as long as you don't spring to conclusions, we'll be fine.
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Buinicorn the 1964 Skylark wagon sleeper
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anyone have any clever way of getting the rear tailgate to release? I suspect the latches got water in them and they corroded.... of course, because the gate is closed, I can't put any fluid in the area between the gate and the fender.... I've sprayed the back with lubricant, but I suspect that the fluid isn't getting anywhere it needs to go..... If it gets too tough, the right side has a lot of bondo in it, so cutting the drilling out from the back would solve the right side... but the left is pristine and I don't want to hurt it if at all possible.....
suggestions?
this video shows the style of latch at 1:53
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 19, 2019, 09:22 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Can you take the tailgate interior trim off and lube the latches from the inside, you could also give them a tap with a hammer to loosen them up from in there.Tim
Melbourne Australia
65 Hardtop Impala, 70 GTS Monaro, 93 "80" Landcruiser
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That looks a LOT like the latch on the TR7 door I fought with (and eventually won)
Dan's trick of a swift boot kick from inside finally did the job. I modified his patented technique by preloading the latch with pressure, but the premise is similar enough.
https://www.bangshift.com/forum/foru...ph-tr-7/page18Last edited by STINEY; June 20, 2019, 07:11 AM.Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
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I know absolutely nothing about anything much less Buicks
BUT if I am remembering correctly on my wagon the mechanism lived inside the tailgate with screws holding it in place that screwed in from the outside (side) of the tailgate My tailgate also had large access holes under the upholstery. IF yours is anything like that you might be able to get in there with a cut-off wheel and wack some stuff up.Last edited by cstmwgn; June 20, 2019, 11:27 AM.
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it's back in the shop
so a dent was added to this corner but I'm going to say it's what loosened the tailgate...
this is what the latch looks like
the MO, I soaked the snot out of those latches (and when I got it open it doesn't look like much lubricant got in), then wanged the corner putting it in the shop (oops).... but that loosened the driver's side, the passenger side took just a bit of prying to get it to pop loose - so the advice about kicking from the inside probably would have worked too... all the suspension points are soaking in lube and probably tomorrow night I'll get on getting the parts on....I need a C3 break, so this is it... plan is get the suspension on, get the motor mounts done, driveshaft measured, then pull the motor and trans out for rebuild.... while that happens I'll start on the body, though likely I'll get back on the Corvette.... I'm having... nevermind, I'll post the issue there - maybe someone has a solution....
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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no posi but 4.11 gears
Richmond Pinion No. 80-8053-1
Spec is as follows
Ring and Pinion Ratio: 4.11:1
Cover Bolts: 10
Ring Gear Bolts: 10
Pinion Spline Count: 25
Carrier Series: 3
Ring Gear Rotation: Standard
Ring Gear Teeth: 37
Pinion Gear Teeth: 9
Ring Gear Diameter (in): 8.200 in.
Pinion Shaft Diameter (in): 1.438 in
Fits GM 8.2 10 Bolt Axle
pictures later, right now I'm trying to figure out where I put the steering boxDoing it all wrong since 1966
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heh, and the pictures saved me.
bench o parts
well, that's not right.... this is a 8.2 not a BOP 8.5... dang but at least 4.11... though with that said, this is a temporary axle now
someone has been in there, but why would you rebuild a peg-legger?
the steering box was where I left it, sitting above the installed one.... spent some time trying to find it... hidding in plain sight.Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 26, 2019, 09:10 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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