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  • #46
    My guess it will be like a motorcycle and there will be a wire off the coil(s) that will have to go to earth to stop spark.

    The tops of those pistons are a bit ugly but it's just a toy.
    Deaf Bob and Beagle like this.
    Tim
    Melbourne Australia

    65 Hardtop Impala, 70 GTS Monaro, 93 "80" Landcruiser

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    • #47
      looks like detonation... Maybe oiler related or it got run with pre-mix and the oiler running? Oil changes the octane rating and a/f ratio. It took me forever to figure out why I couldn't get Homelite's to stop running rich. The carbs were set up for 16:1 ratio and we always used 32:1 in the shop... less oil = more fuel. Too much oil = lean and lower octane. The octane discussion goes wild on the internet, but I don't worry about it as much as lean. Lean+2stroke is like Lean+Nitrous Oxide... not happy. Particularly on an air cooled 2 stroke.

      Originally posted by 65RHDEER View Post
      My guess it will be like a motorcycle and there will be a wire off the coil(s) that will have to go to earth to stop spark.

      The tops of those pistons are a bit ugly but it's just a toy.
      I think the keyswitch is supposed to break the + power circuit to the coils in "off" position
      Last edited by Beagle; March 3, 2017, 05:48 AM.
      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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      • #48
        So if I have a chain saw, a leaf blower and a weed eater, I know one is 50:1 the other is 40:1 the third is? I had been mixing my fuel at the lowest ratio thinking more oil is better? Than not enough? What ratio should i mix? More than one gas can is not an option
        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation

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        • #49
          I bought some oil a few years back that says on the bottle (paraphrased) "mix by our directions and it's good in anything". Might be worth picking up a jug of THAT.

          Dan

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          • #50
            There isn't any auto-oiler, I was just thinking about adding one but the general consensus here and the rest of the internet is no one trusts them. I bought this thing it's own gas can the other day, just like the chainsaw has it's own gas can and mixed it at 32:1. I've read spec's between 20:1 and 40:1. I read a few threads about people over oiling their fuel and getting detonation and burning holes in their pistons.

            In the confines of my garage it smoked up pretty quickly (the big door was open as was a side window), but the engine was also cold and also sounded like it was buzzing at 2,000+ rpm (aka sounded like 4,000!). I turned the idle down a bit before starting it a second time, but not enough. As soon as I have a reliable way to shut it down I'll dial in the carb. It's supposed to rain and snow all weekend, but I may still get a chance to run it out into the street for a small test drive.

            I know 2-stroke exhaust systems are like voodoo, but I'm going to be exploring ways to quiet this thing down significantly in order for the Mrs. to enjoy riding with me. A few threads I've read said it's possible to have your cake and eat it too in regard to noise vs. power.
            Escaped on a technicality.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Russell View Post
              So if I have a chain saw, a leaf blower and a weed eater, I know one is 50:1 the other is 40:1 the third is? I had been mixing my fuel at the lowest ratio thinking more oil is better? Than not enough? What ratio should i mix? More than one gas can is not an option
              I've done this. Remember that on a 2smoke, the more oil means the less fuel. How far are you willing to lean things out? Don't be a piston murderer!

              That said, if you're running good oil and don't care so much about the smoke, you can kinda split the difference and be ok. Abusing a dirtbike with vastly too much oil, not ok.

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              • #52
                I think I know which wire I need to follow now.

                http://www.6x6world.com/images/recre...n-to-7-pin.pdf

                In the gaggle of hanging wires there, there is a black one hanging from the plug. I need to follow it and see if it connects up to the coils. if so it'll be easy to wire the toggle switch to ground it.
                Escaped on a technicality.

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                • #53
                  The Kaw 750 Triple 2 stroke's middle cylinder oiler feed backed off..(or something) Scratched and scored it shitless!
                  When it gets going again, it will run premix!
                  For my chain saws, they all run Stihl's oil..bottle to gallons ratio.. My favorite saw is 41 years old, starts on 2-3 pulls cold every time one while hot..
                  I used other oil in a pinch and when the saw shop burned down, smoked excessively..
                  I like Stihl's oil.

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                  • #54
                    I'll admit it - I cheated. The Kohler manual you posted shows it killing the power to the coils via the key switch.

