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C6/WS6 Build Thread

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  • #46

    Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

    We had a guy at Maxton who raced a Lincoln that was a bit built (can't remember his name.....). Anyhow, he ran the AC in the staging lanes then switched it off and turned on his cool shirt pump for the run. Guess it worked for him.

    I see why he did it. The Trans Am makes quite the puddle when it's hot out and the AC is cranking. I'll have to keep that thought in mind if I get any closer to a drag strip haha! I'm 2.5-3hrs from the NEAREST one.

    In other news:

    I took delivery of some parts after a bit of the lapse in the action here haha. UMI came through big time with some very nice additions to the suspension/chassis with their Subframe Connectors, Strut Tower Brace and Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets. The finish/manufacturing is a 10/10. I can't recommend them enough at this point!!!

    the last week or two I've put quite a few miles on the WS6 after work and am starting to love it more and more! Even to the point of contemplating selling the C6 haha! Here's a quick shot I took on an MN backroad a few days ago that turned out ok. Stay tuned for the next video/parts installation post. It'll be this weekend once I have some personal time away from work.


    • #47

      Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

      This Saturday I got all of the UMI pieces installed. Everything went really well, and the fit/finish was excellent on all of the parts. Couldn't be happier!

      Before really diving in to anything I put together some "free" wheel chalks out of some old wood I had laying around. They aren't much to look at, but they are going to keep the car level and not kill me haha. I'm sure I'll have them for many years now.

      The first piece I installed was the Strut Tower brace. This went on in about 10 minutes total. I did this first because the car was flat on the ground with the suspension loaded.

      Here's the car up and juuust a hair out of perfectly level the way things landed front and back height-wise. the suspension was fully loaded front and back, so the car itself was just pitched the slightest bit forward. Might have been 100% perfect if I made two more wheel chalks for the back.

      Here's a shot of the passengers side after installing the SFC, and the LCARB.... You'll notice a little fresh undercoating. I saw a couple spots that were flaking and was in a full panic thinking there was rust behind it (we all know these cars rust out in the lower front wheel wells first.....) Turns out it was just the undercoating flaking off of the perfect paint underneath. I about died haha! I got all the loose product off and sprayed some fresh undercoating on.

      Moving onto the drivers side.... Everything was just as easy as the passengers side with the exception of fighting to get the Lower Control Arm bolt lined up with the holes. It was clear in the instructions having a friend is the best way to do this and they weren't kidding. Luckily I had an old screw jack on the shelf that came in clutch here. I refuse to throw it away because it's saved me on stuff like this many times!! It's not that things didn't fit well, it's that the rear end moved about 1/8 to 1/4" and I couldn't fight it back into alignment with what I had otherwise.

      Last shot is jsut showing everything installed and how nice and parallel the Lower Control Arms now with the LCARB's. The rear end side of them must have dropped 4-5" getting them just about perfectly straight with the frame in front of them.

      If you're interested in checking out any of the products I installed, look at UMI's Website *click me* or reach out to their customer service. Everyone I talked to via email or on the phone there was great.


      • #48

        Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

        This weekend was already the annual "Powercruise USA" event held at Brainerd International Raceway. Had a GREAT time there as usual, and the Corvette drove perfect. Couldn't be happier!


        • #49

          Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

          So, quick update here. Everything has really taken a leap on the YouTube channel in the last week or two, including it getting remonetized. So that's some big news! Big news = big changes, and I got to do my first subscriber giveaway.

          Everything went well getting the car chassis dynoed monday night other than the low number... It really needs a dyno tune.

          Last edited by bjohn; August 15th, 2018, 04:10 PM.


          • #50

            Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

            Last edited by bjohn; November 3rd, 2018, 10:39 PM.


            • #51

              Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

              Everybody does this modification citing it cooling IATs which I agreed with 100%. However, I had never seen how effective the modification really is so I set out to measure it's success myself in the best "bro science" way I possibly could.

              Here's what I found when I did the throttle body coolant bypass on my 2000 WS6... I took multiple measurements with an infrared thermometer before and after installing a TB bypass kit. I drove the same route on the same day, the same way to measure the changes. A video outlining this is below.

              Here is a spreadsheet I put together of the effectiveness of the bypass kits. They all work the same (I'm sure), and in principal should yield similar results. This was done on a 40ish degree day in Minnesota. The "IR TB Temps" were taken with an IR thermometer by averaging two readings. One on the drivers side of the TB, and one on the passengers side.

              There was quite a difference considering the throttle body in theory should have continued to get warmer if thermal heat soak was going to make a large impact. I suspect the coolant was largely responsible for the initial temperature climb, and subsequent temperature decline. You be the judge!!!!
              Last edited by bjohn; December 27th, 2018, 07:32 PM.


              • #52

                Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

                Big update on the car here, and a lot of pictures so bear with me haha. I know you're here to see detail so here goes!

                Here is a link to exactly what I purchased after speaking to Matt @ MWC over the course of a few days. The customer service was excellent, and the product showed up at my house within just a couple of business days. Nothing to complain about so far! Link to Product - Choose options CAREFULLY

                Each bumper support replaces the factory crash bars, and each one is approximately 17-18lbs lighter than the factory part. I would give a solid estimate of shaving 35-36lbs all told with the bumpers and associated hardware replaced.

                Here is a video of the process. It will give some better resolution on the installation process if you are curious.

                I installed them onto my 2000 Pontiac Trans Am for reference. I have done this once before, but it took approximately 3 hours to do. The pace I was working at was "relaxed", as I didn't want to damage and of the body work because the car is in pretty good shape.

                When I removed the factory rear crash bar it came in right at 19.4lbs on my scale.

