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  • #46
    The truck came from the factory with 16" splits. I put 16.5 on it until those became almost impossible to find. I then went up to 17" a few years back for tire selection. I can live with the 17" look. I am looking very closely at the Silverado 2500HD OEM stuff (1999 - 2010) as donors. The rub is hubs with an 8 on 6.5 bolt circle force you to a fairly large rotor hat which in turn forces you to a bigger rotor.

    Another option would be to get neutered - then I could probably get by with stock Ford brakes!

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    • #47
      Be forewarned: Little Andy was just neutered and it's taking some time for his old urges to pass. So even if you did the deed you might still want big brakes for at least 6 weeks or longer (might not solve the issue).

      Dan

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      • #48
        Originally posted by milner351 View Post
        I could not more whole heartedly support the "no big wheels on classic vehicle" sentiment. It's sick and wrong. For older trucks, 16" are good! Maybe 17 or 18 if there's no other option (which pushes you into modern looking wheels) but if you can figure a way to put modern truck brakes on the front of this thing, maybe it's worth it.
        What about swapping this over to a modern chassis? You'd get bigger 4 wheel discs all around, longer leaf springs in the rear, and updated front end as well.

        I recently picked up a set of 8 lug conversion brakes for the 49 F3 from TSM. It's probably not enough brakes for you, if you're already thinking your 2 piston front discs are not enough, but for us mere mortals, it's a great upgrade to the 4 wheel drums, which you can't get parts for anymore. Maybe worth looking at.
        I just drove a 2003 grand marquis back from Florida, in two days, through mostly rain. The improvement of this car over the 1998 I'm used to (with the tranditional parallelogram steering) is very VERY noticeable.
        I'm not sure about the load carrying capability of the 03 up panther front end - but with all the folks using them, I'm sure you'll find examples with some
        googling.

        Milner: load carrying capability... Kind of a slippery slope.. BBR put one of those front ends in his F250, made it into a sport truck
        How good are these Panthers? My granddaughters have 3 on the farm (10-12 yr olds) they give adults rides thru the fields and do donuts..
        When we get to them, they will get older front ends bolted in because the aluminum components break in derbys..
        The grands' cars have lots of miles on them. And were used as pit manouver trainers with push bars.
        My son daily drives a P71 that had 119,000miles on it when he bought it (detective's car). Has near 200,000 miles and only had to replace some vac hoses.
        Why are they good derby cars? The crush box under the firewall is one of the straightest around.
        Look up BLIZZARD BASH, most of those cars are Panthers!

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        • #49
          Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
          The truck came from the factory with 16" splits. I put 16.5 on it until those became almost impossible to find. I then went up to 17" a few years back for tire selection. I can live with the 17" look. I am looking very closely at the Silverado 2500HD OEM stuff (1999 - 2010) as donors. The rub is hubs with an 8 on 6.5 bolt circle force you to a fairly large rotor hat which in turn forces you to a bigger rotor.

          Another option would be to get neutered - then I could probably get by with stock Ford brakes!
          Dad's 56 Ford pickup with the 9 foot bed had 17" split rims from the factory
          Early chev flatbed dualies (50's) also had 17's.
          I would imagine you can find 17" to look right... But then I never looked..

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          • #50
            I can live with 17s (as that is what I have now). I could live with 18s if needed. I am not sure about the 20s but if I go with a tall enough tire, then the aspect ratio wont be that bad. Right now, I am seriously working on figuring out if I can adapt Silverado rotors and calipers to my hubs. I need to call LKQ to see if they are having a Thanksgiving sale. Our local yard doesn't list a very good inventory of 2500HDs but all I need is one to get some measurements from to know if I am going down the wrong road.

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            • #51
              Just how much braking do you want/need??

              You know that all the stuff from any disc brake equipped F250 Twin I beam Truck up to & including 1979 is basically a bolt in?? **(best bet is to harvest everything from one donor vehicle)

              Follow these recipes, but switch donor from F100 to F250

              http://mongrelmotorsports.purpleflyi...f100discs.html

              http://www.fordification.com/tech/discbrakes01.htm

              http://www.fordification.com/tech/powersteering.htm

              http://www.fordification.com/tech/steering-column.htm

              Some good resources for '61-'66 trucks:

              https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum40/

              http://www.slick60s.com/

              Fordification's separate site for '61-'66 stuff (no forums)

              http://www.fordification.info/

              =============================================

              *For '67-'72, but plenty of the info is also applicable to Slicks

              http://www.fordification.com/forum/index.php

              http://www.fordification.com/


              **Something I started doing is to take a phone pic of the Data Plate on any donor vehicle, makes life much easier when the parts guy starts asking for a VIN #, as they will generally stipulate a VIN range, separating any parts changeup into a separate production date range/ vin # range)

              HTH
              James
              Last edited by Tubbed Pacecar; November 17, 2018, 09:38 PM.

