Plastic Fantastic tew

[silver_bullet]

Offset stick to clear the console/E-brake?

[65RHDEER]

I'm excited, gratification via someone else's wallet!

[SuperBuickGuy]

Well, I did it. didn't buy a kit because I don't care about my floor AND the driveshaft wouldn't work anyway....

[fatguyzinc]

drove it today.... I may have to set compression to a stiffer setting. It also can feel loose in the rear (twitchy?) to the point I checked all the mount and adjustment points to see if something came loose...


learnin' any input would be great.

also need to adjust the shock.... looking around the how-to, I found the instructions.... the knob will turn 11 clicks to the right for firmest setting.... 11. Sounds like I need to turn the fronts up to 11

[SuperBuickGuy]

drove it today.... I may have to set compression to a stiffer setting. It also can feel loose in the rear (twitchy?) to the point I checked all the mount and adjustment points to see if something came loose...


learnin' any input would be great.

also need to adjust the shock.... looking around the how-to, I found the instructions.... the knob will turn 11 clicks to the right for firmest setting.... 11. Sounds like I need to turn the fronts up to 11

[SuperBuickGuy]

centering device engaged

you knew you saw it somewhere before.... works perfect

so it's set with a good baseline

Front -2 degrees, 1/16 toe in
rear -1.1 degrees 1/32 toe in
it's a good start point, still need to balance the car on scales, but that'll happen later

[SuperBuickGuy]

Time to start upgrading things... rear, lower arms and toe rods

adjust to be close - part of the reason I got these was because it adds some adjustability to an arm that wasn't adjustable. Since I cannot get more then -1 degree camber with what is 'stock'.... these help

toe rods installed

create a center line to set the toe

and set toe


still have to set the camber. Driver's side is fine -1.1* but the passenger side is going to require lengthening the new, lower arm.... not much, it's -.9* now and I want -1.1 maybe -1.5

then onto the front.... but this may sit for a little bit, I have a wife project that needs doing on her Heep

[SuperBuickGuy]

They sell an iron midplate that's supposed to be stronger. Might be a great upgrade when you decide to replace the aluminum plate?

my googlefu has not found it. there is, allegedly a place in NY who sells them - but their site doesn't show midplates.... so I like the idea, it's the execution that's problematic.

[1946Austin]

They sell an iron midplate that's supposed to be stronger. Might be a great upgrade when you decide to replace the aluminum plate?

[SuperBuickGuy]

funny you say that.... it also doesn't shift well at all if the rods come off

the 2nd lever was backwards (offset out, not in)


and this hints what's next...

I drove it today and had all sorts of trouble with the fender getting into the tire...since I'm playing with the springs, I'll pull them out and set the camber/castor for racing at ride height.... in other news, I may have new dual adjustable shocks coming...

mislabeled the sealant above... this stuff is pretty cool

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-4/?locale=en_us

[fatguyzinc]

we've had this discussion before. same answer as before. I'm not replacing an old transmission with an old transmission that has fewer parts available. I've broke one of those, actually 3 of them... behind a far whimpier 454. Thanks, though.

well, as a wise man once told me,
"some people could break an anvil in a sandbox".....

[Captain]

It's been a while since I had a dog here.
He was left here when the boys moved out for Higher Education.
The neighbor's grand daughter still came over to play with him..... told her "If he had Opposing Digits (thumbs), He Would Be THE SMARTEST Dog in the World !!"
as he would crawl under cars, climb up your back, (which is like a wrestling match as he was a large Lab Mix) just to watch what I was working on, So he's seen, everything mechanical done !!

He past away in 2010.....

[SuperBuickGuy]

so a bit about P2
Great Stuff has become my go-to stuff for sealing impossible leaks... it's at it again with my trans

time to attach the console cover plate better

bracket built

installed


Paul's car is back on the road.... needs an alignment but a bit of muffling for the summer so he can enjoy it until it gets rotten weather.... and now it's safe to drive
the old wheels were held on with the wrong lug nuts so it destroyed all of them
but new wheels

need to do some altitude adjustment but they look really good

Luigi felt his advice was necessary

[SuperBuickGuy]

#6) (and most obvious choice) replace it with a muncie. i know, i know--you think the T10 is stronger..

its not.

