Buinicorn the 1964 Skylark wagon sleeper

[SuperBuickGuy]

interference fit is bad


still not perfect but a lot closer





it is actually resting on the pan -


and it needs to go down a touch


ah well, now that I see the problems hopefully I'll see solutions at SEMA....

[65RHDEER]

That wasn't part of the plan but that will be a small bump in the road for you.

[silver_bullet]

https://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/30...SABEgKRF_D_BwE

[SuperBuickGuy]

https://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/30...SABEgKRF_D_BwE

the 302 is probably what I'm going with, but 301 and 303 are options as well (part number). I wanted to see if I could just trim the pan the re-weld the bottom back on... and that answer is "not without raising the motor".... which is a non-starter, no hood scoop as it would totally kill the vibe I'm going for with this car.

[silver_bullet]

Is notching the cross member out of the question? Helped a friend install a 6.2 diesel in an olds 98 years ago, that’s what we did...

[SuperBuickGuy]

Is notching the cross member out of the question? Helped a friend install a 6.2 diesel in an olds 98 years ago, that’s what we did...

that is what some do - and if this was a 'budget' build, it's what I'd do.... but my budget for this is 10k, so I need to watch dollars but not really overwork... at this point I'm at about $2600 spent (including purchase price). Next is intake (400), oil pans (600) (trans and engine), flexplate (100), brackets for accessories (200). I already have the driveshaft and radiator. I plan on saving some funds by reflashing the computer and having the harness thinned (200). That should make it a driver. (4100)

After, as far as budget, a/c (1400), paint/supplies (1000), chrome bumper (700), and recover the interior (1000).... total est. $8200... which means it's at 10k because I'm sure I've forgotten stuff and there's still tires/wheels (which will be 15s and poverty caps...). I won't sell it for less than 20k.... works out to about $2/hr labor.

[ejs262]

car intake manifolds are WAY lower profile, and apparently, the Dorman replacement parts manifolds actually make more power compared to stock car manifolds. you can also pick intakes up pretty cheap used.

[SuperBuickGuy]

SEMA picture

[SuperBuickGuy]

and back... and removing the engine. again

where it's silver is where it needs to be beat


and just a bit on the passenger side for trans line clearance


it whacked easily


and voila, engine and trans on their mounts


need to replace the pan, but it all seems to fit


and finish welding the floorpan


I didn't order parts before SEMA so I'm kind of at the mercy of waiting for parts - but I have most of what I need to assemble the motor coming. I'll replace the oil pump with a high volume pump and swap cams mostly because I'm there... I think I even have a driveshaft for this....

[SuperBuickGuy]

car intake manifolds are WAY lower profile, and apparently, the Dorman replacement parts manifolds actually make more power compared to stock car manifolds. you can also pick intakes up pretty cheap used.

I vaguely remember the test from ages ago.... any idea what the Dorman was made for? or part number? all I'm finding on Google is truck manifolds - which will not fit under the hood....

and let me assure you all again that when this is said and done this 6.0 will be my mule motor....

[SuperBuickGuy]

test fit the exhaust manifolds, no joy, passenger side works great, driver's side ... not so much

pulled plugs while doing it.... amazing how awesome they look for a motor that has 200k miles

driver's side (front to back)

interestingly enough.. I have a driveshaft.

[1946Austin]

When you're done with this maybe you can do one in my old '69 Suburban!

[SuperBuickGuy]

When you're done with this maybe you can do one in my old '69 Suburban!

you missed a career in comedy. That said, the entire point of blogging what has been blogged a billion times before is to compile a story that someone can follow - to that end, it should be helpful for you. One bit - I bought the Denali, in part, thinking it'd save me money by having the entire vehicle - but really that isn't true I'm not using much of the Denali. About the only place, so far, it seems I might save a could dollars is the accessories - the brackets cost $150, buying all the other bits (alternator, power steering pump) brings that total to nearly $800.... which would be great savings if I was going to use hydroboost....and who knows, I might yet.... That said, find a van with a 6.0 LS in it from the insurance auction... that would save you dollars in your 'burb because you'd use the motor and trans. You'd still need the brackets, but you could use the rest of the stuff (hydroboost, etc)....

[1946Austin]

I talked to a guy at a local cruise about 18 months ago who had a '72 Chevy 4x4 he'd dropped on an 2008 4x4 Chevy frame. He said that's really the simplest, easiest, and fastest way to go on my old Suburban. I'm just not sure I want all the other late model running gear. Not even sure I want the OD trans. It would be nice, but I doubt I'm doing enough traveling with my '69 to worry about OD.
I contemplated doing the simple LS swap where you just bolt the engine to my TH400 and do the intake and distributor swap to get a carb, and eliminate the computer. But then I'd lose the part I like, the electronic fuel injection.

I sure love the looks of the '64-'65 Skylarks! And the wagon is even neater!

[ejs262]

I vaguely remember the test from ages ago.... any idea what the Dorman was made for? or part number? all I'm finding on Google is truck manifolds - which will not fit under the hood....

and let me assure you all again that when this is said and done this 6.0 will be my mule motor....

here's the Dorman part, it's about $430,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-615-901/overview/

Here's an AC Delco part listed as "top section only" for $240, If the picture is accurate, it should also work for you.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...make/chevrolet