                    Two stroke baffles are a total trip.. so is the voodoo for expansion chamber design. I'd grab a baffle off something like a 500 cc Polaris 4 wheeler since I don't know much about sleds and how quiet or not they are. Sportsmans used big two strokes if I remember right and they were okay quiet. They will be forestry legal more than likely (spark arrestor). The big thing about screens a lot of two strokes use for spark arrestors is keeping them clean. They carbon up fast. Colin Furze has an interesting Youtube video or two on hyrdoforming if you get the illness and have to start making your own expansion chambers. You can move the power band around quite a bit with the chamber design.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCsg5pQimWI

                    Lawn-boy used to have screaming fits over One Mix who said they covered everything from 16:1 - 50:1 with one tube which was about 40:1 I think. They refused warranty work of any kind if they found out the owner had been using it. I thought it was lame - we never saw any oil related problems and we put it in everything. Years later I figured out why the really old Poulans and Homelites were so hard to tune the carb on. The stuff we were servicing was used all day every day by some of the worst users (undocumented, uneducated day labor, whatever we are supposed to say these days). Some oil is usually better than no oil is what I wound up thinking.

                    I mix whatever is in the shop these days - on something that big I would get a TC-W3 certified two stroke oil by the gallon, like Mercury oil from Walmart. I think it's called Quicksilver. I have used a bunch of it at location X in air cooled two strokes with zero problems. I'm marginally easier on equipment than a day laborer. On the other hand, I've had dirt bikes in the past that would spit plugs out twice as fast with anything but Belray in the tank and I never could figure out why. Between the cost of the oil and the cost of a plug, it was a wash. I hated pushing it so I bought the expensive oil.
                    Last edited by Beagle; March 4, 2017, 06:53 AM.
                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                    • #55
                      My 500cc Mach III's were really quite quiet. I don't know if anyone is making a cheap knock-off of their stock mufflers but if so they would be worth looking at - and they're pretty and chrome. I'm sure NOS Kawasaki muffs would be prohibitively expensive.

                      Dan
                      Last edited by DanStokes; March 4, 2017, 08:01 AM.

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                      • #56
                        I forgot to mention the Kaw's mufflers were gummed, pulled the baffles out and it roared. Ear piercing roar. Even hurt me.

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by AndyB View Post

                          I've done this. Remember that on a 2smoke, the more oil means the less fuel. How far are you willing to lean things out? Don't be a piston murderer!

                          That said, if you're running good oil and don't care so much about the smoke, you can kinda split the difference and be ok. Abusing a dirtbike with vastly too much oil, not ok.
                          Too much oil can cause lean and burn pistons, what does not enough do? Kill rings and cylinders?

                          I try to somewhat take care of my equipment. My home lite weed eater has had a hard life, it had a brush blade on it for years and Dad had me cutting fence line with it. Not sure how you abuse a blower? The chain saw, I try to keep it sharp and let the blade cut and not force it through the log.

                          So you think an average, 45:1 would be better than the leanest.

                          I have never noticed too much smoke.
                          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation

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                          • #58
                            Found the wire that shuts the engine off! It was even connected to the plug for the missing ignition key. Grounded the black wire leaving the plug and it shut right down. Now I can get to adjusting the carb needles and see if I can drive it out of the garage and back.

                            Took a short video of the 2-stroke running. I flooded it right before this from trying to start it with the spark plug wires removed, so the plugs might need to be cleaned, but it runs.
                            Escaped on a technicality.

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                            • #59
                              SUCCESS!!
                              Patrick & Tammy
                              - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                              • #60
                                Had some success this weekend and it moved under it's own power but I think the easy honeymoon is over as it doesn't have reverse on the left side and the driven clutch I think needs to come apart.

                                It definitely takes some getting used to balancing the throttle and control sticks to keep from either revving it to the moon or stalling it, but I think that will come with time. It moves forward well enough but I only have reverse on the right side, which is a bummer.

                                I checked the linkage adjustments, and both top and bottom on both sides are right at 11/16" from the case, and the plungers on all 4 pull out to just flush with the case when pulled to their maximums. I tried tightening up the lower left plunger a couple threads to see if reverse would grab, but didn't get anything out of it.

                                I tried to remove the diamond shifter that controls Forward-N-Reverse shifting, but it has a nice clip in groove lock and my clip pliers are away in storage. I don't suspect anything with the pin since I have forward, but also don't know quite enough to say for sure. My current guess is the anchor pin for the band has come loose. I've started a troubleshooting thread on the 6x6 forum. The transmissions are dead simple, but with a bulk of my tools in storage and table space at a premium, I'd rather not be disassembling it. I'm not going to remove the transmission though until after I've got a pair of clip pliers and removed the shifter for inspection first in the event it's simply the shifter pin, which is a possibility.

                                Then the driven clutch. It seems either the spring isn't locked into the place it should be or it broke, though I did not find a broken edge. Thoughts? I'm probably pulling the T-20 anyways and will be removing this anyways, so but am I looking at simply assembling it correctly? Getting a new spring? Or needing a new driven clutch assembly? Here are a few pictures.



                                The spring actually got caught on one of the teeth.
                                Last edited by TheSilverBuick; March 13, 2017, 08:44 AM.
                                Escaped on a technicality.

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