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Buinicorn the 1964 Skylark wagon sleeper
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Originally posted by RockJustRock View PostNow to sound dumb and creepy, the YouPullit motor is for test fit?Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by RockJustRock View Post
my 70 Skylark with a 455 and 4 speed was 3200 lbs as per scales near my home..... so no, no kidding..... all that safety stuff they load into cars these days add a great deal of weight - by comparison people are 'doing good' with a GNX if they get to 3800 lbs.... The Corvette, with it's 'light fiberglass panels' is 3600 and 3300 if you really do some solid weight reduction.... or consider this, the 50 Buick Sedanet that is on the waiting list - it weighs 1600 lbs right now (with no motor/trans).... the Fiat 124 I have weighs more at 1800 lbs.
Even more on that vein, which do you think weighs less, my 1994 Diesel suburban or my 2018 Colorado? how about the FJ40 v. my wife's 2014 Jeep JK?
I've had all of these on the scales... it goes like this... the Suburban weighs 200 lbs less then the Colorado. The FJ40 weighs 600 lbs less then my wife's JK....
All the work and lightening on my C3 Corvette... I'll be lucky to be under 3500 lbsLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 9, 2019, 04:03 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Like I said, goals. You want to build an 8 sec. 2500 Lb. car as a station wagon, go for it.
All I know is if THAT is a "lunch money" motor and we ever go out to eat YOU are picking up the check!Last edited by RockJustRock; September 11, 2019, 02:08 AM.My hobby is needing a hobby.
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Originally posted by RockJustRock View PostLike I said, goals. You want to build an 8 sec. 2500 Lb. car as a station wagon, go for it.
All I know is if THAT is a "lunch money" motor and we ever go out to eat YOU are picking up the check!
in other news, I need to find a 97-08 motor.... still think I should find a rwd for the accessories, but that's mostly ignorance on my part.... perhaps they're the same configuration fwd/rwd?Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 11, 2019, 05:19 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by CTX-SLPR View PostHere's my thoughts and I'm going to preface this with you can go two ways with this depending on what your overall intent is with the car.
Plan 2: Going with a different foundation. This is probably higher power capacity but definitely more work.
Put a L67 long block in it and dig up a 4rd Gen F-body L36 intake and a workable oil pan (can’t remember what works) to convert it to RWD. This will give you a much more rev tolerant engine with a strong short block that will take more power in the long run. There are a number of folks who have built this combo over on www.turbobuick.com and other than the mounts, oil pan, and dealing with a 4L60E it’s pretty simple. I think one of them is even running an MS3 setup on his. A stock L67 is pretty durable, most of the problems with the cars with them were the weak 4T65E’s vs. the engine but running lean they will pinch rings and chip pistons. Stock replacement pistons are cheap and even coated frequently. Aftermarket support for the L67 is still fairly strong with aftermarket pistons off the shelf, P&P heads still around, and a decent selection of cams. The L67 is also lighter than the classic 3.8L. They do make adapter plates to run Chevy trans behind the Metric60 patterned L67 and F-bodies came with basically a fox body V8 world class T-5 in a GM case if you want a stick. Overall they are a better engine than the 3.8L, much like the Gen III (i.e. LS1) is an evolution of the Gen I/II SBC they take the basic core but vastly update it with durability and performance improvements. The L67 really is the LS1 of the Buick V6 line; same bore and stroke but shorter deck height, slipper pistons, roller cams, on center block geometry, symmetric ports, etc.
Get that motor you have unstuck and see if it’s worth building (if the block is still standard bore and not a 20 bolt oil pan, I might be interested if it’s usable).
now to figure out accessories - it will have power steering and a/c.... because Buick.
and I will loosen the valve train to see if that is what is stuck - I don't really want to blow it apart until I know I have a buyer. That said, there was no water in the bottom end
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; September 11, 2019, 05:25 AM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by CTX-SLPR View PostHere's my thoughts and I'm going to preface this with you can go two ways with this depending on what your overall intent is with the car.
