The Tank

[TheSilverBuick]

There isn't any auto-oiler, I was just thinking about adding one but the general consensus here and the rest of the internet is no one trusts them. I bought this thing it's own gas can the other day, just like the chainsaw has it's own gas can and mixed it at 32:1. I've read spec's between 20:1 and 40:1. I read a few threads about people over oiling their fuel and getting detonation and burning holes in their pistons.

In the confines of my garage it smoked up pretty quickly (the big door was open as was a side window), but the engine was also cold and also sounded like it was buzzing at 2,000+ rpm (aka sounded like 4,000!). I turned the idle down a bit before starting it a second time, but not enough. As soon as I have a reliable way to shut it down I'll dial in the carb. It's supposed to rain and snow all weekend, but I may still get a chance to run it out into the street for a small test drive.

I know 2-stroke exhaust systems are like voodoo, but I'm going to be exploring ways to quiet this thing down significantly in order for the Mrs. to enjoy riding with me. A few threads I've read said it's possible to have your cake and eat it too in regard to noise vs. power.

[DanStokes]

I bought some oil a few years back that says on the bottle (paraphrased) "mix by our directions and it's good in anything". Might be worth picking up a jug of THAT.

Dan

[Russell]

So if I have a chain saw, a leaf blower and a weed eater, I know one is 50:1 the other is 40:1 the third is? I had been mixing my fuel at the lowest ratio thinking more oil is better? Than not enough? What ratio should i mix? More than one gas can is not an option

[Beagle]

looks like detonation... Maybe oiler related or it got run with pre-mix and the oiler running? Oil changes the octane rating and a/f ratio. It took me forever to figure out why I couldn't get Homelite's to stop running rich. The carbs were set up for 16:1 ratio and we always used 32:1 in the shop... less oil = more fuel. Too much oil = lean and lower octane. The octane discussion goes wild on the internet, but I don't worry about it as much as lean. Lean+2stroke is like Lean+Nitrous Oxide... not happy. Particularly on an air cooled 2 stroke.

My guess it will be like a motorcycle and there will be a wire off the coil(s) that will have to go to earth to stop spark.

The tops of those pistons are a bit ugly but it's just a toy.

I think the keyswitch is supposed to break the + power circuit to the coils in "off" position

[65RHDEER]

My guess it will be like a motorcycle and there will be a wire off the coil(s) that will have to go to earth to stop spark.

The tops of those pistons are a bit ugly but it's just a toy.

[TheSilverBuick]

Big day today, got it fired up and for the bit it ran it sounded healthy.

I mixed up some more oil/fuel to be sure there was plenty of gas, gave it a few cranks with the choke set and promptly flooded it. I determined I had the throttle blades closed too far, coincidentally today I received a USB bore scope camera for my cellphone so I took the opportunity and removed the carb and spark plugs to air it out and inspect it. Looks like the piston tops have seen better day, not really sure if it's detonation or debris, but either way I'm not overly worried about it going forward and will let it ride. The inside of the ports and in the block are perfectly clean.

After the inspection I put the carb and plugs back on, dialed up the idle screw a hair and it fired right up! Started smoking up the garage pretty quickly and went to shut it down and found the toggle switch on the dash I was trusting didn't shut the engine off! So I pulled the negative battery cable off the battery, which didn't do anything either! Put it back on and got a pair of pliers and pulled the spark plug wires off the plugs! I looked around and found a fuse wired up under the dash so I fired it up again and pulled the fuse, which I suppose unsurprisingly did nothing. So I pulled the plug wires again. I did notice the ammeter works though. I plan on a full re-wire, but in the mean time I need to look up what wires should be connected to the toggle switch to shut it down.

The left piston.


Right piston.


Both skirts show expected wear/damage after seeing the piston tops. Again, I'm not going to do anything about it.



Clean ports.



Under the pistons, inside the block looked brand new.



Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to take it down the driveway and back to see how the T-20 is.

[Deaf Bob]

Pretty slick eh? The guy I bought it from specifically mentioned it to me, lol. Has a nice 3-bolt to pipe adapter on the carb too. I can make a snorkel if I have to!

Make it taller for a RAM effect

[TheSilverBuick]

Pretty slick eh? The guy I bought it from specifically mentioned it to me, lol. Has a nice 3-bolt to pipe adapter on the carb too. I can make a snorkel if I have to!

[Deaf Bob]

If it's been said, I didn't see it... nobody wants to talk about the sink parts for the air cleaner assembly? That's awesome.

You mean the drain pipe from a kitchen for an air filter??

[Beagle]

If it's been said, I didn't see it... nobody wants to talk about the sink parts for the air cleaner assembly? That's awesome.

[TheSilverBuick]

After sitting in the machine and looking around, I don't think it's going to be necessary to put a bracket around it.

Got a bit done today. The three big things is getting the carb fully hooked up, choke and all, and changed out the transmission fluid if you can call it that and adjusted the chains. Maybe I'll get it fired up tomorrow?

I pulled the upper plug on the T20 and stuck a suction tube down it and basically got nothing out. When I pulled the tube out there was just a bit of fluid on the side of the tube. So I removed the lower plug and stuck the tube in there and essentially the same. The T20 was essentially dry, just a splash on the internals, so hopefully it hasn't be ran much like that. I poured in a quart of an ATF/limited slip additive mix and it just barely started dribbling out the bottom hole, so it was empty and now set right where it needs to be. Most the chains were pretty good, but a few were a bit loose. Wasn't much trouble tightening them up. I was surprised how few turns of the adjustment bolts it took to put them into tension, then of course backed them off a smidgen for proper slack.

I got the choke hooked up, but it required flipping the choke rod to the other side of the carb because I couldn't get the bracket to fit with throttle cable bracket. The universal choke cable from the auto parts store is too short, so for now I'm just running it out of the engine bay when I out the top shell down, but the key point is it'll work. I got the impulse and fuel line hooked up properly as well.


I was looking more at the switch panel location and I think I am good with it to the left of the seat. I was looking at the left dash panel location and I'd have to move the Ammeter over if I wanted to fit it there.


If I put it right where the duct tape is I think it's would sit clear of me accidentally bumping it with my leg. I pretty much put my hip on the edge of the seat but with how my legs go into the front it steers clear of the side.




I haven't wired it in, but looking closer at the pocket on the dash there was already a crack/hole on the side of it, so it looks like a plan is coming together there.

[silver_bullet]

Not quite the same design but they are out there!

[TheSilverBuick]

Not a bad idea, I was thinking of something like that but didn't think of a draw pull. I wonder if there are 8" wide ones?

[silver_bullet]

put a drawer pull above and below the switch panel...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-3-3-4-in-96mm-Satin-Chrome-Wire-Cabinet-Pull-P604D6-SC-C/202023431

[TheSilverBuick]

All the switches came in today. I am thinking of putting them on the left side here though I know they'd be at risk of my knee bumping them, so it's not a final decision yet.