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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    I don't mind spending your money, part of the reason I mentioned going with a stroker was I thought you were changing everything anyway. If you goal is to build a serious street engine that you can race on occasion, then I would probably consider pistons. I don't know a lot about chevy cylinder head chamber design so you will need to follow your own path but I have been running 11 - 1 with aluminum heads on the street for years without any issues. My current preferred piston manufacture is Diamond. I tend to like to use the 4032 alloy as they can be set up a little tighter than the 2618 alloy. As to cams, I do like mechanical cams - you can vary the lash to hide duration. The downside is of course is you have to run the valves every so often. As to roller vs flat tappet. I have a love hate relationship here - I have had very good luck with flat tappet cams on the street and they tend to be easier on valve train parts but there is more power with a roller. For what ever reason, I can't seem to get roller lifters to last beyond ~10k miles which typically means an annual expense of over $1k.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    onto more despair
    Get the Buick motor off the stand... dammit

    Eventually I'll realize that spinning a bearing kept me from serious injury... which is what would have happened if I'd kept driving this

    I won't say I didn't realize it and wasn't chancing it

    what bugs me the most in all of this was I pushed through knowing it wasn't right... the surface on the block... it was leaking on the inside


    heads are off

    no fixing this


    for those who pull motors from Corvettes... this is how


    so decision time. I'm 70% sure the cam is wiped out too, I will send the lifters to be rebuilt and get another cam... or maybe I should say screw it and put hydraulic inside... probably not, I think solid lifters work well for this car.... but decisions.
    The other decision is pistons.... I'll buy new rods for certain (better rods) - when I put this together, I realized it didn't have ARP rod bolts... so I'll fix both problems in one shot by even getting a better rod.
    The motor has 100 miles on it, so I probably won't do anything with the heads other than clean them up. Surface the block for the Cometic gaskets... I have to balance the new assembly anyway, so the $500 question (and really, it is a $500 question) is do I replace the pistons with a bit more of popup and get the compression ratio to where I wanted it initially? If so, I can use a thicker gasket and not worry so much about the sealing (using a Felpro instead).

    The oil leak... pretty sure it was at the distributor...

    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 8, 2020, 10:57 PM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I'm sure I'll laugh about this eventually.....

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  • Beagle
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    it doesn't need more torque.
    of course it does, SillyBuickGuy. At what RPM is up to how you build it.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

    What's "need" got to do with it?
    I fully support that notion, but my contention is when racing, too much means slower.... I hate slow.

    FWIW... I don't take the blame for this breakage. Finnegan did the same thing on his car - which made me feel a world better (thanks?)....
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 8, 2020, 06:31 PM.

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