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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    well, looks like we have the rules for 2023 Ultimate Street car (aka Optima Challenge)
    https://ultimatestreetcar.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/USCA-2023-Rules_v2.pdf?fbclid=IwAR30TT2Mcx7SbHWda1pxCcgX2f0Y LYjd_1L3jHI-uyZcAgYNy5V6ZNVP6bg
    my to-do list isn't terrible but part of me wonders if I should just run as is because it will take 3 months to do them.... the list
    1) change intake for port EFI
    2) put different roller lifters in*
    3) install Terminator X
    4) Build better headers

    I should pull the motor and reseal the pan along with check clearances.


    *discussion of Forum I talked to several engine builders, cam manufacturers and lifter manufacturers (including Iskederian - the maker of the lifters)... and the deal is that short of pulling the motor completely apart - there was manufacturing tolerance on the lifter bore height which can sometimes run afoul of the lifter manufacturers. From memory - so some correction may be needed - there are 2 "factory dimensions" for the lifter bore height. They are 30 thou difference. Thus on huge cams, you run the risk of the lifter oil passage coming out of the lifter bore. That could, at idle, lower your oil pressure. I'm not convinced that the volume that bleed could create would be enough to be a problem, but if you stack that issue with bleed-off that Isky Red racing lifters put in place and suddenly you do have an issue. I also think the oil pickup - let's just say I have questions.... On my FJ40, I had a similar oil pressure problem. Same basic deal, factory set 'height' ... wasn't enough. Moved it to 1/2" off the floor and never had oil pressure problems since.

    and to be clear... 20 psi at idle hot.... it's enough but I think I want more and I want to run a thinner oil (30w now)​

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    It's been tucked into my enclosed trailer for a bit now, but collecting parts for the new updates.
    1) port efi
    2) coil-per cylinder
    3) backup motor
    4) better sidepipes


    okay.... so explain. I bought a Terminator X and have most of the parts to build the port efi/coil-per cylinder.... I've already sold the Sniper to the friend who I brought the BBC back from Reno.... and the sidepipes... he gets a great deal and I get not to deal with craigslist... win win

    so that's the first 2

    I've been fighting the oil pressure problem - specifically, at idle it has 20 psi - all with a high volume - high pressure oil pump. In talking to people at SEMA (2 cam manufacturers and several engine builders - the only thing I haven't 'checked' is lifters... bbc, I guess, can have variance in lifter-bore height. Add to that some lifter manufacturers make their oil passage wider then others and you can have a perfect storm.... of course, the right thing to do is just build another motor....which a 4 bolt bbc fell into my lap along with forged pistons.... having a spare isn't a bad idea, either, so I'll use a lot of the parts I already have and build another motor.

    and sidepipes.
    this has been on my radar from the beginning but now I finally have the space, place, time and
    Summit had these sitting in their return pile.... cheap

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    and back on the ground.... I may have tightened the rear coil overs a bit too much but past experience says drive it a few times



    I ordered a very cheap set of 304 stainless 16g shorty headers.... next up is build new headers. I also ordered a port efi intake manifold. I'm going to assemble it myself. I don't trust FiTech and the Holley does give enough fuel at full song.

    With that said, I may put this in its box after putting a solid heat cycle or two in the differential (and reset the speedo)

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    yay practice
    nothing left to do but to do it

    my 'stock' C3 rear suspension

    old ready to drop

    empty hole

    getting back together


    oil is in it, tomorrow I'll tighten everything back up - I also want the rear up about an inch...

    the 'to do' list:
    replace inside mirror with one that doesn't move
    oil catch can
    do something about the center console - it's dropped and now is hit by the shifter

    put it away - then collect parts for the port EFI, better headers and maybe build a spare motor.

    Leave a comment:


  • silver_bullet
    replied
    But, You're getting so good at swapping them out! Had a teacher in high school that told this.... "An entertainer was performing his act on stage, and, to his delight, an audience member cheered "Encore...Encore!" So he gladly repeated that part of the performance.... to yet another "Encore!"... This happened several times, and, getting tired of this, He stated to the audience member "Sir, I am sorry, but for the rest of the audience, I should go on with the rest of the performance..." He was rebuked with this: "You will continue to do that last act over and over again until, you get it RIGHT!" Just Kidding old Friend!

