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  • took it to a car show today and found a problem


    not sure if there are thin wipers for this... but lord knows I'm going to look for them
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • Bummer. Hope there's a slick solution.

      Dan

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      • I think I have a wiper solution.... the 'stock' wipers are shorter.... hopefully it will clear...
        onto other news
        oil pressure has never been 'stellar' add to this the issue of that stupid owner who put an adjustable collar distributor in and there was a moment where the oil pressure was low... I've been avoiding looking - but today, I'm tired of the oil leaks... to remind, I changed the oil drain plug direction because it didn't work in the stock frame.... and it leaks.... fine, I'll pull the pan and cringe.
        the leak

        the oil does not give me a warm fuzzy - but the motor has 100 miles on it so I expect some break-in wear....

        but wait... is that 2.170?

        they're not perfect but they're not spun.... this set of rods seems 'loose'

        but
        other then I need to run a cleaner ship, they're not burnt or spun

        pickup has a couple shreds but, again, I've seen worse


        so the solution.... put it back together... I'm already running race-weight oils (20/50). From the near beginning, I've decided that I'll probably rebuild this motor with far better parts soon (actually looking for a 4 bolt block but they are scarce at the moment). Since I'm going to spin this up, a lot, it needs better rods and I need more compression and real Stryker heads.... anyway, this will work 'fine' just got to fix the oil leaks. I have two, the bottom of the pan and also it looks like some is coming out the rear china wall.... which I'm going to fix with stacks.... but that's for later....
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • oh what a glorious night

          only one way I know that this can happen....

          which brings me to that other, more centrally located cap...
          if you say "why is the split on the bearing not at the cap? well,

          fudge

          if there's a bright side... pick the one that actually spun




          did you guess?
          /
          /
          /
          you said the one on the right, correct?

          wrong..... it's the one on the left... I'm going to replace the crank and call it a day.... is it right? oh hell no, however, there was some machining issues with this motor so I'm not in love with it..... and it'll give me a chance to clean up the wiring and replace the bellhousing with a blow-proof one....


          oh, and if the night wasn't just peachy, I noticed this as well


          motor is ready to pull
          Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 7, 2020, 10:32 PM.
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • so what happens next - make it faster, of course. I have a forged, steel crank coming.... H beam rods, the right pistons for the heads.....

            the finish on the deck is wrong for the cometic gaskets, not just that but the pistons ... well, let's just said I did a bit of a bad thing make them work with the heads... so I'll fix them all. The rods don't have arp bolts, the head surfacing, so I'll make it all better.... and louder... and faster. The compression ratio is 9.25 and that will be moved to 11.5:1..... free hp

            yeah, this sucks, but I'd rather it do it now then send it to Cali and it blow up the first lap....
            Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 8, 2020, 01:23 PM.
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
              so what happens next - make it faster, of course. I have a forged, steel crank coming.... H beam rods, the right pistons for the heads.....

              the finish on the deck is wrong for the cometic gaskets, not just that but the pistons ... well, let's just said I did a bit of a bad thing make them work with the heads... so I'll fix them all. The rods don't have arp bolts, the head surfacing, so I'll make it all better.... and louder... and faster. The compression ratio is 9.25 and that will be moved to 11.5:1..... free hp

              yeah, this sucks, but I'd rather it do it now then send it to Cali and it blow up the first lap....
              Soooo, does that mean it will be a 510 when it goes back together?

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              • Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                Soooo, does that mean it will be a 510 when it goes back together?
                it doesn't need more torque.
                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                  it doesn't need more torque.
                  What's "need" got to do with it?

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                  • Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                    What's "need" got to do with it?
                    I fully support that notion, but my contention is when racing, too much means slower.... I hate slow.

                    FWIW... I don't take the blame for this breakage. Finnegan did the same thing on his car - which made me feel a world better (thanks?)....
                    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 8, 2020, 06:31 PM.
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                      it doesn't need more torque.
                      of course it does, SillyBuickGuy. At what RPM is up to how you build it.
                      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                      • I'm sure I'll laugh about this eventually.....
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • onto more despair
                          Get the Buick motor off the stand... dammit

                          Eventually I'll realize that spinning a bearing kept me from serious injury... which is what would have happened if I'd kept driving this

                          I won't say I didn't realize it and wasn't chancing it

                          what bugs me the most in all of this was I pushed through knowing it wasn't right... the surface on the block... it was leaking on the inside


                          heads are off

                          no fixing this


                          for those who pull motors from Corvettes... this is how


                          so decision time. I'm 70% sure the cam is wiped out too, I will send the lifters to be rebuilt and get another cam... or maybe I should say screw it and put hydraulic inside... probably not, I think solid lifters work well for this car.... but decisions.
                          The other decision is pistons.... I'll buy new rods for certain (better rods) - when I put this together, I realized it didn't have ARP rod bolts... so I'll fix both problems in one shot by even getting a better rod.
                          The motor has 100 miles on it, so I probably won't do anything with the heads other than clean them up. Surface the block for the Cometic gaskets... I have to balance the new assembly anyway, so the $500 question (and really, it is a $500 question) is do I replace the pistons with a bit more of popup and get the compression ratio to where I wanted it initially? If so, I can use a thicker gasket and not worry so much about the sealing (using a Felpro instead).

                          The oil leak... pretty sure it was at the distributor...

                          Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 8, 2020, 10:57 PM.
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • I don't mind spending your money, part of the reason I mentioned going with a stroker was I thought you were changing everything anyway. If you goal is to build a serious street engine that you can race on occasion, then I would probably consider pistons. I don't know a lot about chevy cylinder head chamber design so you will need to follow your own path but I have been running 11 - 1 with aluminum heads on the street for years without any issues. My current preferred piston manufacture is Diamond. I tend to like to use the 4032 alloy as they can be set up a little tighter than the 2618 alloy. As to cams, I do like mechanical cams - you can vary the lash to hide duration. The downside is of course is you have to run the valves every so often. As to roller vs flat tappet. I have a love hate relationship here - I have had very good luck with flat tappet cams on the street and they tend to be easier on valve train parts but there is more power with a roller. For what ever reason, I can't seem to get roller lifters to last beyond ~10k miles which typically means an annual expense of over $1k.

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                            • 100 miles. Ouch. That really sucks, sorry to hear it. I know you've probably considered this already, but the head surface is as important as the deck surface. Might as well get them both done if you plan to stick with MLS gaskets. I would think changing the CR that much, the 9.25 to 11.5:1 you mention, would also need a helluva lot different cam and springs, so that would be kind of a wash (except it would be nice if the old cam was still usable / resellable). Then again, different cam and unknown stackup height from various decking and possible gasket change, may need to keep an eye on the pushrods too. Eek.

                              ,
                              Last edited by Beagle; December 9, 2020, 05:19 AM.
                              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                              • Originally posted by Beagle View Post
                                100 miles. Ouch. That really sucks, sorry to hear it. I know you've probably considered this already, but the head surface is as important as the deck surface. Might as well get them both done if you plan to stick with MLS gaskets. I would think changing the CR that much, the 9.25 to 11.5:1 you mention, would also need a helluva lot different cam and springs, so that would be kind of a wash (except it would be nice if the old cam was still usable / resellable). Then again, different cam and unknown stackup height from various decking and possible gasket change, may need to keep an eye on the pushrods too. Eek.

                                ,
                                It has the 'wrong' cam in it now (and the springs and such match that came)... but no matter, I have to replace it too....
                                the finish on the block is the issue... heads are fine
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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