go long enough and it'll destroy everything
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

                    Comment


                    • the tl;dr is I think the mid-plate is cracked... but I'm going to run it
                      so
                      they say you should pull the main shaft out to pull the midplate....
                      no, you don't


                      the came a gasket search. I'm not convinced the rebuilder made a mistake - granted, the gasket he used was leaking - but still, there's probably a crack here somewhere


                      more gasket fun



                      somewhere on here

                      see the dirty blank spaces? those were both sealed and clean 300 miles ago

                      then there was the moment Luigi was laying at my feet while I dropped a gasket sealant brush on him.... oops

                      replaced the bushings while I was at it



                      back in and leaking.... we won't talk about how it's sealed now

                      in other news, I can now use my laptop to program the Sniper


                      and in still other news


                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

                      Comment


                      • Thinking out loud.

                        I could replace the midplate, but if you look closely at the case, you'll see the counter-shaft bore is oblong - which means a new case too. Believe it or not, these are very popular and parts are available, new, for them... including upgrades.

                        I'm pretty sure my Right Stuff tempenant (or permanary?) fix will hold until winter but the writing is on the wall... so what to chose - so far these seem to be the choices.

                        1) Doug Nash 5 speed ($3600)
                        2) New Super t-10 with upgrades ($2500)
                        3) fix and pray ($1000)
                        4) TKX at $3500
                        5) T56 - $2500 (found one for that with all the upgrades)

                        1) - complaints about clunky and a pain when cold - not just that but supply is questionable... that said, probably the least expensive option that will handle what I dish out.
                        2) - highest rating I've found is 325 ft lbs -though rumor is they can handle more....
                        3) cheapest - and it leaves me with a spare or sellable trans
                        4) they can't seem to come up with a price, but I think if I do this one, I'll spend the 'extra' and get the one rated to 900 ft. lbs (stock is 600)
                        5) requires replacement of my bellhousing so could be the most expensive (and could require hydraulic clutch change)..Could also be the cheapest, but it never works that way for me....
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

                        Comment


                        • I like what I've read of the TKX, thinking I'd like one where I have a Muncie.
                          Be good to see someone else play with one before I get one dragged around the world.
                          Tim
                          Melbourne Australia

                          65 Hardtop Impala, 70 GTS Monaro, 93 "80" Landcruiser

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                            Thinking out loud.

                            I could replace the midplate, but if you look closely at the case, you'll see the counter-shaft bore is oblong - which means a new case too. Believe it or not, these are very popular and parts are available, new, for them... including upgrades.

                            I'm pretty sure my Right Stuff tempenant (or permanary?) fix will hold until winter but the writing is on the wall... so what to chose - so far these seem to be the choices.

                            1) Doug Nash 5 speed ($3600)
                            2) New Super t-10 with upgrades ($2500)
                            3) fix and pray ($1000)
                            4) TKX at $3500
                            5) T56 - $2500 (found one for that with all the upgrades)

                            1) - complaints about clunky and a pain when cold - not just that but supply is questionable... that said, probably the least expensive option that will handle what I dish out.
                            2) - highest rating I've found is 325 ft lbs -though rumor is they can handle more....
                            3) cheapest - and it leaves me with a spare or sellable trans
                            4) they can't seem to come up with a price, but I think if I do this one, I'll spend the 'extra' and get the one rated to 900 ft. lbs (stock is 600)
                            5) requires replacement of my bellhousing so could be the most expensive (and could require hydraulic clutch change)..Could also be the cheapest, but it never works that way for me....


                            #6) (and most obvious choice) replace it with a muncie. i know, i know--you think the T10 is stronger..

                            its not.

                            TRUST me, sister...heres a quote from

                            https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/gu...transmissions/



                            The Saginaw four-speed box is quite similar to both the T-10 and Muncie four-speed transmissions.
                            However, neither compares to the Muncie in terms of strength.
                            .........., GM took the basic T-10 design and beefed it up to conceive the Muncie M20 and M21
                            four-speed transmissions, which arrived in 1963.



                            true, dont believe everything you read on the internet. that being said... ive personally had 3 super T10
                            trannys break. all pushed the countershaft out the bottom (like your elongated hole is telegraphing...)
                            and cracked/split case. ( remember me saying i could draw a line on your T10 with a magic marker to
                            show you right where its gonna break? the "grand canyon" is the culprit.) the T10 was "rated" to 300ftlb
                            if i remember right, with the 'super' T10 at 350ftlb and the muncie 450ftlb. we ran a lowly M20 wide ratio
                            in a nasty tunnelrammed 440 (chevy 427 +.060) in a 68 camaro that hit the 9.90 jr pro gas index,
                            7500+rpm launches on slicks for 3 seasons, never broke the muncie. im sure the 5:87 gears helped,
                            but i personally wont run T10s, 700r4 or 4l60es, etc., for a REASON.....

                            as with everything else--your car / your money. just hate seeing you beat your head against
                            the wall..... kinda.



                            Last edited by fatguyzinc; August 22, 2021, 11:50 PM.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post



                              #6) (and most obvious choice) replace it with a muncie. i know, i know--you think the T10 is stronger..

                              its not.

                              TRUST me, sister...heres a quote from

                              https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/gu...transmissions/



                              The Saginaw four-speed box is quite similar to both the T-10 and Muncie four-speed transmissions.
                              However, neither compares to the Muncie in terms of strength.
                              .........., GM took the basic T-10 design and beefed it up to conceive the Muncie M20 and M21
                              four-speed transmissions, which arrived in 1963.



                              true, dont believe everything you read on the internet. that being said... ive personally had 3 super T10
                              trannys break. all pushed the countershaft out the bottom (like your elongated hole is telegraphing...)
                              and cracked/split case. ( remember me saying i could draw a line on your T10 with a magic marker to
                              show you right where its gonna break? the "grand canyon" is the culprit.) the T10 was "rated" to 300ftlb
                              if i remember right, with the 'super' T10 at 350ftlb and the muncie 450ftlb. we ran a lowly M20 wide ratio
                              in a nasty tunnelrammed 440 (chevy 427 +.060) in a 68 camaro that hit the 9.90 jr pro gas index,
                              7500+rpm launches on slicks for 3 seasons, never broke the muncie. im sure the 5:87 gears helped,
                              but i personally wont run T10s, 700r4 or 4l60es, etc., for a REASON.....

                              as with everything else--your car / your money. just hate seeing you beat your head against
                              the wall..... kinda.


                              we've had this discussion before. same answer as before. I'm not replacing an old transmission with an old transmission that has fewer parts available. I've broke one of those, actually 3 of them... behind a far whimpier 454. Thanks, though.
                              Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; August 23, 2021, 06:41 AM.
                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

                              Comment


                              • so a bit about P2
                                Great Stuff has become my go-to stuff for sealing impossible leaks... it's at it again with my trans

                                time to attach the console cover plate better

                                bracket built

                                installed


                                Paul's car is back on the road.... needs an alignment but a bit of muffling for the summer so he can enjoy it until it gets rotten weather.... and now it's safe to drive
                                the old wheels were held on with the wrong lug nuts so it destroyed all of them
                                but new wheels

                                need to do some altitude adjustment but they look really good

                                Luigi felt his advice was necessary

                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

                                Comment

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