The Tank

[DanStokes]

If the shop at work has a lathe it looks like that could be chucked up and cleaned up with a little strip sanding paper.

Or maybe that's off limits (and I'm assuming that work HAS a shop......)

Dan

[TheSilverBuick]

While cleaning it up I started to really not like the look of one of the drums (bottom right one in the picture) so thought before I attempt a re-use I'd check e-bay and as luck would have it there was two of them on there for $45. So I bought one. The other drum (top right) has slight grooves on it and I think I'll try and see if the guy at the local O'reily's (he's actually pretty good!) to make a light pass on it with their drum/rotor surfacing machine. Not sure if their setup can, but I'll ask. The other two drums just need a light polish to knock the surface rust off.

[TheSilverBuick]

Hard parts and gaskets, seals, etc showed up yesterday, so hopefully can get this back together this week.

[TheSilverBuick]

I see now why it was an 18-tooth collar with half the teeth ground off, it seems the carrier plate is set up for 18-teeth! I was just out there looking at it, not intending on doing anything an that caught my eye. It's the bunch of smaller teeth behind the wide spaced teeth. The other drum/plate have 9-teeth. So I'll be looking for a carrier plate. 6x6 parts place Richards Relics lists them for $20, I'm inquiring if the guy sending me a shift collar has a plate on hand as well.

**Edit, the guy sending me a 9-tooth collar had one and is sending it with the collar FTW!



Fun fun!

[TheSilverBuick]

A fellow on the the 6x6 board found a usable 9 tooth shift collar in his parts pile and sold it to me for less than half of a new one as well as a seal, thrust washer and gasket kit. Hopefully it'll be on its way to me this week.

[TheSilverBuick]

Two folks on the 6x6 board think that the shift collar on the right was an 18 tooth collar that had half the teeth ground off. Can't say I disagree with that assessment looking at it again. There are two guys looking in their stash of parts to see if they have a 9 tooth shift collar floating around. This is a semi-common abuse failure caused by forcing the shifter into gear when the teeth aren't lined up. A relatively simple fix is to do a split-shift modification, which I plan on doing.

[TheSilverBuick]

Pulled the transmission out and apart tonight. The left shift collar is toast, both worn and broken, and there was one band that was twisted up and had some friction material flake off when I tried to straighten it. Otherwise everything else looks pretty good. So I'm in it for a shift collar and probably one band.

The drums look to be in decent shape. The one on the right of the photo is actually the left drum.


The right side bands.


The left bands look good except the bent part at the bottom of the photo. All the bushings in the transmission look good.


Despite wrapping the friction material and gently using a pair of crescent wrenches to keep from pinching it while twisting, it still flaked.


The shift collars. Again the one on the right is actually the left side. So the right shift collar looks good, the left is worned down as well as broken.


The broken collar and the piece was just sitting there.


Just a couple pictures of one of the drums.

[TheSilverBuick]

Well the transmission has to come out. I cut down the dowel, beveled the end a bit and installed it and it felt good and solid when I installed it and worked it between forward and reverse, so buttoned everything back together and started it up and had reverse on the left side for all of a 1/2 second. Felt like it bit then jumped out of gear. I pulled the diamond shifter out and peered down the hole and there was a huge chunk of the shifter collar missing. I pushed the MAX back into place in the garage and went to take a picture but it spun over and now looks "perfect" through the hole. So I spent about 15 minutes beginning the removal process of transmission, should have it out with another 15-20 minutes worth of time.

Looks like I'll be in need of a shifter collar like this, and who knows at this point what else I may find. They appear to be about $161 new.


Searching threads on the 6x6 forum I ran across this, I'm guessing mine looks about the same. General thought is excessive force trying to get it into gear causes this. Probably broke then shaved the pin?


Here is a picture of the shortened dowel and the one from the right side that is good shape.

[TheSilverBuick]

No, no pigtails either, pretty bare. But some were being sold without the fuel rail and such for even more dollars. It shouldn't be an IAC because it only restricts air, and won't work as a choke because with EFI it "shouldn't" increase the air/fuel ratio. My guess is it's a throttle dampener designed to keep air speed up in the intake and keep the engine from bogging when the throttle is snapped open. Not a whole lot of info online about them. I assumed this thing would be a Ride-by-Wire deal and that thing controlled both butterflies, but not the case. Conventional cable it is.

[Beagle]

IAC? man, those are cool looking. No boots?

[TheSilverBuick]

Finally got my tools packed up and got back to this. With some MAP gas and getting the shifter glowing red hot with vise grips holding the pin and using a punch and hammer to tap the body the pin came out. While it was still hot I tapped a new pin in its place. I'm not sure if it's too long or not, but I'll start with where it's at now and if it doesn't seat I'll grind it down little by little. I may pull the other side to A) check it's condition, and B) compare the length sticking out.

I made the mistake of seeing about "polishing" it up with a red scotchbrite pad while it was still cooking hot and kind of smeared it. So I'll wait a day or two and try it again.




Also the motorcycle throttlebodies showed up as well. For a bit I thought I was going to need to make an electronic throttle controller (Drive-by-wire) set up, but it's still fully manual. I'm not entirely sure what the big motor in the middle does other than act like an electronic choke. I think both shafts are two pieces and I might be able to split it into pairs, and be able to run just two of them.

[BlueCuda340]

Googling info is slim, but it looks like the injectors should be rated around 440cc, which is approximately 42lb/hr. That sounds awfully high to me so I'll keep looking around. Interestingly enough from what I gather the 600cc and 1400cc bikes use the same injector, the computer just adjusts the fuel pressure so it could be correct. Probably needs the larger injector to keep the duty cycle down and still give adequate fuel at high rpm's.

I think your onto something with the short duty cycle and high RPMs. That seems like a giant injector for a bike motor but they sure do have to open quick at 12,000 RPM

[silver_bullet]

...

[Beagle]

I'm overthinking it - I was thinking "Double it" too, but thinking about it more, I think it would half it. X amount of fuel per HP and 2 squirts instead of one. Yeah, that sounds big... One 42 lb injector should be plenty for 35 ish HP. And I just lost cabin pressure thinking about it. Nevermind. lol.

[TheSilverBuick]

Googling info is slim, but it looks like the injectors should be rated around 440cc, which is approximately 42lb/hr. That sounds awfully high to me so I'll keep looking around. Interestingly enough from what I gather the 600cc and 1400cc bikes use the same injector, the computer just adjusts the fuel pressure so it could be correct. Probably needs the larger injector to keep the duty cycle down and still give adequate fuel at high rpm's.