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Buinicorn the 1964 Skylark wagon sleeper

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  • #91
    The ashtray was always pretty easy to reach in my '66 Special. Same car/interior as your Skylark.....
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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    • #92
      Plug the switch in the ciggy lighter, that way you have to plug it in, velcro it to your hand when using it..


      Kinda hokey huh?

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      • #93
        http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1963-1964-196...JZZTUO&vxp=mtr

        Click image for larger version

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        http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1969-1975-Old...VX-QVE&vxp=mtr

        Click image for larger version

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        I think the turn signal stalk one would be the coolest. I have a tilt column from an early 70's Riviera that has one if you are interested.
        Attached Files
        Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
        74 Nova Project
        66 Mustang GT Project

        92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
        79 Chevy Truck Project
        1956 Cadillac Project

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        • #94
          Originally posted by STINEY View Post
          The ashtray was always pretty easy to reach in my '66 Special. Same car/interior as your Skylark.....

          uh, no. the 66-7 are a much larger body car. The interiors do look similar, though.
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • #95
            Originally posted by 74NovaMan View Post
            http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1963-1964-196...JZZTUO&vxp=mtr

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1166674[/ATTACH]

            http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1969-1975-Old...VX-QVE&vxp=mtr

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1166675[/ATTACH]

            I think the turn signal stalk one would be the coolest. I have a tilt column from an early 70's Riviera that has one if you are interested.

            that is an interesting idea - add on cruise control.... just controls the cruise
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • #96
              Oops, razzing got me in trouble - and it is true, he did look; you'll have to ask him if this is its slightly rustier twin.
              https://bangshift.com/general-news/p...comment-154046

              Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 14, 2017, 08:15 PM.
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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              • #97
                hard work pays dividends... film @ 11
                Patrick & Tammy
                - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                • #98
                  Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
                  hard work pays dividends... film @ 11
                  Ok, Peewee...

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                  • #99
                    rust repairs coming soon

                    they are close-ish

                    better too long then too short?

                    no big deal, I know a guy who knows a guy who can make this into scrap

                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • So I had a free hour tonight.... decided to dive into what I know this thing needs


                      I'm a bit disappointed in the metal work - but they were cheap, wrong, but cheap so it gives me enough metal to pound and a general shape... so away we go


                      leaky windows with no drain.... big surprise... not


                      a bit of trimming


                      I did this in two pieces because of that fitment issue -


                      you can see the issue where the seam is for the wheel opening....


                      it should be where the black line is... but not all the way down - which is why I cut it in two and will weld it back together. It's easier to knock it straight in a small panel
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • Looks good. Is painting season over yet?
                        Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
                        74 Nova Project
                        66 Mustang GT Project

                        92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
                        79 Chevy Truck Project
                        1956 Cadillac Project

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by 74NovaMan View Post
                          Looks good. Is painting season over yet?
                          Another 2-3 weeks then pfffft!

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                          • As some know, I have a bit of an incline from my house to the shop. The wagon doesn't have paint on it, it will rain next weekend, and I need my lift back...
                            Mind you, the PO said "the brakes went out"...

                            so I put fluid in hoping that I'd see where it was leaking... EUREKA...


                            I think I see the problem


                            Did you know that Corvette brake lines interchange with rear, 64 Buick lines? you do now


                            now it has brakes.... yay.
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Lest you think I've forgotten - these showed up on my doorstep today

                              not perfect, but a whole lot better then the ones on the car...
                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                              • Originally posted by CTX-SLPR View Post
                                Here's my thoughts and I'm going to preface this with you can go two ways with this depending on what your overall intent is with the car.

                                Plan 1: Use what you have here as a foundation. This is mainly if the basics of the motor aren't junk or you want something simpler to deal with. Above all check www.turbobuick.com for second hand stuff and even recipes for builds. www.gnttype.org is very dated but has a ton of good info as well..
                                Absolutely go through the motor and give it a decent refresh; i.e. new rings and bearings, bottlebrush the oil galleries and coolant passages, replace the freeze plugs, etc. When you want to step it up, unless you are avoiding rebalancing the rotating assembly, get a set of aftermarket Diamond or JE forged pistons. The stockers are heavy and durable but very old school. Get a set of Champion CNC ported heads or there are a few other folks with good heads, Champions are just extremely repeatable and a solid value. If you are going to move the turbo from the stock "hot air" setup, you might as well go full 86-87 "intercooled" intake, stockers aren't too expensive (or restricting) and Champion offers CNC ported units to match their (and most other) ported iron heads. The "hot air" intake isn't very good and will leave you with a ton of compromises. Going "intercooled" on the intake will also let you get away from the throttle mounted to the inlet of the turbo which means you HAVE to run a specific type of seal (carbon something or other) on the turbo to keep it from pulling oil past the seal on closed throttle. A very big restriction going with other turbos. I've not played in the aftermarket EFI game on these engines but I know the MS community is strong for it based on DieselGeek's testimony on them doing the early DIS work and one of the most prolific experimenters in the Turbo6 world Bruce Plecan (RIP good friend) was getting into MS1 before he died. I successfully have adapted an L67 FWD ECM to run my LC2 ("intercooled") based 4.1 motor. Lastly, these motors do not like to rev very high, most people even with heavy cars like a 90's B-body wagon tend to go for the 3.42's or maybe 3.73's at the highest on the rear gears. 4.10's will virtually guarantee you shift into 4th in the quarter and TH200-4Rís arenít setup to survive doing that long term from what Iíve heard (I run a 4L80E).

                                Plan 2: Going with a different foundation. This is probably higher power capacity but definitely more work.
                                Put a L67 long block in it and dig up a 4rd Gen F-body L36 intake and a workable oil pan (canít remember what works) to convert it to RWD. This will give you a much more rev tolerant engine with a strong short block that will take more power in the long run. There are a number of folks who have built this combo over on www.turbobuick.com and other than the mounts, oil pan, and dealing with a 4L60E itís pretty simple. I think one of them is even running an MS3 setup on his. A stock L67 is pretty durable, most of the problems with the cars with them were the weak 4T65Eís vs. the engine but running lean they will pinch rings and chip pistons. Stock replacement pistons are cheap and even coated frequently. Aftermarket support for the L67 is still fairly strong with aftermarket pistons off the shelf, P&P heads still around, and a decent selection of cams. The L67 is also lighter than the classic 3.8L. They do make adapter plates to run Chevy trans behind the Metric60 patterned L67 and F-bodies came with basically a fox body V8 world class T-5 in a GM case if you want a stick. Overall they are a better engine than the 3.8L, much like the Gen III (i.e. LS1) is an evolution of the Gen I/II SBC they take the basic core but vastly update it with durability and performance improvements. The L67 really is the LS1 of the Buick V6 line; same bore and stroke but shorter deck height, slipper pistons, roller cams, on center block geometry, symmetric ports, etc.

                                Get that motor you have unstuck and see if itís worth building (if the block is still standard bore and not a 20 bolt oil pan, I might be interested if itís usable).
                                Stiney - here's the blueprint for your kid's car thanks CTX
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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