Plastic Fantastic tew

[SuperBuickGuy]

finished the belts.... even got the right belts the first time...

then made a hole

to replace the leaky reservoir

with one that doesn't leak


in other news, for the first time in my existence I had a truck come through with too small of a carb.

backstory, guy on a neighbors page was having trouble with his 406 sbc. wouldn't run over 3000 rpm and running extremely rich..... well, if you put a 650 carb on a motor that needs 700 cfm minimum, it'll pull fuel in its search for air. Loaned him an 870 that I had on the Buick.... thing runs hard... he's quite pleased, figured I better get at least one good deed in in 2023.... beautiful truck, it's purple.

and the Corvette. It's popping like it wants to start - but not triggering my timing light - which suggests it's just fuel detonating with compression... so much of the rest of my day has been doing a deep dive on what I need to do to make it roar. but alas, I'm always breaking trail - and this is no different.

[SuperBuickGuy]

ah winning... instructions for tomorrow...


1.0 CRANK SENSOR SETUP

1.1 Ignition Reference Setup – “one pulse per fire” trigger, Magnetic Pickup

The following shows how to setup the crank signal for a “one pulse per fire” RPM input using either a Magnetic pickup crank trigger or distributor.
A “one pulse per fire” trigger means there is one sensor pulse for every cylinder firing (on a V8 this would be a 4 pulse crank trigger or a 8 pulse trigger in the distributor).

NOTE: In the software, the Sensor Type should be setup as “Magnetic”.

1. Note the Ignition Reference Angle set in the software. This is typically set to a value that is 10° more than the highest timing you will run.
Do NOT set it higher than 75°. 60° is a common value. 60° is used for an example here.
2. Turn the engine over so that it is at the Ignition Reference Angle. For this example it would be 60° BTDC on cylinder # 1
The timing pointer should be indicating 60° BTDC on the crank.
3. Align/turn the crank trigger or distributor so that the sensor is perfectly inline with the trigger.

• For a Magnetic pickup crank trigger, this means the pickup and a magnet should be inline.
• For a Magnetic pickup distributor, this means having one of the reluctor teeth line up with the Magnetic pickup.

4. Tighten every thing up.
5. If you are not using a cam sync (if you are, continue to section 2.1), everything should be set close enough to start the engine.
It is recommended that you disconnect the injectors and crank the engine over.
Look at the timing with a timing light. It should be firing at the cranking timing value shown on the data monitor.
If it is off a few degrees, you can move the pickup slightly, or change the Ignition Reference setting to sync things up.
If you change the Ignition Reference value, note that you must cycle the ignition power for it to take affect.

and
2.1 Cam Sync setup when using a “one pulse per fire” crank input

For a "one pulse per fire crank” signal (e.g. a 4 pulse crank trigger on a V8), the cam sync signal must occur in a specific range to properly identify which cylinder is cylinder # 1 If this is not done properly, individual cylinder trims will not be performed on the correct cylinder, or worse, if using individual coils, the wrong cylinder will be fired, potentially damaging the started, flexplate, or worse.

The best way to determine the proper range is by using the following basic formula to determine the crank angle range that the cam identity can occur. An example is give afterwards along with a table that has certain combinations already calculated.

Cam sync location (degrees BTDC #1) = "Ignition Reference Angle" + “A” + (“A” / 2)

“Ignition Reference Angle” = Taken from Crank Sensor Setup in software
“A” = Angle Between Crank Pulses (crank degrees between triggers on the crank sensor)

“A” for a 8 cylinder = 90°
“A” for a 6 cylinder = 120°
“A” for a 4 cylinder = 180°
Using the formula above, plug in the “Ignition Reference Angle” you are using and the proper “A” value depending on the number of engine cylinders.
The location calculated is the “ideal” location and can vary +/- 30° or possibly more.
If you are out of this range contact Holley Tech Service for options.

Example - 8 cylinder with a Ignition Reference Angle of 60°
Cam Sync Location = 60 + 90 + 90/2 = 195 degrees BTDC #1
Cam Sync Location = 60 + 90 + 45 = 195 degrees BTDC # 1
195° would be the centrally "perfect" location for this specific example.
However, this location can vary by +/- 30 degrees from this nominal target value with no issue.

Number of Cylinders Ignition Reference Angle Cam Trigger Location Range (BTDC #1)
4 60 330 +/-30 degrees
6 60 240 +/-30 degrees
8 60 195 +/-30 degrees

lots more stuff here

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holley-efi/holley-efi-aa/951-magnetic-hall-effect-crank-cam-sensor-setup

[Captain]

Best Wishes, and I Mean It !!
60° advanced has my Spydy-sences
A little tingling......
I know it is a reference point, but it sounds Extreme.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Best Wishes, and I Mean It !!
60° advanced has my Spydy-sences
A little tingling......
I know it is a reference point, but it sounds Extreme.

the instruction is more then your maximum advance, less than 75 degrees. there is a slight problem, though, 42 degrees is about it for adjustment of the pickup

[SuperBuickGuy]

It runs... that math for the cam sync? utter and complete BS. It DOES need to be set in advance of the crank signal - and Holley recommends at least 10 degrees - but that 195 degree stuff. nope.

