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  • #91
    A fellow on the the 6x6 board found a usable 9 tooth shift collar in his parts pile and sold it to me for less than half of a new one as well as a seal, thrust washer and gasket kit. Hopefully it'll be on its way to me this week.
    Deaf Bob and 74NovaMan like this.
    Escaped on a technicality.

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    • #92
      I see now why it was an 18-tooth collar with half the teeth ground off, it seems the carrier plate is set up for 18-teeth! I was just out there looking at it, not intending on doing anything an that caught my eye. It's the bunch of smaller teeth behind the wide spaced teeth. The other drum/plate have 9-teeth. So I'll be looking for a carrier plate. 6x6 parts place Richards Relics lists them for $20, I'm inquiring if the guy sending me a shift collar has a plate on hand as well.

      **Edit, the guy sending me a 9-tooth collar had one and is sending it with the collar FTW!



      Fun fun!
      Last edited by TheSilverBuick; April 12, 2017, 08:08 PM.
      milner351 likes this.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #93
        Hard parts and gaskets, seals, etc showed up yesterday, so hopefully can get this back together this week.
        BlueCuda340 likes this.
        Escaped on a technicality.

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        • #94
          While cleaning it up I started to really not like the look of one of the drums (bottom right one in the picture) so thought before I attempt a re-use I'd check e-bay and as luck would have it there was two of them on there for $45. So I bought one. The other drum (top right) has slight grooves on it and I think I'll try and see if the guy at the local O'reily's (he's actually pretty good!) to make a light pass on it with their drum/rotor surfacing machine. Not sure if their setup can, but I'll ask. The other two drums just need a light polish to knock the surface rust off.

          Escaped on a technicality.

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          • #95
            If the shop at work has a lathe it looks like that could be chucked up and cleaned up with a little strip sanding paper.

            Or maybe that's off limits (and I'm assuming that work HAS a shop......)

            Dan

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            • #96
              We have no shop here. The bad drum would be really really thin by the time it would be cut smooth. The other one that I've yet to take anywhere I think will clean up with minimal work, and is overall casted much thicker.
              Escaped on a technicality.

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              • #97
                The good drum(left) arrived today. I still have to see about getting the other one surfaced smooth.

                Escaped on a technicality.

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                • #98
                  Project creep. I was looking at getting a new band to replace the one that was twisted up and lost some friction material, then was looking at all the bands in detail and another one has a rough spot on it, and the cost of two new bands is around $180 +tax+shipping. The folks on the 6x6 forum recommend sending the bands in for re-lining at $35 a band, which is reasonable, but one is twisted up/damaged so no go. Here is where project creep comes in, Alto's Products had a set of 4 on E-bay for $320, and I checked their website and it was listed in their clearance section so I made an offer for $250 and we eventually agreed to $295 and free shipping, and sans tax. More than I wanted to spend but over all saved around $65 and shipping and tax, so a small win.

                  I'm still looking for a shop to machine the one drum down, seems all the local auto shops around my house don't have a conventional lathe for cutting rotors and drums but a fancy machine that just does rotors and drums for the few times they actually cut them. So when I get it back together it'll be pretty much new and I now have a bit over $1,000 tied up into the max, but this "should be" the last large expense until I decide I need tires or such.
                  Escaped on a technicality.

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                  • #99
                    FINALLY got the drum machined. Had a few shops flat decline to do it and one say 10 weeks before they could get to it before I found one that said one to two weeks. It's just about back together then I'll get it plopped back into the Max.

                    Escaped on a technicality.

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                    • Cool project..

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                      • I put the transmission back together and was never happy with the band adjustments. Certainly not happy enough to really do much else with the finicky 2-stroke engine, so it sat until recently. I've decided to convert this to electric. Ditch the 2-stroke and the transmission at the same time. Initially I was looking for a pair of cheap electric golf carts to run a motor on each side, which would require two of everything, controller, direction controller, etc. But the cost kept me from really moving forward with it. Figuring it would be at minimum around $900 plus batteries for ~10-16HP worth of power. Then I came across a Toyota rear axle electric drive motor (MGR - Motor Generator Rear) that could be had for $100!

                        For $100 I'd get a ~68HP electric motor coupled to an open differential. Figured using some disc brakes and pair of master cylinders I could modulate power left and right similar to how people do it on dune buggies in the sand. With this research I found a group working on using Toyota Prius inverters to run about any kind of electric motor, at least upwards 150HP worth of control. The controller is still very much a work in progress and reminds me of Megasquirt in the early early days, before I even started with it. So it'll be a challenge. Anyways, I picked up two Toyota inverters, a Gen2 and Gen3, each for $50. I'm going to attempt to build the cheapest controller option for sub-$100 but may end up purchasing a more assembled, nearly plug and play kit for around $350. We'll see! I will still have to sort out a battery to use, but bonus is the Toyota inverter can be used to fast charge batteries as well. A neat package.