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              • #52
                Thank you for the info.

                I have 75 F250 disk brakes and power steering on the truck now. Just like the info you provided on the F100s, I bought the complete suspension (I-beams, spindles, radius arms, caliper brackets, dust shields. This was the heavy duty F250 stuff with the big king pins and 2 piston calipers. They work OK but would like something better. The caliper pistons tend to stick and the result is pad drag and premature wear. I have rebuilt the calipers and replaced them with new Raybestos units and they still act the same. I don't drive the truck daily so I just assumed that some of the issues were from sitting.

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                • #53
                  cstmwgn: Well, if the factory F250 disc parts aren't getting it done, then yah, I guess you're going to have to "step it up".

                  Another thought: Being as the F350 is also Twin I beam & 8x6.5 BC, I wonder how much bigger the calipers & rotors are on them? A single wheel F350 front end should (theoretically) be a bolt in (again, if you use ALL of IT).....but if you are able to adapt the GM stuff (as mentioned in your other thread), that would be great, and being as it's a bunch newer, should have parts availability for years to come. If you go down that road, it would be worth documenting;)

                  James




                  Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
                  Thank you for the info.

                  I have 75 F250 disk brakes and power steering on the truck now. Just like the info you provided on the F100s, I bought the complete suspension (I-beams, spindles, radius arms, caliper brackets, dust shields. This was the heavy duty F250 stuff with the big king pins and 2 piston calipers. They work OK but would like something better. The caliper pistons tend to stick and the result is pad drag and premature wear. I have rebuilt the calipers and replaced them with new Raybestos units and they still act the same. I don't drive the truck daily so I just assumed that some of the issues were from sitting.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Remember that for the most part manufacturers buy their brakes from outside vendors and do not make them in-house. Eaton, Motor Wheel, and others provide these based on their own designs but built to the OEM's specs (bolt patterns, etc.). So brakes may be more interchangeable than one might think. Cstmwgn has the right idea - get some potential parts and see how they fit. We have a pretty good PnP here and I've done a fair bit of this kind of thing (like Mutt's clutch actuation bits) with trial parts coming from PnP for cheap.

                    Dan
                    Last edited by DanStokes; November 18, 2018, 01:21 PM.

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                    • #55
                      The best I can tell so far - it appears that all the manufactures (Ford, Chevy, Dodge) use the same housing bolt pattern for their rear disk brake caliper bracket / parking brake setup. The problem is that it is different from what my housing uses. The caliper bracket all by itself doesn't worry me that much. I am pretty sure I can build one (or have one made) pretty easy. The emergency brake assembly will be the more difficult to adapt. I printed a list of all trucks that use the same parking brake shoes as a starting list of potential donors. Now the challenge will be find one of them in our local yard to physically inspect.

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                      • #56
                        Well, was just looking @ a thread on fordification where the guy is wanting to lower his F250, and one of the responders mentioned the outfit in the link below....

                        https://lugnut4x4.com/product-category/rear/single/

                        Rear Brake Conversion Kits

                        Looking to upgrade the rear brakes on your truck from drum to disc? Or maybe add disc brakes to an axle for a custom build? We’ve got brake conversion kits for Dana 60, Dana 70, Dana 80, Eaton, 14 bolt, and Sterling 10.25 axles.
                        ================================================== ================================================== ==================================

                        As mentioned in this thread.....

                        http://www.fordification.com/forum/v...hp?f=5&t=88144


                        James

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by Tubbed Pacecar View Post
                          Well, was just looking @ a thread on fordification where the guy is wanting to lower his F250, and one of the responders mentioned the outfit in the link below....

                          https://lugnut4x4.com/product-category/rear/single/

                          Rear Brake Conversion Kits

                          Looking to upgrade the rear brakes on your truck from drum to disc? Or maybe add disc brakes to an axle for a custom build? We’ve got brake conversion kits for Dana 60, Dana 70, Dana 80, Eaton, 14 bolt, and Sterling 10.25 axles.
                          ================================================== ================================================== ==================================

                          As mentioned in this thread.....

                          http://www.fordification.com/forum/v...hp?f=5&t=88144


                          James
                          Thanks James

                          I will call them to get more info.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            use a transmission brake rather then drum brake.... makes life a lot easier.
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • #59
                              Looks like alot of nice progress going on there. Looks like another sweet ride by Allen and friends. Good job buddy!!!
                              Greg & Mendy Dayton, Ohio 2007LH 2008LH 2010LH 2011LH 2012 1st 2 stops 2013LH 2015 1st 2 stops2016LH 2017 first and last stops . 2018 LH ("It's better to be dead and cool than alive and uncool!! Harley Davidson!")

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                ooops

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                                I wonder if there is a cabriolet kit for a 66 F250?

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