Side pipes, 4 speed, air gap, double pumper, manual brakes, manual steering.... nothing but noise and the sweet, sweet sound of a BBC at 7000 rpm. I know that you all are glad I'm keeping this reasonable.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostSide pipes, 4 speed, air gap, double pumper, manual brakes, manual steering.... nothing but noise and the sweet, sweet sound of a BBC at 7000 rpm. I know that you all are glad I'm keeping this reasonable.
parts were around $450 total IIRC. found a 68 manual setup in EBARF for $99......)
make sure that tie rod is in the farthest out hole on the steering arm or you get
a hell of a workout....
i still want to convert to manual brakes, as the 108LC makes BARELY enough vacuum
to run the booster. plus that would let me fit bigger valvecovers, full roller 1.8 rockers
(pushing the lift to .630....) plus i can drop on that 2x600 intake with the twin 2 inch
fourhole spacers, etc etc etc..
no matter how nuts it is, ya still want more, yeah?
oh well. repeat after me---
"hi, my name is *insert name here*, and i am a
car crackhead"....
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Pictures of the new motor
4 bolt main 427/454 - it's a truck motor, however, there are some interesting things about it. I'm thinking it probably came from a motor home. Block is 30 over.
Crank is a forged, 396 crank that's 20 under. It's been balanced and the entire assembly lightened.
clean
new seats, new valves, new springs... in iron heads. Too bad, really. I think these will get a half-hearted Craigslist then will occupy my shelf until a suitable truck motor needs built
funny, I didn't take pictures of the pistons. 10.5:1 compression with reliefs cut for 1" lift. No ARP bolts, but I'll solve that before I put this together.
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Doesn't look like it has even ran? Back story?
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This may cause more problems with FGZ, but .... the heads are oval 14092360 85-89 Oval port open chamber heads. I haven't measured the valves yet...
the pistons are Speedpro forged pistons L2300 - so calculating with a 118cc chamber is a compression ratio of 9.24Doing it all wrong since 1966
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So what do you end up with when you put a 396 396 crank in a 427 - 454 block ?Last edited by Dan Barlow; July 5, 2017, 07:45 PM.Previously HoosierL98GTA
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Originally posted by Dan Barlow View PostSo what do you end up with when you put a 396 396 crank in a 427 - 454 block ?
+.030= 431, +.060=440.....
454 same bore (4.25 stock ) but has a 4" crank....
+.030=461, +.060= 468....
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostThis may cause more problems with FGZ, but .... the heads are oval 14092360 85-89 Oval port open chamber heads. I haven't measured the valves yet...
the pistons are Speedpro forged pistons L2300 - so calculating with a 118cc chamber is a compression ratio of 9.24
with the bigger valves and HANG ON.....
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Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
427/454 block same bore, so 396 crank (3.75 stroke) + 4.25 bore=427,
+.030= 431, +.060=440.....
454 same bore (4.25 stock ) but has a 4" crank....
+.030=461, +.060= 468....
Yes but longer stroke=more rotating mass and that means slower revs (but more torque). Great if you're Deaf Bob and trying to ram the other guy, not so good when your reputation as a Corvette is you hit the wall head on (rather then taking it in the rear like a 911). I like the more nuanced approach of sucking their doors off as I go by.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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. Have not seen a BBC in a derby car yet.. Lots BBB, BBM, BBO, BBF, BBC... Most are SBC.. seldom if ever see SBF, if we do, one derby and done.
Dunno what the benefit would be putting those heads on my 454. Has a Performer intake, doubt it has a cam..
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