you need round port exhaust gaskets. the 'corners' on the ones you have are where its leaking.
i have much better luck with round port to match pip[e side. put a round gasket on head and a
square gasket on pipe, and youll see why i do this. i also make sure if its a 2" pipe, i have a 2"
round port gasket not a 2-1/8" or 2-1/4"....
you need round port exhaust gaskets. the 'corners' on the ones you have are where its leaking.
i have much better luck with round port to match pip[e side. put a round gasket on head and a
square gasket on pipe, and youll see why i do this. i also make sure if its a 2" pipe, i have a 2"
round port gasket not a 2-1/8" or 2-1/4"....
port isn't round - but I think I found the issue.... the header bolts were too long
Front: 18x11" ET38 // Rear: 19x12.5” ET55
Available in: SM-10
Popular Fitment
Tires
APEX Staff Pick: Front 315/30-18 // Rear 325/30-19
A minimum of -2º front and -1.5º rear camber suggested
Extreme Performance Summer: Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
R-Compound: Nitto NT01 (100TW), Toyo R888R (100TW), Nankang AR-1 (100TW)
Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW)
Wider Alternative: Front 315/30-18 // Rear 345/30-19
A minimum of -2º front and -1.5º rear camber suggested
Extreme Performance Summer: Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
R-Compound: No options currently available
Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW)
Narrower Alternative: Front 295/30-18 // Rear 325/30-19
A minimum of -2º front and -1.5º rear camber suggested
Extreme Performance Summer: Continental Extremecontact Force (200 TW)
R-Compound: Pirelli Trofeo R (60 TW), Nankang AR-1 (100 TW)
Semi-Slick: Hoosier A7 (40TW), Hoosier R7 (40TW)
not sure I can stuff a 315 under the front but maybe a 295?
Another thing, I need to find some C7 flares.... maybe that would be the best way to get the tire/wheel I want under the car....
Currently, I think I'm -1.5 degrees front and maybe -1.0 rear.... now I've got to check
Okay quote and what is right now.
-1.1 F camber
-.9 rear
.30* TO (or 1/8" TO)
I was asked to measure steering angle.
all at 25*
3/4" TO
3.6 degrees (I think)
-1.75 camber inside
-1.375 camber outside
port isn't round - but I think I found the issue.... the header bolts were too long
yes dear-- i know the heads exhaust port aint round. but the PIPE (header tube) is......
long header bolts will do it too--but if it persists, try a round port gasket. its worked
great for me for decades.
trans oil leak. Yeah, I get it, I can always just add lube AND the level will never get to critical... but still.
driveshaft out
new seal kit
trans out
bright side is there is no oil on the inside of the bellhousing
it might be that just the tail housing gasket was leaking, and yes, it's a lot more work to do it right
so sue me. The other side of that story is the counter-shaft may be loosening in its bore. Now, I can 'just' replace the case. Let it go long enough and it'll destroy everything
the tl;dr is I think the mid-plate is cracked... but I'm going to run it
so
they say you should pull the main shaft out to pull the midplate....
no, you don't
the came a gasket search. I'm not convinced the rebuilder made a mistake - granted, the gasket he used was leaking - but still, there's probably a crack here somewhere
more gasket fun
somewhere on here
see the dirty blank spaces? those were both sealed and clean 300 miles ago
then there was the moment Luigi was laying at my feet while I dropped a gasket sealant brush on him.... oops
replaced the bushings while I was at it
back in and leaking.... we won't talk about how it's sealed now
in other news, I can now use my laptop to program the Sniper
I could replace the midplate, but if you look closely at the case, you'll see the counter-shaft bore is oblong - which means a new case too. Believe it or not, these are very popular and parts are available, new, for them... including upgrades.
I'm pretty sure my Right Stuff tempenant (or permanary?) fix will hold until winter but the writing is on the wall... so what to chose - so far these seem to be the choices.
1) Doug Nash 5 speed ($3600)
2) New Super t-10 with upgrades ($2500)
3) fix and pray ($1000)
4) TKX at $3500
5) T56 - $2500 (found one for that with all the upgrades)
1) - complaints about clunky and a pain when cold - not just that but supply is questionable... that said, probably the least expensive option that will handle what I dish out.
2) - highest rating I've found is 325 ft lbs -though rumor is they can handle more....
3) cheapest - and it leaves me with a spare or sellable trans
4) they can't seem to come up with a price, but I think if I do this one, I'll spend the 'extra' and get the one rated to 900 ft. lbs (stock is 600)
5) requires replacement of my bellhousing so could be the most expensive (and could require hydraulic clutch change)..Could also be the cheapest, but it never works that way for me....
