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  • dave.g.in.gansevoort
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    Tanks, Dan.

    time to install the baffles

    welded

    braces... if you don't brace the tank (or don't brace it enough) eventually it will leak due to fatigue cracking

    because I'm using hydramat, baffles have to account for that - more directly, no sump but side to side motion needs to be minimized

    welded in place. tomorrow sealant and end caps

    got the wheels stripped today - off to powder coating tomorrow (I hope)
    This reminded me of the first fuel tank we made for the dirt modified. We ran methanol and the Firestone fuel cell foam and bladder would have failed within weeks if we tried it on fuel, so some 1/8 inch 6061 was procured. We made a rectangular tank that held 30 gallons of methanol. It had baffling but not fastened to the top adequately. It split the top right side seam in about 4 nights of hard left turns at the Valley. It got replaced with a 40 gallon sprint car tail tank.

    Which had no baffling. We did what the sprint car guys did, stuffed a bunch of wiffle balls in it. The methanol doesn't affect them, they are mostly void, and they don't move around. Perfect baffles...

    of course all the kids who donated wiffle balls might have wondered where their wiffle balls went!

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    The new battery just couldn't be 1" narrower now could it?

    Dan

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Battery, cont.

    it's like 1" wider... so a new tray is in order

    and off

    new tray

    and installed and painted

    at the swap meet today, I took a chance on several of these...

    makes getting the burn off a lot easier

    and reverse light....

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by gconnsr View Post
    I see the new tank is more contoured to the car than what you took out. Much better.
    aero, it's the top of a yet-to-be-built defuser... eventually, this will have a full belly pan - I bought the metal recently, if I have a chance, it will be on the car before July

    Leave a comment:


  • gconnsr
    replied
    I see the new tank is more contoured to the car than what you took out. Much better.
    Last edited by gconnsr; March 12, 2022, 10:43 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    tonight started mapping how I'm going to accomplish the tasks

    was kind of hoping there would be some 'dos' and 'dont's' from the seller... guess not - this needs to attach to the deck and be supported underneath to the frame

    here

    the optima battery is 1" wider... so new battery box coming


    part of tonight was a failed attempt to figure out whether the wire with a knot or the brown wire were the reverse light wires... I have a schematic - but who knows where


    tomorrow I will spend some time on this but most of the day will be spent looking for used parts that I don't need....

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    time to test fit

    old tank

    and out

    get the fuel out... was joking with my dad that between the fuel in the tank and the nickel in the tank I should be concerned they'll both disappear

    now you can see what the plan was

    even got pretty close lining up the fill spout - the plan all along was an offset then straight into a coupling and the filler

    Leave a comment:


  • 1946Austin
    replied
    Nice work on the tank! Been just lurking and enjoying seeing how you put it together.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    onward

    welded 1/2 last night, other half tonight - and did it over a couple hours so I didn't get warping


    pretty welds leak. My goal here was full penetration - thus the weld has some grey in it - key here is the HAZ is even (heat affected zone)

    and all those black marks are holes - to check for leaks - I look for holes or HAZ changes

    for whatever reason, this side didn't have any

    then I put 7 or 8 psi in the tank, spray soapy water on the seams and blow bubbles

    hmmm more bubbles

    leaks fixed, clean up the tank.... next up, removal of the old tank eventually this will have tabs on the bottom so I can attach a defuser and also attach the rear panel to it

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    time to cap

    key here is to not go fast


    and be clean

    hopefully crack checking tomorrow night

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Tanks, Dan.

    time to install the baffles

    welded

    braces... if you don't brace the tank (or don't brace it enough) eventually it will leak due to fatigue cracking

    because I'm using hydramat, baffles have to account for that - more directly, no sump but side to side motion needs to be minimized

    welded in place. tomorrow sealant and end caps

    got the wheels stripped today - off to powder coating tomorrow (I hope)

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    The inside of that tank baffles me. (Hey, it had to be said......)

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • gconnsr
    replied
    I actually thought you were joking the other day when you said your car was to loud for the track. Tank is looking good and your welding skills blow mine right out of the water.

    When I was a kid they had sound checks where I used to ride my dirt bike and you just reminded me of it.
    Last edited by gconnsr; March 7, 2022, 12:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    yeah... not. We're likely moving, so most of the time this weekend was that. Probably Idaho. I'm from there and there isn't a day I don't miss it..... backstory is I came to the Puget sound to go to school and accidently stayed - two failed attempts to leave - but likely going to happen before the end of summer..... but still, racing is going to happen and I did get some work done on that front.
    inside view

    baffle 1



    in other news, old tank has to come out (and brace for the wing, and new battery box for optima battery...

    I remember this view

    also going to powder coat the wheels.... I can't force myself to spend 5k on schnazzy wheels that may or may not be as good as GM wheels

    and a clear view of the suspension (lordy, cameras)

    had to take a picture of my stock, GM mounts ;)

    front is as stock as the rear

    oh and dbs.... 106 now (down from 109).... not 103 like I need.... I may put a baffle on the tip or just pray the db sensor at PIR (50 feet off the ground and 50 feet from the track) reads low... part of me says 'just go to SLC' - after all, it will be about the same distance from my new home as PDX.... never imagined when I decided to go racing that this would be a big issue...
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; March 6, 2022, 10:46 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    So this, I think, is going to work

    reminder, 109 db, need 103... what it does is take the sharp out of the top.... dyno soon, so we'll see how it plays there... truth is the sidepipe headers do about everythng wrong - so a future thing will be new headers into the sidepipes... but that truly is a next winter deal

    next - tank vent installed

    got the parts to connect the hydramat to the Aeromotive A1000 pump

    you cannot baffle a tank too much. Can not. in this case, there will be trimming and fabbing but this is part one of at least 2 parts

    next it gets trimmed, then piano hinges on the bottom to seal.
    Once that's done, it will get more side to side baffling

    hopefully Sunday I'll be pressure testing...

    Leave a comment:

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