Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy
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Originally posted by irsa76 View PostHmm, lucky for me a C3 is old enough for me to leave LHD. I suspect sticking all the steering bits on the right side would make a BBC be a tad tight. I can even pickup a C3 for reasonable money, well assuming I had some money to play with.
it would be tough to build a RHD C3 - the firewalls are not even close to symmetrical. With that said, If I were going to do that task, I'd start by swapping to a rack and pinion - thus freeing up room on the inside of the frame rails and making the task not quite so onerous.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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ive seen a setup similar to a "stear clear" box
(speedway, for highboy roadsters) that left a
'stub' column on the left, had a new column
on the right, and gears/chains to link the two.
everything else from the stub column down-
box, pitman, entire steering linkage-was still
"normal" LH drive. that seems the easiest way
to engineer a RH drive out of a LH drive to me.
but then again, ive been hit in the head alot, so....
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostOne of our old Aussie BSers had an early Camaro ('69 IIRC) converted to RHD and done like it was factory. My brain still hurts when I think of it. OK guys - what was his name?
Dan
Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
74 Nova Project
66 Mustang GT Project
92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
79 Chevy Truck Project
1956 Cadillac Project
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plug reading.... at first glance, I thought I had an oil fouled plug in hole number 2.... but no, that's not oil, that's simply carbon.
5 of the 8 plug were cracked, that plug - the fouled one - wasn't cracked... that means that 6 of 8 cylinders were misfiring, not firing at all, or having a low-voltage moment....Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
5 of the 8 plug were cracked, that plug - the fouled one - wasn't cracked... that means that 6 of 8 cylinders were misfiring, not firing at all, or having a low-voltage moment....
so THATS the secret to getting that "huge cam" sound in my next motor.
duly noted. yay, check another one off the list.........
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Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Postive seen a setup similar to a "stear clear" box
(speedway, for highboy roadsters) that left a
'stub' column on the left, had a new column
on the right, and gears/chains to link the two.
everything else from the stub column down-
box, pitman, entire steering linkage-was still
"normal" LH drive. that seems the easiest way
to engineer a RH drive out of a LH drive to me.
but then again, ive been hit in the head alot, so....
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I was right, dammit, I was right. But before the details....
got the pins for the bellhousing
yes, extra long, not sure that's a good idea but it's what I've got
part of the day was cleaning the engine bay - which happened after the motor was removed
not terrible, but dirty
much better
after it dries, paint...
pulled the pan off to do the mods I need to finish on it
you'll note the engine doesn't have heads on it.... that's because the chinesium head bolts broke at 74 lbs....
I knew it. I knew I should have just bought ARP studs. They're $220 (that I would have had to buy twice because I would have bought the wrong ones first).... The chinese heads are profiler 24 heads that require a bit shorter outside bolts and 1" longer bolts across the top of the exhaust ports... ah well, I'm seriously just one crank away from having a complete 2nd BBC with all the spare parts.... did I mention that I was building another 427? this one is a gift for my dad and his 65 Chevelle SS (no telling).Doing it all wrong since 1966
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The long pins are what we use on our derby motors... Sometimes there is a 3/8" plate between the motor and bell housing (distributor protector, to keep the firewall from busting the cap off) and when we use the combo without the protector ( rules ban at a venue, usually)
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I go back and forth about whether I'm going to put a block saver on the motor... matter of fact, I think round 1 will be the stock bellhousing. I have a blow-proof bellhousing, but for the first 1000 miles they will be street miles and relatively calm. I'm most concerned about getting the transmission off since the cross member isn't removable on a manual trans C3.
Also, in other news, I think I just got the entire suspension from an XLR (C6) so I can really take advantage of the wider stance that the flares are allowing....Doing it all wrong since 1966
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