I like what I've read of the TKX, thinking I'd like one where I have a Muncie.
Be good to see someone else play with one before I get one dragged around the world.
I could replace the midplate, but if you look closely at the case, you'll see the counter-shaft bore is oblong - which means a new case too. Believe it or not, these are very popular and parts are available, new, for them... including upgrades.
I'm pretty sure my Right Stuff tempenant (or permanary?) fix will hold until winter but the writing is on the wall... so what to chose - so far these seem to be the choices.
1) Doug Nash 5 speed ($3600)
2) New Super t-10 with upgrades ($2500)
3) fix and pray ($1000)
4) TKX at $3500
5) T56 - $2500 (found one for that with all the upgrades)
1) - complaints about clunky and a pain when cold - not just that but supply is questionable... that said, probably the least expensive option that will handle what I dish out.
2) - highest rating I've found is 325 ft lbs -though rumor is they can handle more....
3) cheapest - and it leaves me with a spare or sellable trans
4) they can't seem to come up with a price, but I think if I do this one, I'll spend the 'extra' and get the one rated to 900 ft. lbs (stock is 600)
5) requires replacement of my bellhousing so could be the most expensive (and could require hydraulic clutch change)..Could also be the cheapest, but it never works that way for me....
#6) (and most obvious choice) replace it with a muncie. i know, i know--you think the T10 is stronger..
The Saginaw four-speed box is quite similar to both the T-10 and Muncie four-speed transmissions.
However, neither compares to the Muncie in terms of strength.
.........., GM took the basic T-10 design and beefed it up to conceive the Muncie M20 and M21
four-speed transmissions, which arrived in 1963.
true, dont believe everything you read on the internet. that being said... ive personally had 3 super T10
trannys break. all pushed the countershaft out the bottom (like your elongated hole is telegraphing...)
and cracked/split case. ( remember me saying i could draw a line on your T10 with a magic marker to
show you right where its gonna break? the "grand canyon" is the culprit.) the T10 was "rated" to 300ftlb
if i remember right, with the 'super' T10 at 350ftlb and the muncie 450ftlb. we ran a lowly M20 wide ratio
in a nasty tunnelrammed 440 (chevy 427 +.060) in a 68 camaro that hit the 9.90 jr pro gas index,
7500+rpm launches on slicks for 3 seasons, never broke the muncie. im sure the 5:87 gears helped,
but i personally wont run T10s, 700r4 or 4l60es, etc., for a REASON.....
as with everything else--your car / your money. just hate seeing you beat your head against
the wall..... kinda.
Last edited by fatguyzinc; August 22, 2021, 11:50 PM.
The Saginaw four-speed box is quite similar to both the T-10 and Muncie four-speed transmissions.
However, neither compares to the Muncie in terms of strength.
.........., GM took the basic T-10 design and beefed it up to conceive the Muncie M20 and M21
four-speed transmissions, which arrived in 1963.
true, dont believe everything you read on the internet. that being said... ive personally had 3 super T10
trannys break. all pushed the countershaft out the bottom (like your elongated hole is telegraphing...)
and cracked/split case. ( remember me saying i could draw a line on your T10 with a magic marker to
show you right where its gonna break? the "grand canyon" is the culprit.) the T10 was "rated" to 300ftlb
if i remember right, with the 'super' T10 at 350ftlb and the muncie 450ftlb. we ran a lowly M20 wide ratio
in a nasty tunnelrammed 440 (chevy 427 +.060) in a 68 camaro that hit the 9.90 jr pro gas index,
7500+rpm launches on slicks for 3 seasons, never broke the muncie. im sure the 5:87 gears helped,
but i personally wont run T10s, 700r4 or 4l60es, etc., for a REASON.....
as with everything else--your car / your money. just hate seeing you beat your head against
the wall..... kinda.
we've had this discussion before. same answer as before. I'm not replacing an old transmission with an old transmission that has fewer parts available. I've broke one of those, actually 3 of them... behind a far whimpier 454. Thanks, though.
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; August 23, 2021, 06:41 AM.
so a bit about P2
Great Stuff has become my go-to stuff for sealing impossible leaks... it's at it again with my trans
time to attach the console cover plate better
bracket built
installed
Paul's car is back on the road.... needs an alignment but a bit of muffling for the summer so he can enjoy it until it gets rotten weather.... and now it's safe to drive
the old wheels were held on with the wrong lug nuts so it destroyed all of them
but new wheels
need to do some altitude adjustment but they look really good
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