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  • #16
    Originally posted by STINEY View Post
    Did they fail due to crud/blockage? Or something mechanical?

    Just curious. I would understand the blockage thing, some guys just can't be bothered to clean the filthy crud off before they fill the oil tank. Lots of nasty can end up in that little tank.

    Yes, and sometimes they use the wrong hose.... Remember, I'm the guy who says "if you can't sharpen your chainsaw, you shouldn't own a chainsaw" - this follows in that same line - if you can't mix your fuel, you should own something that requires it. The thing about adding the oil to the fuel is it tends to stabilize the fuel.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #17
      I'll consider them carefully then. The main reason is I'd prefer to EFI the thing and there is no consensus on the long term effect the oil may have on fuel injectors, particularly when the vehicle sits for fair periods of time.

      I got to spend a fair amount of time tonight looking it over. Determined the data/serial number plate is long gone. My suspicion is the upper shell may not be original and the data plate was removed by whom ever sold the part. There may be a serial number stamped on the frame in front of the battery, but there is a few layers of paint I have to clear off and my Makita paint stripper is in storage. There are a few indications this thing may be from the 70's or 80's. There is a support bar that was added by the 90's that this thing doesn't have, and the 2-stroke engine. The 2-stroke engine is a bit of a mystery as this particular engine was found in the MAX's competitor, Argo, not in MAX's, so that is odd. But like old cars, things get changed out.

      Here are some pictures in a more or less random order.

      The missing data plate location.


      The back end of it. Of course the lights are not hooked up.


      The cockpit.


      It's a bit of a tight fit for me...


      I wonder if DF and Finnegan got their hands on this thing at some point? The floor pan.


      It's got a pair of band and drum brakes. The newer ones have mechanical disc brakes.


      The belt drive.


      A better view of the drive clutch.


      Pretty basic controls.


      I now know what carburetor is on it so I can find a rebuild kit. A casual look appears they are fairly common and cheap. Hope I'm not mistaken!


      All the axles are gusseted, which I do not believe is original or aftermarket. I've read about people doing that to reduce the flex in the axle and hub.


      Saw this rusty nail sticking a little out of one of the tires, so I figured the tire was probably flat though it felt firm, and soon as it was just about out it started hissing, so I stuck it back in. It holds air I'll get a plug in it later.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #18
        Look at the belt, might be flat on one side and beveled on the other.. It makes a difference which way it goes on..
        All-Sport trikes look very simular.. The drives were Comet brand. You should be able to find a belt seeing you are a former counterperson.


        http://barnfinds.com/1970s-allsport-tri-sport/

        I can understand why someone would want to gusset the axles as these were probably borderline strengthwise to save weight..
        As for the brakes... Disc sounds really good.. May have the kid do that to ours as it never could turn worth a crap..
        The axle has a diffentral much like the older mowers had..
        Our's had a 7 hp that was pretty anemic.. Cousin had 2 with 5 hp engines that would blow away our's..
        We are putting the 6.5 hp HF in our's. But have spent too much time on derbys.

        I always wanted one of these. The farm gets pretty wet and swampy..
        We have 2 Sidekicks to lift and cut the fenderwells out for 9.5X31 traction tires.
        Poor man's side by side with a back seat if you will..

        I will be following along!

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        • #19
          Yeah I noticed after I took the picture there was an arrow on the belt, d'oh! I'll get it flipped around.

          The band brake is just a basic "emergency" brake. It doesn't even have a parking ratchet on it. The main brakes for turning, etc are in the transmission. The band brake there is primarily for if the transmission goes into neutral, or you need to shift between forward and reverse on a hill, etc you can hold the machine in place. Or if you loose the braking in the transmission.

          The gusseting seems to be to usually be for when tracks are installed.
          Escaped on a technicality.

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          • #20
            So doing some more digging, it appears this may be a "Big MAX II" model. Basically if true a racing version

            Look at the last model option on the Max II with the 2-stroke Kohler engine. 45 mph
            Last edited by TheSilverBuick; February 8, 2017, 12:12 PM.
            STINEY and hauen like this.
            Escaped on a technicality.

