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  • Ha, the thing is from the 80's, I'm not sure how much I would trust it "floating" even with the gas engine Well there is always Flex Seal!

    A little more mock up. I removed the jackshaft and it seems it's #60 chain and not #50 so I need to get new sprockets. The calipers clear the chain by barely, but enough not to worry about. I will probably mount the MGR where it sits here. Any more forward and it gets into the seat area.

    I will likely make a cross bracket that utilizes the existing side bolt holes on the frame to the vertical mounting holes on the MGR. The brake caliper hoses bolt right to the master cylinders I bought,but come up short connecting them directly to the control sticks.


    So moving the master cylinders back, I'll modify the shafts originally connected to the control sticks to reach the master cylinders now tucked under the seat area.



    The calipers clearing the brakes. Even with vertical chain "slap" it should not hit the calipers. Now just a matter of building the caliper brackets.



    An overview of the setup.
    Last edited by TheSilverBuick; July 25, 2020, 09:50 PM.
    DanStokes likes this.
    Escaped on a technicality.

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    • That just looks fantastic ! Looks like it should have been made thst way .
      Previously HoosierL98GTA

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      • I did some more brake system mock up. I'm going to be brake hose length limited so I need to bolt in the MGR unit first then mount the master cylinders in a place that the brake lines can reach the calipers. That being said, I made one brake rod which if I have to either cut down or make a new longer one, that'd be okay, but I wanted to be certain that this would work.

        This is roughly where the master cylinders should end up, but the MGR will move forward (and upwards) some, so I may move the master cylinders forward accordingly, or not. What I also need to find is brake fluid resistant hose for the reservoirs. I'll get a tee fitting and single reservoir for the two cylinders.



        In action. I'll have a real return spring mounted on the system when it's all together. One that will probably apply the brakes some so if the controls are let go of it'll slow down more than the motor drag. I haven't decided if I'm going to have the motor regen "brake" when the throttle is let up, or use the old throttle control as a regen "engine brake" control.


        And as I'm getting parts together for the electrical side of it. I want to be able to test the inverter performance and learn a little bit of tuning without risking shorting out the MGR unit, so I dug out one my old internally regulated alternators and gutted the regulator parts out and in theory should be able to run this as a motor using the Toyota inverter. If I short it out I have a few more stacked up, lol.
        milner351, hauen and DanStokes like this.
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        • Got all the pieces to assemble to primary control board. About $60 in parts including the PCB board. This board alone unfortunately will not run the type of electric motor I got, so I have bought another sensor board the supplement this one to get all the inputs I need. That board cost me $25 after shipping, and will have to buy probably $10 in parts. However, with the basic board I should be able to run the modified alternator as a motor without issue.

          Starting my EV conversion control like I started my move to EFI, with a solder together "Science Fair" of a project

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          • Assembled the board tonight! I didn't solder the blue pill (processor chip) to the board, I'm going to pick up a socket for it incase I brick or short the blue pill loading in firmware or in event of mis-wiring (or goofing up the current sensor signal...) I'll be able to quickly swap in another chip. I need to make two smaller signal processing boards, I've got a digi-key cart full of parts for them, but I'm going out of town until the end of the month so the order will have to wait until then.



            I also got the motor mostly bolted in. I need to double check that the motor is square to the frame then drill the final holes in the rear support frame and lock it down, then make the shaft end bearing supports.
            DanStokes and Beagle like this.
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