Plastic Fantastic tew

[SuperBuickGuy]

Battery, cont.

it's like 1" wider... so a new tray is in order

and off

new tray

and installed and painted

at the swap meet today, I took a chance on several of these...

makes getting the burn off a lot easier

and reverse light....

[SuperBuickGuy]

I see the new tank is more contoured to the car than what you took out. Much better.

aero, it's the top of a yet-to-be-built defuser... eventually, this will have a full belly pan - I bought the metal recently, if I have a chance, it will be on the car before July

[gconnsr]

I see the new tank is more contoured to the car than what you took out. Much better.

[SuperBuickGuy]

tonight started mapping how I'm going to accomplish the tasks

was kind of hoping there would be some 'dos' and 'dont's' from the seller... guess not - this needs to attach to the deck and be supported underneath to the frame

here

the optima battery is 1" wider... so new battery box coming


part of tonight was a failed attempt to figure out whether the wire with a knot or the brown wire were the reverse light wires... I have a schematic - but who knows where


tomorrow I will spend some time on this but most of the day will be spent looking for used parts that I don't need....

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to test fit

old tank

and out

get the fuel out... was joking with my dad that between the fuel in the tank and the nickel in the tank I should be concerned they'll both disappear

now you can see what the plan was

even got pretty close lining up the fill spout - the plan all along was an offset then straight into a coupling and the filler

[1946Austin]

Nice work on the tank! Been just lurking and enjoying seeing how you put it together.

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward

welded 1/2 last night, other half tonight - and did it over a couple hours so I didn't get warping


pretty welds leak. My goal here was full penetration - thus the weld has some grey in it - key here is the HAZ is even (heat affected zone)

and all those black marks are holes - to check for leaks - I look for holes or HAZ changes

for whatever reason, this side didn't have any

then I put 7 or 8 psi in the tank, spray soapy water on the seams and blow bubbles

hmmm more bubbles

leaks fixed, clean up the tank.... next up, removal of the old tank eventually this will have tabs on the bottom so I can attach a defuser and also attach the rear panel to it

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to cap

key here is to not go fast


and be clean

hopefully crack checking tomorrow night

[SuperBuickGuy]

Tanks, Dan.

time to install the baffles

welded

braces... if you don't brace the tank (or don't brace it enough) eventually it will leak due to fatigue cracking

because I'm using hydramat, baffles have to account for that - more directly, no sump but side to side motion needs to be minimized

welded in place. tomorrow sealant and end caps

got the wheels stripped today - off to powder coating tomorrow (I hope)

[DanStokes]

The inside of that tank baffles me. (Hey, it had to be said......)

Dan

[gconnsr]

I actually thought you were joking the other day when you said your car was to loud for the track. Tank is looking good and your welding skills blow mine right out of the water.

When I was a kid they had sound checks where I used to ride my dirt bike and you just reminded me of it.

[SuperBuickGuy]

yeah... not. We're likely moving, so most of the time this weekend was that. Probably Idaho. I'm from there and there isn't a day I don't miss it..... backstory is I came to the Puget sound to go to school and accidently stayed - two failed attempts to leave - but likely going to happen before the end of summer..... but still, racing is going to happen and I did get some work done on that front.
inside view

baffle 1



in other news, old tank has to come out (and brace for the wing, and new battery box for optima battery...

I remember this view

also going to powder coat the wheels.... I can't force myself to spend 5k on schnazzy wheels that may or may not be as good as GM wheels

and a clear view of the suspension (lordy, cameras)

had to take a picture of my stock, GM mounts ;)

front is as stock as the rear

oh and dbs.... 106 now (down from 109).... not 103 like I need.... I may put a baffle on the tip or just pray the db sensor at PIR (50 feet off the ground and 50 feet from the track) reads low... part of me says 'just go to SLC' - after all, it will be about the same distance from my new home as PDX.... never imagined when I decided to go racing that this would be a big issue...

[SuperBuickGuy]

So this, I think, is going to work

reminder, 109 db, need 103... what it does is take the sharp out of the top.... dyno soon, so we'll see how it plays there... truth is the sidepipe headers do about everythng wrong - so a future thing will be new headers into the sidepipes... but that truly is a next winter deal

next - tank vent installed

got the parts to connect the hydramat to the Aeromotive A1000 pump

you cannot baffle a tank too much. Can not. in this case, there will be trimming and fabbing but this is part one of at least 2 parts

next it gets trimmed, then piano hinges on the bottom to seal.
Once that's done, it will get more side to side baffling

hopefully Sunday I'll be pressure testing...

[DanStokes]

I now have punch envy..... We had those at work.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

fuel level

I'm fairly sure these are older then me but still work fantastic on 16 ga stainless

that is not an impact driver and I wouldn't dream of using it with my punches

installed

weird, magnets stick to stainless

yet somehow they didn't before

OBX welded the inserts in place.... ugh

NO


I think round one will still be bolt the cones in place and hope it drops the dbs enough. I'm going to autox at PIR before Optima - if it works, great, if not, they toss me and I figure something out in the 6 or so weeks between that event and primetime