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  • #16
    next will be get rid of the Denali shell, also sell the 85 Suburban. I may paint the suburban first, though (and fill the holes in the roof).

    point is eventually it gets done.

    then the 64 wagon at the same time as the Corvette.... then the Fiat, then the 50 Buick, then I'll celebrate my 100th birthday
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #17
      time to make some hinges



      big bolts



      and it hinges



      today was spent doing things like this - bracing a butt weld



      and moving the trailer to where I can flip it over



      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • #18
        Time to see if I can get this over without squishing me
        first, time to put some safety chain loops on


        Kinsey says I don't like what you're planning, I'm outta here

        she's not dumb



        nothing sketchy about this....




        safe


        this is the "work really hard to decide you're going to replace them"





        it tilts


        not shabby, the axle is about in the spot it would be with tires on it



        now time to finish up the welding, build the fenders, paint it, then use it.... and wire it, of course.... hopefully I'll paint it Sunday. - that simply requires getting it ready to wire and the running boards/fenders put on... now to decide what color.... I honestly don't know
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • #19
          Life must be tough for you SBG, how do you get through without a functioning procrastinate gland?
          Last edited by 65RHDEER; July 18, 2018, 12:52 AM.
          Tim
          Melbourne Australia

          65 Hardtop Impala, 70 GTS Monaro, 93 "80" Landcruiser

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          • #20
            A tip I've been told by numerous people is to paint a trailer white or yellow. That way it "should" be visible in the dark, certainly alot more visible than if it was black or dark blue.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by irsa76 View Post
              A tip I've been told by numerous people is to paint a trailer white or yellow. That way it "should" be visible in the dark, certainly alot more visible than if it was black or dark blue.
              It also won't be so hot to the touch - like mine is! That black is nasty in the sun.

              Dan

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              • #22
                Ours is black bedliner material....with led lighting.
                5 marker lamps on each side, 3 in the rear, and backup/taillights with a backup buzzer...the bedliner material is durable and slip resistant and hasn't faded/oxidized like the previous red paint...
                Patrick & Tammy
                - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                • #23
                  Thanks for the input. Dan, stop wearing your bikini when you're working on the trailer and you won't get burned... just sayin'

                  I'm leaning towards red - I know, nothing I own is red (at least I don't think so - I may have to review) but red is both visible but tends to hide bruises as well as black does. I won't paint anything yellow, yellow is for cowards
                  I've also thought about silver or grey but right now, rustoleum equipment red is the leading choice....
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • #24
                    I'm stewing on what color to do my trailer. If I make the frame black and the fenders my teal color it'll match the racing colors and the teal fenders would take care of the worst of the parts that heat up in the sun. I've puzzled about pulling the deck boards before I get it sandblasted - probably the best plan though a lot of the tech screw heads are hidden down in the wood grain. Probably nothing a Saws-All can't fix.

                    Dan

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                    • #25
                      I use star-drive, self-tapping deck screws (they're made for this) where you drill a 3/16 hole then drive the screw in... the benefit is drilling them out is pretty painless as the star, once stripped, becomes a great pilot hole
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • #26
                        Dan, just did new boards on mine.. Most boards came apart with a jack or saw.. Then PB Blaster and vicegrips for the bolts/screws My daughter took most of them off, broke a few.. Boards need to be the length you have.. Slide in from front to back then scooch them back a bit to get under that piece up front..
                        Could have ground the welds holding that plate on but one side was welded in, other side was not.. Other trailer did not have the sides welded in at all..
                        Came with PINE boards. Put in Douglas Fir..

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                        • #27
                          Ours doesn't have a wooden deck! Just the ramps and they are steel. That is why we decide to use the bed liner material throughout because it adds a cushion for the doors when you open them if they happen to touch the Fender! Also makes the whole works non skid, so we aren't burning rubber trying to get up the ramps. Steel painted ramps get really slick when wet!
                          Patrick & Tammy
                          - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
                            Came with PINE boards. Put in Douglas Fir..
                            Mine came with pressure treated 2X8's and they really are in OK shape so it will be possible to reuse them if I can get them off without totaling them. Pretty sure mine were installed as SBG described - we call those star-headed self tappers "tech screws" which comes from my EPA days.

                            Dan

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
                              Ours doesn't have a wooden deck! Just the ramps and they are steel. That is why we decide to use the bed liner material throughout because it adds a cushion for the doors when you open them if they happen to touch the Fender! Also makes the whole works non skid, so we aren't burning rubber trying to get up the ramps. Steel painted ramps get really slick when wet!
                              So does wood! Had a pair of 4X16 for a bit. Damn things too heavy and had to go in the truck..

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                              • #30
                                Understood.... our "ramps" that the car rides on go all the way up to the double channel slot that the front wheels drop into and have a matching narrower set that hook onto the rear that are 5 feet long and REALLY Friggin heavy....about 3-3 1/2 feet of air space between the two main ramps...nuttin but cross members....
                                Patrick & Tammy
                                - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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