I like selectable lockers because on the road, a locking differential is usually a liability - especially when you have the e-nannies. They usually don't cost more, either, except that you need to wire a switch
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That's what I was thinking.
Sadly, I will not be doing anything interesting for a bit, last night I struck a large woodland animal as he was leaping across the road, so I'll need to spend some time just getting the truck back to how it was yesterday morning.
Not a huge amount of Damage, but a passenger fender, headlight, and misc. stuff will be needed.
Carry on
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Originally posted by mike343sharpstick View PostThat's what I was thinking.
Sadly, I will not be doing anything interesting for a bit, last night I struck a large woodland animal as he was leaping across the road, so I'll need to spend some time just getting the truck back to how it was yesterday morning.
Not a huge amount of Damage, but a passenger fender, headlight, and misc. stuff will be needed.
Carry onDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View PostI love those melting butt connectors
and voila
Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
74 Nova Project
66 Mustang GT Project
92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
79 Chevy Truck Project
1956 Cadillac Project
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
open flame.... you know, what they tell you not to do - that said, don't catch it on fire and it'll be fineOriginally posted by cstmwgn View Post
I use a heat gun - works pretty good but you can still scorch the sheathing if you get it too hot.Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
74 Nova Project
66 Mustang GT Project
92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
79 Chevy Truck Project
1956 Cadillac Project
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I have both kinds of melters... they make a special, heated air gun that does the same thing as open flame - to the point it can burn the coating - its problems are: it has a cord, it is NOT a good idea to clamp it between your legs, and the heat zone is larger so if you're practicing safe wire holding (fingers spaced as far apart as possible) you still can get toasting fingersDoing it all wrong since 1966
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I use a small Snap-On butane torch, or my butane soldering iron.
Decided the soldering iron was the safest bet when I had to repair a wire on the ECU when I installed the torque convertor controller on the Mitsu.
I had to repair a wire because I found the wrong one orignally, typical that the wire I needed would be green with red trace. I'm red/green colour blind
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Originally posted by irsa76 View PostI use a small Snap-On butane torch, or my butane soldering iron.
Decided the soldering iron was the safest bet when I had to repair a wire on the ECU when I installed the torque convertor controller on the Mitsu.
I had to repair a wire because I found the wrong one orignally, typical that the wire I needed would be green with red trace. I'm red/green colour blindDoing it all wrong since 1966
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updates.... first skid plates... last outing I destroyed the plastic one...
genuine GM.... nice bits
the holes
the coverage
I've had these parts for awhile - 1500 lb springs
after using the new center bolt to clamp the springs together... chop off the excess
my major concern was the bolts didn't seem long enough for a new leaf.... yet they were.... coolio
and now with its rake returned - more importantly, being able to haul 2 bikes
then started scoping out wiring
no
yep.... yes, this is blue-tooth enabled lighting.... it has switches but you can also control it with your phone (why? dunno, but it is a feature)
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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