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Buinicorn the 1964 Skylark wagon sleeper

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  • Monster
    replied
    I love this project !

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    for the next week or so, this gets front burner... I've got to get the floor painted so I can mount the body to the frame....
    first, remove harness

    remove frame

    put on Corvette dolly


    I also really need to start planning the details... things like power windows and such.... I think I have most of what I need to make it mobile.... but no gauges - if what I use needs dash mods, now would be a pretty good time to do it.... and on and on... very comfortable, fast, fast, car... one I could race if the vehicle I'm towing becomes incapacitated....

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I'd go with epoxy and undercoat. This is not likely to become a museum piece so I'd go with fun and functional.

    Dan

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    Epoxy paint and possibly lizardskin?

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Now that the '40 is running fine (enough), the Corvette is mostly maintenance, it's time to get this running....
    and look, a thing happened

    first, some lightening


    door free




    okay, decision time... do I paint underneath or just epoxy paint and undercoat?

    you'll note both Buicks are on the plate (and I may take a suggestion I got about leaving the patina - for now - on the 50 and making it run....

    so suggestion about the underneath of the wagon....?

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    more fine tuning.... a warning, though. This will not be perfect. I plan on driving this and even race it (though using it as my race-tow-car has great appeal to me).... okay

    first get the lines within bondo distance


    back it


    the other side, I needed to slot the wheel well because (guessing here) the Skylark sedan has less of a curve

    so weld it so water can't get behind the filler


    minor grinding while waiting for things to cool


    fix the corner - again, so water cannot get behind the filler


    betterish... not going to spend a lot of time here... when the next rebuilder gets to it, this will give him something to bitch about

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    If my calculations are correct, I have about a day more of welding - then undercoating and sound deadening. Then I can remount the body forever
    so onward

    patch

    weld

    stitch underneath

    then more work making the side perfect

    the whole point is to anneal the metal... it will shrink naturally but first I need to get the brittleness back out before I pound on it again

    and I'll have to do this repeated before I hit it with a hammer again. Heat, let cool naturally....


    mostly I have to fill the rest of the trim holes but also do just a bit of welding inside the wheel wells

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    and more hole welding


    some welded up

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    and back to fixing holes


    first hole


    second hole... the metal was contaminated with something - probably lead


    brazing worked

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  • ejs262
    replied
    I have a factory service manual for my Fiero, it's a godsend, I don't know what I would do without it

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  • Captain
    replied
    SBG<
    your post of the 18th, that book is a GOLD MINE !!!
    And the reason some of the pages are Funky......Most of Those books and original pages were 14x17, and must have been reduced
    on the copier.
    Continue On Dude, You must have a Large Wallet and a Understanding WIFE for all these Great Projects

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    well, this goes to the back burner again for a bit.. but first, got the trans dipstick then reassembled the car

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  • langleylad
    replied
    Rust repair is a PITA but it's very gratifying

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    new tool. do I recommend? maybe. It's about as powerful as an air die grinder - the straight kind. So it is useful, but keep in mind I punched one hole with it and did the rest with my larger Makita..... which is dying because I use it to smoke coming out - and it keeps working but the writing is on the wall for it (and my Makita sawzall)



    these were done with the Makita - this is the rear-most mounts on the car and both were rusted solid - so no choice but to cut replace the nuts and weld back (when I get my nuts)


    I can't imagine why GM made this nut-holder so complex


    this was done with the new tool


    finished welding the battery box


    the rest of my evening was a fan-favorite wire brush the dirt off the underside

    I weighed it, 10 lbs of dirt


    tomorrow a bit more cleaning then likely put the body back on because the motor may be ready for my Corvette.... I need to get it out of the shop because the next parts of the Buick are dirty in both dust and overspray

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    well would you look at what I found


    someone had a book, copied the pages, then bound them into a reference manual. Whoever did this, you're a legend, a hero, and savior of the universe.


    all is not 100% happy, though, because the copies are not all very clear. That said, it is more than good enough for me
    picture of blurs in the shape of words


    frame got rolled outside and covered because the most hateful task is ahead

    cleaning the underside

    and, of course, welding (until I ran out of gas)




    once this is done, etch primer, maybe paint? maybe undercoating? maybe bed liner? I honestly don't know yet

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