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            • #21
              I'm having trouble identifying the carburetor to get a rebuild kit. It's a Minkuni brand, which is common, but I cannot seem to find one that looks like this one, particularly with the multiple gaskets on the float bowl(?). I haven't seen any numbers on it yet. Look familiar to anyone? I may simply go and look for a new 2-stroke carb of roughly the same size since it has a pretty universal small engine clamp style mount. Just have to measure the diameter.





              Escaped on a technicality.

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              • #22
                **Edit, I ordered a $20 kit off Amazon that I believe to be the correct one based on the pictures of the gaskets in the manual and on the ad. Crossing my fingers.

                Hmm, of course after looking for 20+ minutes last night to no avail, five minutes after posting this I look up a service manual for the engine (for a snowmobile) and I see the carb is an HR model AND the hoses are not plumbed correctly as the impulse line is ran back to the gas tank and the impulse port on the block is capped off. Still have to come up with a place to get a kit.

                http://www.vintagesnow.com/Engine_ma...woStrokeSM.pdf
                Last edited by TheSilverBuick; February 9, 2017, 11:23 AM.
                Escaped on a technicality.

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                • #23
                  Vintagesleds.com may be a resource. First I would try BikeBandit.com though. While they don't have everything, they do cover a LOT.

                  That said, I found some carb stuff for my'83 Honda ATC on ebay that BikeBandit didn't have.

                  Good luck!
                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                  • #24
                    Looking at the manual some more, it appears I am missing the "Idle jet screw". Think that would be a good reason why it would idle/run like crap when it does start? It also seems to be some kind of bastard carb between a stock Tillotson and a Mikuni round SB. The body clearly says Mikuni but looks almost exactly like the Tillotson in the manual except how it mounts to the engine, which looks like neither carburetor.

                    The hole on the left.
                    Escaped on a technicality.

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                    • #25
                      I had better luck with the China carb than the rebuild kit on the wood chipper. It only cost about twice what the rebuild kit was. If you can fine one that fits and is not to expensive I would buy it.
                      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation

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                      • #26
                        Rebuild kits are around $20 and carbs appear to be around $120. I'm going to try my luck with the carb while assembling the parts to EFI it. I've been reading up on 2-stroke EFI strategies using a MAF sensor instead of MAP. I think if I go with the MAF sensor for fueling I can plug the MAP sensor into the muffler and maybe determine other running tweaks for the 2-stroke, but that is a pretty long ways off from being done.
                        Escaped on a technicality.

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                        • #27
                          Mikuni are good carbs and can be finicky but once set up should provide a long service life. I have not seen this type before but as mentioned previously I would look at bikebandit. I also did a search for "vintage mikuni carbs" cand came up with a few images that look identicle to yours but I cannot access the sites from work. The sites were for vintage go-carts.
                          If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                          • #28
                            http://www.jetskisolutions.com/p108_...storation.html
                            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                            • #29
                              I dug and dug because I wanted to appear super smart about that carb.

                              Yeah, you're on your own, there. Mikuni's tend to be pretty easy to tune once you understand the basics, though. I'd be tempted to swap in something common and cheap, personally.

                              Also that tire, ouch.

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                              • #30
                                I rebuilt the carb this week, it is definitely a Mukuni Round BN carburetor. It was perfectly clean on the inside, so hopefully simply re-gasketing/o-ringing it will make a difference. The mystery hole is indeed unthreaded and doesn't require a needle, but one of the needles was missing the washer that helps compress/seal the o-ring to the body, so that may or may not have been an issue, but in either case it won't be one now. I still hope to EFI it in the next year or so, but want the carb to work well until at least then and perhaps as a back up to the electronics as well.

                                The more I'm diving into it, the more I believe a significant part of the running issue was with the mis-plumbing of the fuel lines. The impulse line was ran to a gas tank return port (and capped on the engine), so the fueling was dependent on gravity and with the check valves in the carb body and relatively low fuel level in the tank, I bet it didn't run well.

                                I picked up a choke cable and evacuation pump, so hopefully this weekend I'll be able to hook up the choke and change out the transmission fluid just so I know it's topped off and fresh.

                                Yeah I will probably put a plug in that tire. I think three of the six tires are flat (though the one with the nail isn't one of them!), but it's hard to tell without a gauge because specification is only 2 psi. Summit has tires in stock for it for $64 each, which isn't bad.
                                Escaped on a technicality.

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