                        So I yanked out the drivetrain and fuel tank and set the MGR and Gen2 inverter in there to see how it looks. The Gen3 inverter is a bit smaller if I use it.




                        So I sketched out a plan to run some shafts from the MGR, with some brake rotors on it and use a pair of master cylinders on the control levers. I just mocked up the setup today.


                        And how it looks. I plan on cutting out some of the old transmission brackets and slide the whole thing forward. The chain will run from a 10-tooth sprocket to the middle axle directly (middle chain) and get rid of the upper jack shaft. Using a 1998 Kawasaki Ninja front brake setup was the cheapest route I could find on E-bay.






                        So what could go wrong going from a peaky ~20-30HP engine to an instantaneous 68HP power plant???
                        Escaped on a technicality.

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                        • If the axles live, and the 200 plus volts worth of battery you're sitting on doesn't catch fire? Nothing! Batteryhookup.com has some BMW battery modules for kind of cheap right now.... of course, you will want a flexible PV panel on a bimini top right?
                          Last edited by Beagle; July 25, 2020, 05:36 AM.
                          TheSilverBuick likes this.
                          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                          • Haha, yeah snap all six axles at once I have it so geared down the motor should top out at 25mph, so all the mechanical advantage with the 10-tooth sprockets. Pending how it drives one of the first changes will probably be getting a higher tooth count to bring the motor rpms down and limit top speed in the software.

                            I've got several months I think before I get this mobile, do been watching for a cheap battery(ies) to pop up on the local market place. I'm thinking I'll probably initially use a NiMH battery with 1-2 kwh worth of power to putt around the yard and prove it works. If I have fun using it around the yard I'll spring for some good lithium batteries.
                            Beagle likes this.
                            Escaped on a technicality.

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                            • Sounds like you have the powertrain resolved but an FYI - my buddy David, the guy who now owns the former Burke Brothers Avanti, owns the golf cart dealership in Waynesville, NC. I have no clue what he has in his bone yard but if you need any of that kind of stuff PM me and I'll put you two in contact.

                              Dan

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                              • Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                                I put the transmission back together and was never happy with the band adjustments. Certainly not happy enough to really do much else with the finicky 2-stroke engine, so it sat until recently. I've decided to convert this to electric. Ditch the 2-stroke and the transmission at the same time. Initially I was looking for a pair of cheap electric golf carts to run a motor on each side, which would require two of everything, controller, direction controller, etc. But the cost kept me from really moving forward with it. Figuring it would be at minimum around $900 plus batteries for ~10-16HP worth of power. Then I came across a Toyota rear axle electric drive motor (MGR - Motor Generator Rear) that could be had for $100!

                                For $100 I'd get a ~68HP electric motor coupled to an open differential. Figured using some disc brakes and pair of master cylinders I could modulate power left and right similar to how people do it on dune buggies in the sand. With this research I found a group working on using Toyota Prius inverters to run about any kind of electric motor, at least upwards 150HP worth of control. The controller is still very much a work in progress and reminds me of Megasquirt in the early early days, before I even started with it. So it'll be a challenge. Anyways, I picked up two Toyota inverters, a Gen2 and Gen3, each for $50. I'm going to attempt to build the cheapest controller option for sub-$100 but may end up purchasing a more assembled, nearly plug and play kit for around $350. We'll see! I will still have to sort out a battery to use, but bonus is the Toyota inverter can be used to fast charge batteries as well. A neat package.

                                So I yanked out the drivetrain and fuel tank and set the MGR and Gen2 inverter in there to see how it looks. The Gen3 inverter is a bit smaller if I use it.




                                So I sketched out a plan to run some shafts from the MGR, with some brake rotors on it and use a pair of master cylinders on the control levers. I just mocked up the setup today.


                                And how it looks. I plan on cutting out some of the old transmission brackets and slide the whole thing forward. The chain will run from a 10-tooth sprocket to the middle axle directly (middle chain) and get rid of the upper jack shaft. Using a 1998 Kawasaki Ninja front brake setup was the cheapest route I could find on E-bay.






                                So what could go wrong going from a peaky ~20-30HP engine to an instantaneous 68HP power plant???
                                Or she starts taking on water in a swamp / marsh crossing and you get electrocuted. People will talk about you forever .
                                Previously HoosierL98GTA

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