                Here is a view of the rear bumper support fully installed on the car with the provided hardware. It is zinc coated if I recall (if you care to know). The rear bumper support fit very well, and the slotted holes allowed for some variation in car build. It bolted right up to my car no issue.

                Drivers Side for reference

                Passengers side

                When I reinstalled the rear bumper cover, it fit as it should. You will find that the new bumper support fits very tight to the factory bumper cover. Some people have reported it as being tight to the point of not fitting very well, and if your car has been in an accident, or something isn't quite "square" I could see that being problematic. That being said, mine fit perfect, and I have no complaints.

                Moving onto the front of the car, here's a picture of the factory steel/foam crash bar that is to be removed. I weighted it on my scale, and it came in right at 20lbs. Another good place to save significant weight!

                Thank god that hideous thing is hidden behind the bumper haha

                The front crash bar comes off much easier than the rear. The reason for this is where the mounting hardware is located (have fun getting the top four bolts off of the rear crash bar.... haha)

                Here it is all mounted, again with the provided hardware which you will need.

                One more photo for reference. I apologize for the dark lighting... Can't have it too harsh when you are drinking beer on a winter evening lol.

                Notice the fog lights. The new tubular bumper support has slotted holes that the factory lights/brackets align with very well. There is no hardware provided for mounting these to the new support. Not a big deal, just be prepared to have four nuts, bolts, and lock washers/nylock nuts to fasten them in the end. Very easy to deal with if you are comfortable with doing this job in the first place. I found that the fog lights fit perfect in the bumper cover, and more or less centered themselves when I installed them

                Top view for reference. LOTS more room, and shaved some considerable weight off of the very front end of the car. Perfect.

                All that's left at this point, is to reinstall the bumper cover and associated parts beneath it. Should have it wrapped up in 20-30 minutes at this point!

                When I had the front bumper reinstalled, I found that the front drivers "corner" was solid against the bumper support. I was a little bit worried about the alignment with the fender, but did manage to close the gap if you can use your imagination. I've read that the "tight clearance" is somewhat common, and I could support that thought. I'm curious if there will be any issues with the paint after driving it in the spring. It's TIGHT against it, so take that for what it's worth.

                Here is a little pile of left over hardware after the install. Looks about standard.... right? haha.

                My take away, is that I would highly recommend these parts to people that are beyond the point of basic bolt ons and are looking to save some weight with some seriously cool pieces of hardware. It's a shame that you can't see them when you are all done, because they sure look nice. It's a couple beer install.

                Need to do brakes all around next... Stay tuned.
                Last edited by bjohn; December 27th, 2018, 07:42 PM.


                • #53

                  Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

                  I got a battery tender roughed into the car that was previously on my C6 while it was parked (I've since sold the C6..)

                  I tossed a couple of crimp in alligator clips to connect the tender directly to the battery for now. It was resting at 11.8xVDC since last working on the car, and I really didn't want it to discharge in the wintertime here and freeze.

                  (Cringey, I know...^^^) I have every intent on actually installing the battery tender harness into the car for a more "factory" appearing look in the end.

                  I finished up the installation of the MWC rear bumper support with these little guys. If you read my last post, it outlines the holes that the body darts go into being larger than the OEM bumper support. These darts fit perfect. Note the size difference on the factory dart, next to the replacement one below.

                  Next up on the WS6 is the brakes. The rear passengers side is totally delaminating and rusting.... Yikes. Any input on brake kits? I'd like to do pads and rotors all around, but would definitely consider replacing the calipers as well if there is a palatable option out there. I had been watching another YouTube channel, and a guy installed a "one click brake kit". Really interested in what he found there.

                  That'll give you nightmares^^

                  Last edited by bjohn; December 27th, 2018, 07:38 PM.


                  • #54

                    Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

                    If you can find Brembo ceramic pads that fit the caliper you wind up using, do so. Ran them on the wife's car and she fell in love. I was using EBC red pads at the time and obviously mine are better because blah blah blah.

                    Nope. Found a set for my car. Never going to use anything else if I can find these for the application I'm doing. Amazing.

                    Remember that pad selection goes a long long way, so if you're looking at upgraded calipers and such, ensure you've got a good selection of pad compounds available--something I think people forget frequently.
                    silver_bullet likes this.


                    • #55

                      Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

                      If you can find Brembo ceramic pads that fit the caliper you wind up using, do so. Ran them on the wife's car and she fell in love. I was using EBC red pads at the time and obviously mine are better because blah blah blah.

                      Nope. Found a set for my car. Never going to use anything else if I can find these for the application I'm doing. Amazing.

                      Remember that pad selection goes a long long way, so if you're looking at upgraded calipers and such, ensure you've got a good selection of pad compounds available--something I think people forget frequently.
                      Funny, with all of the talk on other forums of "what pad is best" you don't often hear the name "Brembo" uttered. It's always EBC or Power Stop haha. I'll keep that in mind!

                      I'm more or less looking to upgrade all braking materials in a factory size if that makes sense. Meaning, I don't want to overwhelm the front or rear tires with braking power. So... Something like a good brake pad compound, and a drilled/slotted rotor setup. All in the factory size.


                      • #56

                        Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

                        I've been pretty happy with the Hawk pads - HPS - seem to work pretty good on my applications.


                        • #57

                          Re: C6/WS6 Build Thread

                          EBC seems to work well - that is, when I don't want to deal with going through the balancing process. That said, for 'junk' I use the cheapest pad available because - while they do create a lot of dust, they tend to stop better..... but for stuff that goes fast for fun, I like EBC .... which does NOT mean there isn't similar just that is what I've used.
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966