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I should use dzus fasteners to install this.... what is this, rear diff number 3?

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    didn't get much time to work on it today, however, did get to checking the alignment.... 6* castor, 1.5 camber. great for a street car, I can flip the shims on the lower control arm to gain 1 degree of camber - which is about perfect for an autox
    I'll take it

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    to remind... these weren't fitting

    they do now

    the problem (basically a burr)

    after a bit of love with a die grinder

    ages ago I bought dies to port heads, I may have used them once for that but they are handy for things like this

    much much better

    with the new wheels on it

    and they fit!!!! 1" wider tire - these rims - well all the rims are for the back tires of a C6. The front are stock C6, the rear are GS C6

    these fit better then the GS wheels which are 1 1/2 inches narrower

    tire/wheel weights
    stock GS front

    race GS about 4lb savings per wheel - granted, it's also a wider tire....

    rear GS stock wheels

    the most amazing, 10 lbs savings on each rear wheel

    tomorrow

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Had to build a gate so got delayed on working on the car
    hard to believe it's $1600 if someone else builds it for you

    In other news... mounted the tires to the track wheels, I'll have to weight them, they're substantially lighter

    the rears are the same size as what's already on there but the fronts

    275/35zr18 v. 295/30zr18 - so shorter and wider.... but I think the same offset so, crossing fingers, no need to cut the flares and widen them

    anyway, got onto the car - should have taken more pictures
    and hit a slight snag.... I need it to go into the innermost 'spot' but something is preventing that from happening...

    so I'll take it apart again and see what's up....
    and the new rear end is ready to be picked up
    to be continued....

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    easiest way to get the upper ball joint off

    drill and tap for grease zerts


    upper assembled

    and installed

    and then onto the lower control arms

    so I remember where it was set (it doesn't set on the lower control arm when this is done but this helps me align it later



    remove bushings

    bushings removed


    no more rubber, delrin

    nicely machined so they get fully lubed

    a 'while I'm there' shaving just a bit off the new sway bar gives me clearance I need


    I really like the quality of the Global West parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    got a pleasant surprise today

    not quite the same, but don't care

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    more updates, the much anticipated Global West suspension upgrades arrived.... why did I wait when I could have paid less for others? well, glad you asked

    this changes how you adjust the front suspension - it also allows you to narrow the track by 1/2", a real benefit if you're already considering whether or not you will have to reflare the car to fit better front tires.
    But I digress, these are the upper bushings, they're basically lubeable heims

    also the way they go together makes it impossible for the upper control arm to move fore and aft (which they can in the stock setup)

    they also allow you to adjust camber by simply flipping the bit that bolts to the frame (the flats are ground off center)

    they also eliminate the lower control arm cams (and replace the bushings with a lubeable delrin bushing)


    to remind, last time out, I pushed hard enough on the 340 tread wear tires to change the camber... and now I'm going 200 tread wear and 1" per side wider contact patch

    first step,
    picture for posterity


    push out the upper bushings

    then realize I don't have green threadlock

    so take pictures of 7 month old, 87 lb bloodhound puppy and her sidekick, Luigi



    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    new shoes have arrived

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    boxes

    winning

    basically, I'm using rears from a basic C6 on the front and a GS C6 on the rear

    11" fronts, they 'just' clear on the inside on the upper control arm


    I may have to do some work on the front flares to make it perfect but I can run it like this... we will see once I put the 295s on the front... I'm stoked. Next up is the headers and port efi....time to make this fast...

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post



    every guy i ever hit on needed the same number, 9-1-1.....

    i used to ask "hey, remember that tv show 'queer eye for the straight guy'?
    well you about to be on MY show, and its called 'black eye from the fat guy'...."



    man i miss work, hah hah...


    Leave a comment:

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