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Finish up the floor detour
a few notes.
1) the floor is going to get the ceramic coating that the FJ40 got - it's 1/4" thick so those seams disappear as does the rust pits on the other side
2) underneath it gets undercoating so the patch will fully disappear (like it did on the '40)
3) FOR THE LOVE ALL THAT IS HOLY STOP BLOCKING WINDOW CHANNELS WITH ADHESIVE WHEN YOU HAVE A LEAK... damn fools, GM designed the windshield system to allow the water to run under the molding then away from the car. The molding keeps water from being driven into the windshield frame. This car had a leak, and they plumb filled up the channels with window adhesive.... the leak is in the valley (below the window) .... just remember this, if I see you, Bubba, doing this I pray for your eternal soul to be damned to a hell where you do nothing but try to weld up pinholes, naked, and over your head. Prayer works, so you are now on notice there is an 11th commandment.
onto cleaning the body so I can complete the color change
and rebuild the rear floor... I think I'm simply going to raise it to clear.... there's little reason to give it huge luggage space and it's far easier to just bond it back 2" higher.
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; April 18, 2019, 08:30 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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more.... I spent most of the day on honey-dos, so I had 2 hours tonight to get further....
doors are off
I knew pulling the booster was a pain, double the pain for a true 4 speed car because there are more bits in the way
however, I won
ish.... I still have to put the other back in
ah well, having brakes that will suck the tailights through the gas tank will be awesome.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostFinish up the floor detour
a few notes.
1) the floor is going to get the ceramic coating that the FJ40 got - it's 1/4" thick so those seams disappear as does the rust pits on the other side
2) underneath it gets undercoating so the patch will fully disappear (like it did on the '40)
3) FOR THE LOVE ALL THAT IS HOLY STOP BLOCKING WINDOW CHANNELS WITH ADHESIVE WHEN YOU HAVE A LEAK... damn fools, GM designed the windshield system to allow the water to run under the molding then away from the car. The molding keeps water from being driven into the windshield frame. This car had a leak, and they plumb filled up the channels with window adhesive.... the leak is in the valley (below the window) .... just remember this, if I see you, Bubba, doing this I pray for your eternal soul to be damned to a hell where you do nothing but try to weld up pinholes, naked, and over your head. Prayer works, so you are now on notice there is an 11th commandment.
onto cleaning the body so I can complete the color change
and rebuild the rear floor... I think I'm simply going to raise it to clear.... there's little reason to give it huge luggage space and it's far easier to just bond it back 2" higher.
Previously HoosierL98GTA
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Hydraboost
cut on the line
bright side is the plate fits, down side is the hole is too high
by an inch
unthread brake pivot
verify thread pitch
cut and thread
verify distance
I've had this Corvette style MC forever, it has the right internals, but the thread pitch is completely wrong for anything I've had before... more likely it will continue to be a test part... but it's nice to have one to check before I buy.
other end, using the right master cylinder
not the right one
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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