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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Derby cars hard on header gaskets as well
    as headers. Only thing that really worked was manifold gaskets. Metal side to head and gasket material to header. Have removed and reinstalled without needing new gaskets.

    Old timer used to soak his header gaskets in water, install and run them a few minutes then retorque. My flatbed is on 15 years with the same header gaskets.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99_ls1
    replied
    Dude - still in awe of the capability to do everything. You really have it in hand. Yea, I was wondering if that "knock" was a header leak or not. Glad you found it!

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Exhaust
    maybe #7 is leaking...



    finally, and I mean finally, my Corbeau seats arrived.... and as seems to be normal, their brackets are useless - way too tall

    so started the rest of my evening....

    they look nice

    so I started decreasing the stack under the seat

    this is as low as you can get (by bolting the seats straight to the floor)

    I mentioned the brackets were wrong (again)? they're also incorrect for the C3 (despite claiming to be)

    thought maybe they were backwards... nope... note that they also lift the back of the seat? good lord why?

    however, solution.... use the GM sliders with adapters to the new seats (bonus is if I put race shells in the car, this is a standard bolt pattern)



    as with all things, it took some special tools

    this is much better, I still wish I'd had it shaved 1" but I have the hog ring pliers and I know how to use them...

    snug fit

    eventually, new harness (in date) for the driver

    gratuitous puppy shot

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    well, the results but still no idea why.

    burn marks

    so it goes like this... did the shielding melt, causing the short or did the load create the heat that melted the wires? I'm going with the 2nd because both were melted but who knows....

    as far as the noise, it's not from the rotor, nor from the lifters.... with that said, there are some really odd marks on the roller tip but it seems all are basically at the same adjustment...

    I dunno, initially I thought it was the alternator and I might loosen the belt tomorrow to just be sure it's not. What it does seem is it's dropping a cylinder on the driver's side. the noise isn't really rpm related but rather seems like dropped cylinder related...

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    no idea what this noise is.... no witness marks on the valve cover

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by squirrel View Post
    or disconnect the battery, turn on the key, then measure the resistance from the brown wire to the big output wire. See if it's zero ohms, or several ohms like it should be (make sure to set the ohm meter on the lowest resistance scale)
    great idea, thx.

    Leave a comment:


  • squirrel
    replied
    or disconnect the battery, turn on the key, then measure the resistance from the brown wire to the big output wire. See if it's zero ohms, or several ohms like it should be (make sure to set the ohm meter on the lowest resistance scale)

    Leave a comment:


  • squirrel
    replied
    put a load on the wire, and then measure the voltage. Like a light bulb.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    did 2 things today... first, I fixed the horn
    I bought a pigtail for a regular GM column. the system in the C3 is maddening because it relies on a pedestal to maintain contact - downside is putting it together, you're more likely to cause the push bit to come apart then you are to actually get it together.... this solves that problem

    left is the stock set up, right is the replacing wire

    use the spring from the stock set up and lock on the new wire (cut the spade end off to assemble)

    I'm too cheap to buy spacers so some 1/4" vacuum hose became a spacer

    the offending stand

    now a spade male end


    on to alternators.....
    key off, voltage present

    key on, full 12v (the brown wire - which should have a resistor in line)

    the fix is simple, a one-wire alternator.... and now we know why I kept losing alternators.

    Leave a comment:


  • Monster
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    Pulled the plug on Optima 2, too much to do, no track time, and even waiting for parts... next year... until then, I race locally.
    That's racing.

    Leave a comment:


  • silver_bullet
    replied
    Hang in there Brother!

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    Pulled the plug on Optima 2, too much to do, no track time, and even waiting for parts... next year... until then, I race locally.
    Dang.. Happens..

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Pulled the plug on Optima 2, too much to do, no track time, and even waiting for parts... next year... until then, I race locally.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    electronics.... first problem with the horn


    second problem (and the link I put above is the fix)

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Beagle View Post

    The LS is homely, not the car. I love the car.
    kid hater AND mean to Fords.... oh Beags....smh

    Leave a comment:

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