[SuperBuickGuy]

yes it now runs - which is pretty amazing...
the problem.... the magnetic pickup doesn't have enough adjustment to get 60 degrees of BTDC advance - so I moved it to the other side and mounted it inside the power steering bracket.... worked really well other then being really fiddly trying to hold everything in place. It was nice having Rory here to help (the guy who owns the truck I posted a picture of yesterday)

the next thing - cap the holes I made when I removed the cross bar

cap 2

with the success of getting it running, time to put a cooling system back in place....looks like I'll be doing some warranty voiding real soon

to avoid confusion, I have 2 C3 Corvette radiators, this one got damaged in the move so it's become the test dummy

as we all know, boxes are great radiator mounts

cut the radiator support... was utterly full of rust.... so beside modification, there will be some repair. this will allow the intake air to come over the radiator

before cutting

also removed the bottom support so I can slide the radiator down an inch or so

need to check the fans to make sure I have clearance for them

back to test fitting

with the top bar cut off, I can lower the radiator I may put holes in the bottom to help with airflow

keep also in mind that the way the hood opens leaves precious little space from the stock location

[74NovaMan]

Nice progress as always!

[SuperBuickGuy]

90% prep, 10% work.... tonight I got started by cutting down a knife die to use in my press. For those curious, I have FAR more money in dies then I do press....

knife die is a die that will bend 135*... this is the bottom of the die I cut

so here's a visual of why I'm doing this.... I now have 4" above the radiator to run the intake. The old piece is on

what came out of the bending process - it'd be nice to have a CNC, hydraulic brake but for now I have a BFH

after cutting and bending and pounding

lots of fitting... here, I made a mistake, I should have flattened the knife brakes before I bent the 90* front bend.... now it won't go into the brake

before I made the shroud fit

test fit

where I finished.... lots more to do such as blow holes to allow air into the bottom of the radiator

[SuperBuickGuy]

and carrying on - laying out the top

what was destined to be handrail is now a corvette part

side view

the part I made yesterday needs some air holes

drill holes....

this is where I stopped tonight - trying to picture what the top will look like. This piece is so chopped up and damaged that it's not going back on....

[SuperBuickGuy]

more radiator - tonight's episode, tetris

started with the real radiator and was pleasantly surprised that it's a bit narrower... still won't go in through the top

well, it will if you rotate the bottom of the core support

then the right answer is 'void every warranty'

taped the outlet to the radiator to test fit

and finally, it worked.... I pity the fool who owns this next and tries to remove the radiator....

it's so tight that you have to choose your radiator cap carefully

but it all fits.

why did I cut it? the outlet is at the very bottom of the radiator (which opens up another set of issues)

beside the creative hosework that's coming, it also is over the transmission cooler.... to be honest, I don't know what the Chinese were thinking... the cooler takes up at least 2/3rds of the available space - which, on a car that already has cooling issues... isn't a good idea

That leads me to what's next.
but onto the next problem... notice how much further the motor outlet is compared to the radiator?

I need to get a remote, pressurized reservoir. I'll probably just leave the cap in place. With that said, I need to get the tube out of the side tank. I also have to put a heater return line into the radiator. This is good because that's the line I'll tap for the reservoir.
Ah the joys of hotrodding

[SuperBuickGuy]

I caved.... I'm signed up for Optima Challenge in Portland... if for no reason, it gives me a date to get this done by.... and there is a lot left.

[Captain]

I caved.... I'm signed up for Optima Challenge in Portland... if for no reason, it gives me a date to get this done by.... and there is a lot left.

Motivation,
Self induced DeadLines !!!

"As our story Builds with Stress and Tension...
But wait ... Super Buick Guy shows up to the Rescue...."

[SuperBuickGuy]

*rant ON*
watching Hot Rod Garage with Lucky and that chick (oh I'm going to get worse, just hold your hate). They have 3, count them, 3 days to complete a trans swap, front differential swap, and completely rewire the car with Holley Terminator X. This is Fast N Furious level BS.

3 days. what is that, dog years?

*rant OFF*

and her name is Alex and I also think she is a great swap from whatever that guy was before her.

but seriously. I've only seen that level of lie in Bill Clinton - apparently, HRG said 'here, hold my teleprompter'

[2020 mustang]

*rant ON*
watching Hot Rod Garage with Lucky and that chick (oh I'm going to get worse, just hold your hate). They have 3, count them, 3 days to complete a trans swap, front differential swap, and completely rewire the car with Holley Terminator X. This is Fast N Furious level BS.

3 days. what is that, dog years?

*rant OFF*

and her name is Alex and I also think she is a great swap from whatever that guy was before her.

but seriously. I've only seen that level of lie in Bill Clinton - apparently, HRG said 'here, hold my teleprompter'

You understand it is tv, you know entertainment, not real life, RIGHT?

[SuperBuickGuy]

You understand it is tv, you know entertainment, not real life, RIGHT?

how are the pictures coming of your projects?