Buinicorn the 1964 Skylark wagon sleeper

[1946Austin]

I use weld through primer, but I wont weld metal with it on. I grind the edges to be welded off first. It's just a PITA to weld that crap.

Great looking floor!

[SuperBuickGuy]

Thank You for the testimonials on the "Weld Thru Primer". I was wondering how that stuff works, I was more worried about fumes coming off, my shop "Fog's Up" with weld fumes enough already.
And if you have to grind off spatter, what did you gain? You will have to primer it again.

the idea is it keeps stuff from rusting, but there's also cavity wax that does the same thing without the welding problems (since it's added after painting)

[Captain]

Thank You for the testimonials on the "Weld Thru Primer". I was wondering how that stuff works, I was more worried about fumes coming off, my shop "Fog's Up" with weld fumes enough already.
And if you have to grind off spatter, what did you gain? You will have to primer it again.

[SuperBuickGuy]

back to floors


this thing has more waves then a beauty pagent



who says a Buick's weight isn't useful?


more Buick and Chevy weight... fun fact, I had no idea I had those 882 heads..


would you look at that, it's not wood


I will never use weld-through primer... this car lasted longer then me without it, and it will last longer then me once fixed.... it splatters, and burns.... and emits cuss words

[SuperBuickGuy]

a lot better than I could accomplish back in my body shop days, when I would try to make the fender lips from scratch

this car was fixed by Michelangelo's distant offspring, so no... no I will not

[silver_bullet]

a lot better than I could accomplish back in my body shop days, when I would try to make the fender lips from scratch

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward
door

slightly rust skin

so today I decided to suck it up (wearing a face mask of course) and do the dusty tasks that are between me and done

so I got to it



and the inside of the door shell got a rust convert plus paint

as did the skin

and then fit it together


and viola


have to weld or braze these edges


then a weld-thru coat on the new metal floor


then onto fitting the quarter panel... I'm still questioning why I bought it.... nothing on it fits - not even the wheel opening




it is progress....

[SuperBuickGuy]

what do you use for the rust converter?

[fatguyzinc]

what do you use for the rust converter?

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to work on the worst damage

for a sedan but I'll make it work



I know this is strange, but the easiest way to see if something is the same on both sides is take a picture.... in this case, in person it looked like the right side was in further then the left.... the picture says no

a bit long

hmmm.. line ups

rough cut on the front

lined up again, notice it dives? that's correct(ish)

much closer


and as I'm ADD, a door fix as well

rust converting

it needed it, and sound deadener removal


picture to remember how the door goes back together

inside needs rust converting too


initial fit - and many of the dents are gone..... still have a couple more, but it's better

[SuperBuickGuy]

when we last left you, grinding was happening

then rust converting

lots of converting

then the smoke got let out

then more grinding (I buy these by the 6 pack - and need to buy more)

then a test fit

not bad, hit most of what I aimed at with the weld holes


tomorrow paint (converter is still drying), then thursday weld this down and get onto the next hole

[SuperBuickGuy]

need to start assembling this (mostly just to get all the parts in one spot)...



time for motor mounts adjustment

and then the fun begins

at least the Camaro mounts move it higher



mounts,, move from here

to here (too far)

to here.... just right



too much clearance...


while I am all about keeping the pan away from danger, I also want it as low as possible to make room up top

In this particular case, and to get it off the floorboard

then onto grinding (or, how to take a picture where it looks like nothing has changed)

[SuperBuickGuy]

so beside going to a swap meet then a car show in the rain and hail today, got a bit more accomplished
my bumper is back

as I mentioned before, they said it was too much work/impossible.
under the wrap is a shiny, straight one

I'm, in the end, happy with them. Initially, they wanted more for the replacement bumper, but on their own initiative, dropped the price to reasonable. Here's how that worked... I could have bought another bumper for $450, the chroming was $500 for a straight bumper (straightish). They charged me $950.... when I first talked to them, they were $400 higher.... it wasn't a 'deal' but it was fair and, to me, that's excellent.

also bought some Camaro motor mounts so I don't have to ginsu my Buick ones


then chopped the heck out of the back for the battery box

[SuperBuickGuy]

metal work continued



test kinks


kink1


bead rolled



then the boxes

for the battery and bottle

[SuperBuickGuy]

I suppose sandblasting would to that to it....