During my searches I've run across more interest in info that just makes for more questions.
Apparently all 77-80 403 motors only had 5 bolt holes on original heads...
Since mine are definitely 10 bolt, that means earlier model 350 or 455 heads are on the motor. Since 350 heads help increase compression that is likely what is installed.
Now, how do I check to verify what heads so I can find the correct covers...
Working on getting new subframe connectors welded in place this weekend. Replacing these homemade 'connectors' with Gen II connectors from Pro-Touring fbody.
Last edited by Redline04; August 1, 2020, 11:39 AM.
During my searches I've run across more interest in info that just makes for more questions.
Apparently all 77-80 403 motors only had 5 bolt holes on original heads...
Since mine are definitely 10 bolt, that means earlier model 350 or 455 heads are on the motor. Since 350 heads help increase compression that is likely what is installed.
Now, how do I check to verify what heads so I can find the correct covers...
Fastest way to id oldsmobile cylinder heads is to look for a number or letter on the left lower corner by the #1 and #8 spark plugs. Oldsmobile used numbers for small block heads, and letters for big block heads. There is also a 6 digit casting number you above the center exhaust ports also. 4A on the left corner of this head IDs this as a late 70's 403 cylinder head.
Finally back to posting some updates on the T/A. Back about the time of my last posts on this project, several ppl at the shop got covid and the shop shut down for a while. My car got shelved again like a few others and time passed by.
Lots of time.
Fast forward to where we are now.
Found a set of old school M/T valve covers to replace the boogered Holley covers.
. Stripped, repainted & installed.
Leaving them satin black to match the car for now. Have a small issue with both covers having a hole plate knocked out. Only need one for the factory PCV valve, so using an oil fill cap to fill the extra hole until I find an acceptable, permanent solution.
The old Holley carb that came with the car was being a p.i.t.a, so I figured to try a Demon as a replacement. Not good on the TA. Even though the carb height was correct to fit under the shaker hood, the body of the carb was too wide.
Linkage binding on the Performer intake. Tried a small riser, but that made the carb too tall so that the hood would not close over the shaker
I ended up switching to a new Edelbrock as that fit well under the shaker & the linkage is good too.
All back together & running well now!
1st pic - attempting to fit the Demon...
2nd pic, Edelbrock & refinished M/T covers on. Tried to post a quick video clip of it running, but wrong format so it won’t post
Next step will be installing new Proforged tie rod ends & Idler...
Leaving them satin black to match the car for now. Have a small issue with both covers having a hole plate knocked out. Only need one for the factory PCV valve, so using an oil fill cap to fill the extra hole until I find an acceptable, permanent solution.
I don't know if you have the look you're after but an FYI - If you hit the ribs with a belt sander they'll pop out in aluminum and look spiffy. I've recoated them with clear wheel paint so you can clean them. Just a thought.
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