Plan 1: Use what you have here as a foundation. This is mainly if the basics of the motor aren't junk or you want something simpler to deal with. Above all check www.turbobuick.com for second hand stuff and even recipes for builds. www.gnttype.org is very dated but has a ton of good info as well..
Absolutely go through the motor and give it a decent refresh; i.e. new rings and bearings, bottlebrush the oil galleries and coolant passages, replace the freeze plugs, etc. When you want to step it up, unless you are avoiding rebalancing the rotating assembly, get a set of aftermarket Diamond or JE forged pistons. The stockers are heavy and durable but very old school. Get a set of Champion CNC ported heads or there are a few other folks with good heads, Champions are just extremely repeatable and a solid value. If you are going to move the turbo from the stock "hot air" setup, you might as well go full 86-87 "intercooled" intake, stockers aren't too expensive (or restricting) and Champion offers CNC ported units to match their (and most other) ported iron heads. The "hot air" intake isn't very good and will leave you with a ton of compromises. Going "intercooled" on the intake will also let you get away from the throttle mounted to the inlet of the turbo which means you HAVE to run a specific type of seal (carbon something or other) on the turbo to keep it from pulling oil past the seal on closed throttle. A very big restriction going with other turbos. I've not played in the aftermarket EFI game on these engines but I know the MS community is strong for it based on DieselGeek's testimony on them doing the early DIS work and one of the most prolific experimenters in the Turbo6 world Bruce Plecan (RIP good friend) was getting into MS1 before he died. I successfully have adapted an L67 FWD ECM to run my LC2 ("intercooled") based 4.1 motor. Lastly, these motors do not like to rev very high, most people even with heavy cars like a 90's B-body wagon tend to go for the 3.42's or maybe 3.73's at the highest on the rear gears. 4.10's will virtually guarantee you shift into 4th in the quarter and TH200-4R’s aren’t setup to survive doing that long term from what I’ve heard (I run a 4L80E).
Plan 2: Going with a different foundation. This is probably higher power capacity but definitely more work.
Put a L67 long block in it and dig up a 4rd Gen F-body L36 intake and a workable oil pan (can’t remember what works) to convert it to RWD. This will give you a much more rev tolerant engine with a strong short block that will take more power in the long run. There are a number of folks who have built this combo over on www.turbobuick.com and other than the mounts, oil pan, and dealing with a 4L60E it’s pretty simple. I think one of them is even running an MS3 setup on his. A stock L67 is pretty durable, most of the problems with the cars with them were the weak 4T65E’s vs. the engine but running lean they will pinch rings and chip pistons. Stock replacement pistons are cheap and even coated frequently. Aftermarket support for the L67 is still fairly strong with aftermarket pistons off the shelf, P&P heads still around, and a decent selection of cams. The L67 is also lighter than the classic 3.8L. They do make adapter plates to run Chevy trans behind the Metric60 patterned L67 and F-bodies came with basically a fox body V8 world class T-5 in a GM case if you want a stick. Overall they are a better engine than the 3.8L, much like the Gen III (i.e. LS1) is an evolution of the Gen I/II SBC they take the basic core but vastly update it with durability and performance improvements. The L67 really is the LS1 of the Buick V6 line; same bore and stroke but shorter deck height, slipper pistons, roller cams, on center block geometry, symmetric ports, etc.
Get that motor you have unstuck and see if it’s worth building (if the block is still standard bore and not a 20 bolt oil pan, I might be interested if it’s usable).Patrick & Tammy
- Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
Stock heads in themselves are. Decent head.. But cnc ported and all that black magic, they are awesome heads.
they were disappointed with the power output. dulcich took heads home, did a port/polish
(that i assume included a pentagram drawn on the garage floor and him dancing
naked around a lit-on-fire bucket of KFC...) and got an extra *92* hp !!!!!!!
brother bobby did the H3 tunnel port/polish on the 66 chevelle 396/375 heads that
are on the 461" in the white vette, no dyno numbers but seat of the pants says
60-90hp on that too...
ok, now back to our original programming......Last edited by fatguyzinc; September 12, 2019, 08:28 PM.
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