TRUST me, sister...heres a quote from

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/gu...transmissions/



The Saginaw four-speed box is quite similar to both the T-10 and Muncie four-speed transmissions.
However, neither compares to the Muncie in terms of strength.
.........., GM took the basic T-10 design and beefed it up to conceive the Muncie M20 and M21
four-speed transmissions, which arrived in 1963.



true, dont believe everything you read on the internet. that being said... ive personally had 3 super T10
trannys break. all pushed the countershaft out the bottom (like your elongated hole is telegraphing...)
and cracked/split case. ( remember me saying i could draw a line on your T10 with a magic marker to
show you right where its gonna break? the "grand canyon" is the culprit.) the T10 was "rated" to 300ftlb
if i remember right, with the 'super' T10 at 350ftlb and the muncie 450ftlb. we ran a lowly M20 wide ratio
in a nasty tunnelrammed 440 (chevy 427 +.060) in a 68 camaro that hit the 9.90 jr pro gas index,
7500+rpm launches on slicks for 3 seasons, never broke the muncie. im sure the 5:87 gears helped,
but i personally wont run T10s, 700r4 or 4l60es, etc., for a REASON.....

as with everything else--your car / your money. just hate seeing you beat your head against
the wall..... kinda.

we've had this discussion before. same answer as before. I'm not replacing an old transmission with an old transmission that has fewer parts available. I've broke one of those, actually 3 of them... behind a far whimpier 454. Thanks, though.

[fatguyzinc]

Thinking out loud.

I could replace the midplate, but if you look closely at the case, you'll see the counter-shaft bore is oblong - which means a new case too. Believe it or not, these are very popular and parts are available, new, for them... including upgrades.

I'm pretty sure my Right Stuff tempenant (or permanary?) fix will hold until winter but the writing is on the wall... so what to chose - so far these seem to be the choices.

1) Doug Nash 5 speed ($3600)
2) New Super t-10 with upgrades ($2500)
3) fix and pray ($1000)
4) TKX at $3500
5) T56 - $2500 (found one for that with all the upgrades)

1) - complaints about clunky and a pain when cold - not just that but supply is questionable... that said, probably the least expensive option that will handle what I dish out.
2) - highest rating I've found is 325 ft lbs -though rumor is they can handle more....
3) cheapest - and it leaves me with a spare or sellable trans
4) they can't seem to come up with a price, but I think if I do this one, I'll spend the 'extra' and get the one rated to 900 ft. lbs (stock is 600)
5) requires replacement of my bellhousing so could be the most expensive (and could require hydraulic clutch change)..Could also be the cheapest, but it never works that way for me....

#6) (and most obvious choice) replace it with a muncie. i know, i know--you think the T10 is stronger..

its not.

TRUST me, sister...heres a quote from

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/gu...transmissions/



The Saginaw four-speed box is quite similar to both the T-10 and Muncie four-speed transmissions.
However, neither compares to the Muncie in terms of strength.
.........., GM took the basic T-10 design and beefed it up to conceive the Muncie M20 and M21
four-speed transmissions, which arrived in 1963.



true, dont believe everything you read on the internet. that being said... ive personally had 3 super T10
trannys break. all pushed the countershaft out the bottom (like your elongated hole is telegraphing...)
and cracked/split case. ( remember me saying i could draw a line on your T10 with a magic marker to
show you right where its gonna break? the "grand canyon" is the culprit.) the T10 was "rated" to 300ftlb
if i remember right, with the 'super' T10 at 350ftlb and the muncie 450ftlb. we ran a lowly M20 wide ratio
in a nasty tunnelrammed 440 (chevy 427 +.060) in a 68 camaro that hit the 9.90 jr pro gas index,
7500+rpm launches on slicks for 3 seasons, never broke the muncie. im sure the 5:87 gears helped,
but i personally wont run T10s, 700r4 or 4l60es, etc., for a REASON.....

as with everything else--your car / your money. just hate seeing you beat your head against
the wall..... kinda.