6 already.....where does time go.... Abbey has been on a whole aspirin twice daily for several months now. She flunked out of K9 school for a bum hip - her and Buick are roughly the same age. I was giving her half aspirins till the vet said a whole one was fine as she weighs 80#. Apparently vet has some other stuff for when aspirin isn’t effective. Tell him us Stineys are all thinking of him.
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Originally posted by STINEY View Post6 already.....where does time go.... Abbey has been on a whole aspirin twice daily for several months now. She flunked out of K9 school for a bum hip - her and Buick are roughly the same age. I was giving her half aspirins till the vet said a whole one was fine as she weighs 80#. Apparently vet has some other stuff for when aspirin isn’t effective. Tell him us Stineys are all thinking of him.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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So more work
notice how the pivot and the ball joint are on different planes?
though the Russian judge will never give more score for it, the C5 has a different spindle height and different pivot plane
so let's eyeball the problem. the ball joint is about in the same place as the C3 pivot would be..... only difference is the center of the hub is 20" away from the fender vs. the 16 or so that's stock
so time to move the frame into the frame
first cuts
chopped
time to weld a brace in place
chopped again
now things can move up
and it needs to move back a bit
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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so to more detail.
last night I got it more centered - look at the front, bumper bolt hole
warning if anyone is copying this - those holes are not, exactly in the same spot on either side
another tip - the front control arm hole is 3/4" lower then the rear hole.... this picture is close to where it needs to live
Use the hole where the lines are drawn (rear) - those holes are supposed to be in the same spot on either side. That said, trust but verify.
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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so more fitting.... I think (hope) it'll be okay to move it up 1 1/2" .... I still need to get a legible copy of the suspension points on a C5;
originally, my calculations showed it here
but I talked myself out of it.... we will see, I'll mock it together before I do any more cutting to doubly verify where the wheel will end (vertically) in the wheel well. Even if this is a bit further from the ground the 1/2" at the ball joint won't make much, if any, handling difference.
The other thing... I'm going to eventually cut the stubs off in front of the motor mount and use new metal...Doing it all wrong since 1966
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so a brief note on course a course change
Originally, it was flares and 427. That remains the same, as most who follow know, I love my manual-everything C3s. However, with wide tires, 14" brakes along with a power rack (which I could simply short-circuit), I'm going to add hydraboost to the brakes and plumb the rack and then EFI on the 427. Likely I'll use a throttle-body based system (like FI tech). The reason for EFI is there is a possibility this car is going to get pitted against a C3 with a SBC 427 Corvette and a C3 with a LS 427 - both of which are going to be EFI cars, both of which have updated suspensions.... don't hold your breath for this, though, all of the cars have 2 year min. completion dates....Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by cstmwgn View PostIf you are contemplating a new hydroboost unit you should get Tallon Hydraulics a look. I was pleased with their products and service
The other thing is if I ever decide this needs a 1000 hp LS turbo motor (say something in a 6.0 size).... it'll be ready to goDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Today, I got a chance to get some good measurements off a C5 Corvette
what surprised me was that the cradle is 5 3/4 inches off the ground.... as of yesterday, it was 8
255 tire, now 7 1/4 off the ground
that is about right sitting in the car, yes, it looks low but I could put a 275/20 tire under it ...
time to make it permanent
the oil pan is actually above the cradle and the cradle is basically flat to the center cross member (meaning I can do a belly pan pretty easiliy
looking from the back
and again the front
next up is the front mount which will include the upper control arm mount. they are 13 inches above the lower control arm in the back 9 1/2 in the front..... basically as the tire goes up the upper arm is moving backward while the lower is going forward - but at different rates.... how the GM engineers figured all this out is pretty fascinating to me, hope it works with the Camaro rearLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; October 16, 2018, 09:41 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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onward
starting to trial fit
good grief there are a lot of layers.... still wonder if it'd been better to just get a front-cut and weld it to the rails... probably would, but since when do I do things the easy way?
for those doing this - the plane of the edge of the cradle is the inner point of the upper control arms - the actual dimension is (and I may have to correct this) 37 1/4 from bolt face to bolt face... the cradle is 36 1/2 and you need 3/8" per side to clear the inner portion of the upper control arm... the arm itself is 13 1/2 front and 12 3/4 rear above the lower control arm bolts and the rear most arm is 3 3/8 forward of the rear most, lower-control arm edge flange (outside).
that - with 2" flares, is 3 1/4 in
note how the center line is in the middle of the hub but the upper and lower control arms aren't...
hopefully Sunday I'll get a chance to make all that permanent
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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now you see it
now you don't....
might as well keep moving forward front stubs
put the rack in place for clearance purposes
needs to fit somewhere in there
a bit of CAD work
looks like I need to work on the vertical as well
the interesting bit in all of this is if I decide to LS, it should be pretty much a bolt-in deal
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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