1638cc = 100 cubic inches, according to an online calculator/conversion chart...
i rate all bikes in cc's, makes me confused when people say 88 cubic inches...
its like parents saying 18 months. its a year and a half, dammit!!!
when you asked what time it was i didnt tell you it was 540 minutes past midnight,
did i ?!?!?!!
cc is for that communist, foreign crap. We speak 'murican here!
i dont think so--but it does use a 4" piston like a 350 smallblock chevy....
coincidence? i think not...
There was a motor built with small block pistons, rods, bearings and valvetrain... Forget what it was called. Wondered if that was it..
Hijack over.. Vette...
4in= 10.16000cm.........
hah hah, ok, back to the nasty rat--
aside from zinc/break in, any particular reason you
despise the flat tappet hydraulics? technology now
allows some really nasty stuff in the 'old school'
parts-n-pieces...
as stated i run a 292/.590/108 (thats [email protected]...)
in my daily driver white vette with the 461". its
pretty gnarly, yet streetable. im old enough to
remember when a .540+ lift cam was "huge", so
almost .600 (and that short 108 LC ) is like a
yesteryear race cam to me.
it has a rowdy idle, pretty dang explosive power,
and as per iskys website is good to 7000RPM
even in a hydraulic flat tappet grind. used to be
that hydraulics ran out of steam around 5400-5600rpm.
plus you get to "set it & forget it". and cant beat the pricing....
not knocking your build, just wondering why, maybe
i need to start stepping up my parts on the next build?
never too old to learn something new....
like you said - with solid roller (and roller rockers), you basically set it once and forget it.
Solid weighs less, so valve float is going to happen at a higher rpm.
Solid can use lighter seat pressure which can save even more weight.
Roller Cam profiles can use steeper ramp, longer duration and more lift - the stuff I'm looking at is .653 lift, 250(ish) duration, and 110 lobe separation with power curves that start at 3500 and go well past 7500.
No collapsed lifters
like you said - with solid roller (and roller rockers), you basically set it once and forget it.
Solid weighs less, so valve float is going to happen at a higher rpm.
Solid can use lighter seat pressure which can save even more weight.
Roller Cam profiles can use steeper ramp, longer duration and more lift - the stuff I'm looking at is .653 lift, 250(ish) duration, and 110 lobe separation with power curves that start at 3500 and go well past 7500.
No collapsed lifters
i would assume ( and you know what they say about that...) you are going
to run a 4 or 5 speed, (i cant really see a 3500+ stall on the street--yeah, yeah,
i know theres guys that do it--but really? thats bordering on "race car on the streets",
not real daily driven, anywhere anytime, near or far, rain or shine "street car".. just
my opinion, of course....)
and a rear gear between 4.10 and 4.88?
man, that thing is going to HONK. i dunno how "daily" it will be, but hey--
street freaks are reet! i cant wait to hear it on a youtube video when youre done.
the big block, sidepipes, monster cam--- its an automotive orchestra of orgasmic
proportions to all car crackheads....
again, say it with me--
"hi, my name is (insert name here), and im a car crackhead".....
Pretty sure ole Aaron is running a manual tranny..
We run flat tappet solids in our derby cars with roller rockers.. I think we checked them once and were still spot on..
Why solids? Motors get so hot the hydraulics collapse. oil runs like water. I once ran a gallon of Power Punch.. Checked the oil after the heat, it just dripped off like water.
Plus solids seem to build more power..
4 speed, 3.42 gears.... this is not my daily driver
yikes....3.42 (with an assumed 28" tall tire like a 275/60 ) at 7000rpm
means a theoretical top speed of 170.663 according to a quick calculation....
thats SCARY. i love it.
sounds like a nevada silver state classic entry, hah hah.
im sure you've got your BBC stuff down cold, but i always worry
about sustained hi rpm sucking the pan dry so i limit myself
to a lot of stoplight to stoplight grandprix's.
for mudbogs, extended hi-rpm runs, ets... i usually go with a sbc
and use stud girdles, they really seem to help with longevity
so maybe they work on BBC too, i know several companies
make them but that power booster being in the way kinda
limits valve cover size...
you could always convert to manual brake (i think you did
say that was in the recipe earlier on) and run a deeper/bigger pan.
it's got an 8 quart pan, I also bought a Melling (yeah, bastards probably will get me again) pump that reduces pressure at idle and controls pressure at full song.... I'd love to do Silver State - but that's a long haul from here.
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