Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The Tank

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Double it? Since Duty Cycle is a function of time, like horsepower and fuel consumption. I just need enough injector to support ~35HP. Of course Megasquirt has a 2-stroke setting for the fuel and spark calculations. One guy I read that megasquirted a 2-stroke said the duty cycle was significantly higher than he would have expected, which if he ran too much he would of had to upgrade the injector but in his case it didn't come to that. I'm thinking a 50% bump in fuel pressure will help this. I'm kind of considering just running all four throttle bodies and injectors, and that should be an easy 50HP worth of injector at stock fuel pressure.

    I think this is what my intake looks like if I were to remove it, so just V a pair of tubes together on each intake port? Get a gasket for a pattern and have a flange water jetted?
    Last edited by TheSilverBuick; March 22, 2017, 03:36 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    with it being a two stroke and every rev being an intake event, what does that do to injector duty cycle?

    Leave a comment:


  • STINEY
    replied
    6+ choices? Yikes!

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    I just bought a 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 600 EFI throttle body set with upper injectors on E-bay for $28. Each of the four throttle bodies are 32mm, so if I can fabricate a pair of intake tubes for two of them that should give more than enough air. The Kawi 600 engines were rated at 100HP to the tire, with 8 injectors so that is technically only 25HP worth of fuel injector with only two injectors in place, but assuming they are not maxed out by design and I have the ability to raise the fuel pressure 50%, I'm hoping they'll be sufficient. Just another piece of the puzzle.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    I think I have too much pre-load on the spring. Reading up on them I've read between a 1/4 and 1/3 of a turn is sufficient and I turned mine a full half. The coil spacing made me suspicious. I'm going to pop the snap ring off and go for the 1/4 to 1/3 turn.

    Stiney, this one has a half dozen or more notches for the spring to catch, so quite a bit of adjustability. Since this is a 2-stroke that should wind up in rpm's I'm going to start on the heavy side, just not as heavy as I've apparently gone!


    **Edit. I reset the spring to 1/3 and 1/4 turn pre-loads and it still looked like my previous picture, so I think the spring is tweaked. I'll add getting a new one to the list of minor parts to pick up later.
    Last edited by TheSilverBuick; March 20, 2017, 08:11 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Ace Hardware FTW! I took the driven clutch to Ace and found a woodruff key that fit the slot, though needed some trimming, as well as a snap ring and 1/4" dowel.

    Grabbed these from the drawers at Ace. I picked up some new files since mine are in storage. A guy on the 6x6 forum sent me pictures of the factory woodruff key, which had ears, so I had something to base it on. Sadly the trimming of the woodruff key would have been just a few minutes with a 4" grinder/cut off wheel, but I spent about 15 minutes with the file, so all in all wasn't terrible.


    Won't win any awards but should do the job nicely.


    Pre-loaded the spring and slid the end piece on and installed the snap ring. I didn't have any snap ring pliers on hand, but a flat head screw driver got the job done.


    That snap-ring should stay in place.



    Unfortunately the dowel didn't come out of the shifter for me. I tried a few penetrating oils and vise-grips, but no go. I think I'm just going to run it by a machine shop and have them work their magic over and install a new dowel. On a good note though, I lifted the left side off the ground and spun the wheels. At first it was in neutral, and the transmission shaft didn't move, check. Next used a screw driver to shift it into forward and the transmission shaft spun, check. Then moment of truth and shifted into reverse and it didn't want to move, puzzled me for a second, pulled the left lever and spun the tires and the transmission shaft spun! So looking good on it being the pin. Looking at how the shifting is leveraged, I can see why the pin wears like it does.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Ah, okay, those two posts I've linked pictures from the other forum, they must have the permissions locked up on picture viewing.

    The second picture is just of a clip, but here is they guy's shifter pin.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	
Views:	95
Size:	28.6 KB
ID:	1150229

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
    They are showing up on my screen
    Post 65 has a, bunch of pictures. Next two posts... nothing. No worries...

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Originally posted by STINEY View Post
    Not here.
    Nor here...

    Leave a comment:


  • STINEY
    replied
    Not here.

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    I have them too.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    They are showing up on my screen

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    man, those pictures are bad for your eyesight. I'm going blind looking for them.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Got some replies back and it looks like I just need to get a key and this clip.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheSilverBuick
    replied
    Here is a picture of one of their pins when it lost reverse as well. Pretty much twins.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X